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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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ea82 spfi- overheating.. whats the prob?


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12 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Ratty2Subaru_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 02:37 AM

so its an ea82 spfi, with a single row radiator, and it runs ok, it takes a while to get warm, then once it gets warm it keeps creeping up to the red zone.. hasn't gotten there yet- but gets close (and it boils off the H20 so i need to refill after a long hot drive)
today when I was driving it, and stopped, i shut off the car, then turned the key to the on pos. and it sounded like the cooling fan was not running... and so i shut it all off, and opened the hood, and felt the radiator, the side closest to the themostat (upper hose) was hot, but the upper area near the fill spout was cold, and so was the hose on the side with the water pump, and the bottom of the radiator was also hot..
it seemed to have boiled the water away?? I know i am supposed to add the green or orange stuff to raise the boiling point, but I am just testing right now... (dont want to waste any antifreeze! its expensive to just leak all over the place :lol: )

does this sound like a faulty thermostat, a clogged radiator or a non-functional fan/fan controller?? I will hardwire the fan to the ignition to start out with, cause it probably wont hurt it to do that...
and I will also replace the thermostat with a new 165 deg. one...
but does it seem like the radiator is bad?
btw, there is no AC equip on this car... (nothing blocking the rad, and no 2nd fan either)

thanks-

#2 Guest_rXSNRG_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 10:11 AM

It's usually the radiator that gradually gets plugged due to the electrolosis that takes place with the aluminum engine. Some recomend distilled water. I've replaced a number of radiators and solved this same problem. I did have that problem once that was caused by a sticky thermo, I found out AFTER I replaced the radiator.

BTW, if you can get your hand on the radiator when it's warm, lay your hand on it flat and run it across as much of the radiator as you can. The parts of the radiator that are hot are cooling and the places that are cool are plugged. This will give you a quick reference to the % of your radiator that's plugged (probably most of it).

#3 Guest_Flowmastered87GL_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 11:42 AM

Ummmm I would be careful about running straight water. My old mechanic said running straight water = more likely to blow a head gasket :(

I say just get a double row, did marvels for my 87 turbowagon (it would creep up NEAR the red also when driving around)

#4 Guest_Ratty2Subaru_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 04:06 PM

well, then I guess I need to buy a double row! anyone got one F/S??? or trade???

thanks

#5 Guest_edrach_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 06:41 PM

Which car is this for? The white wagon or the black beast?

#6 Guest_Ratty2Subaru_*

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Posted 12 August 2003 - 12:37 AM

white wagon.. unfortunatly, today I was checking the fluids before adventuring out, and discovered a mass amount of foamy light brown in the oil... all over the cap and the dipstick! :mad:

so i guess I will need a radiator, a termostat, AND head gaskets now... :rolleyes:

so much for having a running wagon! (arrrrG!!!)

thanks for the info though!

#7 Guest_rXSNRG_*

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Posted 12 August 2003 - 05:42 PM

Doh! That SUCKS:(

#8 Guest_xenongod_*

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Posted 13 August 2003 - 11:13 AM

One thing to add about the type of coolant you are using...the orange/pink coolant is called Dex-cool...invented and produced by GM and first used in Cadillacs...and now used in a lot of the newer cars. You should not mix it with the green coolant...use one or the other 100% with a 50/50 mix with water...plus...if you do use Dex-cool...make sure you add in the water pump luburicant if your pump is make out of aluminum...it's called "carpenter's block" and comes in orange/brown cubes....crush up a cube or two and install with the Dex-cool...otherwise you are looking at a new water pump...just my cent or two.:smokin:

#9 Guest_crazy man scooby_*

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Posted 13 August 2003 - 04:36 PM

for pluged rads i would try a two part flush the acid and nutralizer type. to keep it from get pluged after that run a wire from the block to the rad that will stop the electrolisist.

#10 Guest_bbbs53_*

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Posted 13 August 2003 - 10:59 PM

Hi, as has been posted before and I, along with many others will agree, www.radiators.com. Best price, unbelievable service, Bradd

#11 Guest_archemitis_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 10:04 AM

in my experience with radiators here in minnesota, they tend to fall apart and turn into pure oxidation which doesnt conduct heat. the copper goes to crap with all the salt. but the aluminum ones work great, and dont corode at all compared to copper. if you can find a stock aluminum one(they had alot of them) it will work great for alot less from a junkyard. never seen a plugged one.

#12 Guest_EmmCeeBee_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 10:35 AM

I just bought a 2-row Silla -- the shop's in Sweet Home, OR, but he dropped-shipped it from the warehouse. $74 including shipping. That's not a typo...

I like the Silla 'cause it's hefty, much heavier-gauge brass than the other makes I looked at. It arrived in one piece with no dings (!!) All holes and bolts were positioned properly. I haven't installed it yet, though, I'm about halfway through with the engine work.

The shop is Radiator Supply House, 1-877-615-3002. I talked to Ron.

Just a satisfied customer.

-- Mark

#13 Guest_archemitis_*

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Posted 14 August 2003 - 03:04 PM

wow... thats only double junkyard pricing:eek:




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