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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Did I blow my timing belt?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_oregonloyale_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 06:51 PM

Ok hears the story........
My wife is driving down the road w/the A/C on @ 45-510 mph , ambient air temp is 90 degrees.
1st . car sputters
2nd. car has no acceleration and losses all power.
3rd. car turns over , has all electrical currents showing thumbs up , but the engine does not catch.
In fact when you try and turn it over , the starter turns the engine about 4 times , misses for just a split second and starts turning again.
I think the timing belt blew as since I purchased this vehicle 2 weeks ago , the people said they replaced the belts about 3 years ago. I have noticed oil leakage at the bottom of the timing belt covers and horrible valve clatter, as shown from my previous posts.
I have done all these other tune ups to the car before this happed
spark plugs , cap and rotor , fuel filter, tranny fluid, coolant flush, pvc valve, air filter, oil change.
Any thoughts ........?
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

#2 Guest_calebz_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 06:55 PM

45-510mph? Gee and I thought my soob was fast.:lol:

Pull the dist cap, turn the motor over.. if the rotor doesn't turn, drivers side belt is probably broken.

pass side one requires a visual inspection.. pull a couple of the bolts from the timing belt cover on that side, and look/stick your finger in there.. see if the belt is tight or slack

#3 Guest_korrupt66_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 07:17 PM

I just added this to your mmo post. If you live near NH i have a great subaru guy that can do all this work for aboput $300. Good luck! I went through this whole thing to. I have a 93 loyale that sounded like a diesel. I switched oils, filters,used mmo and other valve cleaners. I changed my oils three times before I found something that kind of worked. I used 10/40 castol high mileage and a wix filter. The only real fix was to change my oil pump and I suggest that if you change the oil pump you do the timing belts and the cam seals all at once and you should be good for another 50 to 60 thousand miles.

#4 Guest_GlCraigGT_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 07:48 PM

Timing belts are just an item that need to be replaced every so many miles. I belive the replacement interval is somewhere between 50k and 60k miles (using Subaru Belts). Sure some belts will last longer then that but others won't. If they were replaced 3 years ago then it's very possible for them to have enough miles on them to just crap out now.

#5 Guest_Adam N.D.J._*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 07:56 PM

The engine will still run with a blown passenger side belt, it just won't be happy about doing it. So your best bet is too pull off the dizzy cap. Could be that the bolt holding the rotor (ifn it's FI), could have rattled out and now the rotor is free spinning in there. Sounds like either problem. Lotsa luck. Catch ya Laters.

#6 Guest_MilesFox_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 11:19 PM

looks like time to replace your cam/crank/oil pump seals.

if you have oil on the belts it can weaken them, and ig you do a belt job you will already have it torn down to do such service. and the water pump too. sometimes a bad belt will look intact, i had one strip the notches off the belt, so a complete teardown will show you whats up. maybe you lost some teeth, and the cam will catch every so-many revolutions, causing the "hang up" as you crank it.

here is a tip: remove the clutch fan and radiator to make room for belt service. depending on your skills and if you have the right equipment, you may as well pull the motor: the time it takes to pull will well make up for the time it will take to do the belts with the motor in the car, doing seals and all.

#7 Guest_Flowmastered87GL_*

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Posted 15 August 2003 - 01:09 AM

As for the teeth coming off the belts.. that is due to improper tensioning of the belts. once they are on you are supposed to torque them to like `12 pounds (or something... its been a while) and THEN tighten the tensioner pullies!

If you just stick em on, then they like to eat teeth

#8 Guest_MilesFox_*

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Posted 15 August 2003 - 03:04 AM

what i'll do is, once the belts are on, i'll grab the cam sprocket by hand and turn it enough that the top side of the belt is taut, and then release the tensioner. as long as there is no slack on the side of teh belt that is pulling off the crank sprocket yer good.

my bad teeth were a case of re-using old timing belts from unbeknownst motors

#9 Guest_oobnuker_*

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Posted 15 August 2003 - 05:47 AM

I can't stress enough - because it happened to me too many times - check that the set screw that holds the rotor onto the distributor shaft is there. If not the rotor free-wheels inside the cap, and every now and then will get you a spark - just like you're describing, but will never run the engine.

It's a 10 minute fix, but it will leave you dead if you don't know to look.

#10 Guest_oregonloyale_*

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Posted 15 August 2003 - 09:40 AM

Thanx all, and it was the stupid little screw holding the dist rotor in place.
Still gonna do the belts and seals next month ..
I will try and document the process and post it on a web page Ill be building.
Im gonna do this job with the engine in the car, whooo!:eek:

#11 Guest_oobnuker_*

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Posted 15 August 2003 - 10:48 AM

Carry the little screwdriver that you used to fix it with the car. My experience was until I replaced the distributor, I could not keep that screw in for the life of me. Tried a new screw and everything. I imagine you could replace just the top of the shaft there or possible drill and tap a new hole or use a larger screw. All I know is that knowing what it was helped a lot, because it happened to me about 6 times in the span of a couple of weeks. Once right in front of the local police department...That was interesting.




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