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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/23/21 in Posts

  1. If I get a full time job and a Subaru again (would like to on both counts) I will donate. Unfortunately we've been furloughed/part time since last year due to the pandemic. Everything in my state has opened up, pretty much back to normal so I don't expect anything positive with the company I'm with. I realize sites like this are very beneficial. I wish I had more automotive mechanical abilities and experience so I could contribute more in the way of beneficial posts.
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  2. No apology needed. I might be wasting your time on brakes. I’d probably address and look over the brakes anyway even if I was sure it’s the bearings. so it’s no time loss to address the brakes first and I might diagnose or avoid bearings by doing so. Bearings usually are a low growl that disappears around very sharp turns (usually only one direction right or left, not both) at speed, and brakes more high pitched squeal. But they can vary and overlap symptoms too. That inner pad is even low enough I wonder if it could be noisy depending on quality and what the other side of the pad looks like we can’t see - maybe it’s warn even more on the side opppsote the photo? That’s not uncommon for the inner brake pad to wear more than the outer, but that is an excessive difference in thickness. I’d see if the pins are hanging, pin bushing condition, and pad movement in clips. It’s rarely the calipers, like almost never. Not impossible, but I’ve only seen one Subaru caliper failure and about 50 pin, bushing, clip, rotor rust, bent backing plate issues.. I’d be surprised if it’s the caliper and wouldnt suspect it until I rule out other things first.
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  3. heat and noise could also be seized caliper pins. Need to diagnose it. 2001 legacy/Outback is not press in. 90s legacy/ Outback or 2001 Impreza/Forster are press in. But not 2001 legacy. buy a bearing assembly that includes the hub. It unbolts, knock it out, bolt the new one on No special bolts or tools. Unbolt and bolt on. Very quick and easy.....except the assembly can be hard to remove due to rust/corrosion. I live in the rust belt and torch the &’jk!$&’m out of it if needed. If you’ve got attention to detail/intuitiveness and get creative with hammers and chisels and extensions with well placed blows it’ll also eventually come out. But torch is the way if it’s stuck or rust/corrosion.
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