Jump to content

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

T-belt changing troubles

  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_alexk02_*

  • Guests

Posted 08 July 2003 - 10:45 AM

While taking off the T-belt cover about one-third of the bolts holding the front and back covers together ended up destroying the rear cover. The bolts rusted to the threaded anchors imbedded in the plastic rear cover, and no amount of WD40 could free them. Moreover, the plastic became brittle (the car is 95 Brighton with 183K mi) so turning the bolts turned the anchors, this splitting the cover in those places. OK, so the rear covers had to be replaced. The head of one of the bolts, the one right under the power steering reservoir that attaches the cover to the engine block (I think) got rounded off because of rust (I used a hex socket, but still) and refuses to budge. It is a very difficult place to get to in order to put anything like a vice-grip or an open-end wrench on it. I gave up - had it towed to a mechanic :mad:
Any recommendation to prevent this from happening or how to deal with it?


Thanks to Frag and others on suggestions: removing the radiator is easy and quick and makes MUCH more room for work. Also his method of removing crankshaft pulley bolt (putting the car in 5th gear and standing in brakes) worked great.

#2 Guest_Tolerance02_*

  • Guests

Posted 08 July 2003 - 02:22 PM

Metal bolt tread in the more soft aluminum tread causes the problem. A good trick is using a solid pen driver and a hammer and hit in one straight line to the bolt head before you use the wrench or vise grip. This makes that verry little move in the tread and the bolt will kome loose much more easy.


#3 Guest_St Nickolas_*

Guest_St Nickolas_*
  • Guests

Posted 09 July 2003 - 10:22 AM

Soaking with a rust penetrant well ahead of time (and several times) will take care of some of them. WD-40 won't help near as often. Once they are out, use a healthy dose of anti-seize before they go back in. I've opted not to tighten them much, but to put a dab of Permatex gasket maker on the head of the bolt and the cover to keep them from vibrating out.

Other alternatives? If the nut breaks loose from the plastic, I've heated the bolt/nut with a soldering gun. This melts the plastic and allows nut to be 'welded' back into the rear cover.

For those where the nut isn't going back in, I've used a zip tie instead of a bolt. The timing belt cover is to keep rocks and the like out, and a zip tie can accomplish this.


#4 Guest_alexk02_*

  • Guests

Posted 09 July 2003 - 01:24 PM

Guys, thanks a lot for suggestions.


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users