Steve530
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Posts posted by Steve530
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i had a set of ceramic pads on my 99 dodge avenger and i used to drive it really hard(gas,brakes,etc) i found that the rotors got cooked after about a month.not to mention they turned black.
if i ever go ceramic again,i'm gonna also go with slotted/drilled rotors so i don't cook a set of stock legacy rotors.
What brand of pads were those, Bert. Maybe all ceramic pads are equal, but some are more equal than others.
I've had ceramic pads on my BMW for about a year with no problems. No squeal, not much dust, and not rotor damage as far as I can tell.
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... Also, the only issue I've had with this car is a persistant high pitched squeak from the front brakes, I've tried the "stops squeak" stuff on the pads, which helped briefly, are there any long term fixes out there? ...
The brake hardware...I'm not sure what to call the little things that fit over the pads...are the necessary, and if so, is that a dealer only part?...
Is there any hazard in replacing the front brakes/ rotors without doing the rears at the same time?
Jared, those things that fit over the pads are anti-squeal shims. If those are missing, putting those in may help with the squeal. The rotors will not cause squeal. The squeal is from the pads moving around in the caliper.
Replacing the front rotors and pads without replacing the rear rotors and pads is not a problem. Most of the braking comes power from the front by design, and most of the wear occurs there, too. Most cars I've dealt with wear out the fronts about twice as fast as the front.
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Ceramic brakes are hard on the rotors. Also they work best when hot, this is very disconcerting the first time you step on the brake pedal, especially in colder climates. The Ceramic Brake Pads tend to overheat and warp factory rotors. Most Sites i have seen on this subject have stated that they work well with beefier aftermarket rotors, but tend to warp the factory rotors.
Personally i would just use semi-metalic as i wouldnt want to risk warping the rotors.
Food for thought
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakecomments_all.jsp?make=EBC&model=Greenstuff+brake+pads&group=null
and
http://naioa.com/impalabb/viewtopic.php?t=210&sid=25b4803f83a6b08d9ba2833a5c824c25
and
http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html
Also make sure you are buying TRUE ceramic brake pads
From the last link:
CeramicCeramic pads still have metal fibers (about 15% vs. about 40% for semi-metallic) but they are copper instead of steel and therefore cause less wear and transfer heat better. They don't fade as easily as other pads, cool faster, last longer, and are effectively silent, as the sound they genereate is outside of the human range of hearing. Dogs will go crazy thought. The dust created by ceramic pads is also very light in color so your wheels look cleaner.I've never heard that ceramic pads cause more rotor wear or overheat the rotors more than other pads.
I have Akebono ceramic pads on my BMW and they are great. Very light colored dust and not much of it. Good initial bite with no fade in normal driving and very, very good modulation. IMHO, these are as good as the stock Jurid pads.
Aren't the OEM pads on the 97 Legacy OBW ceramic?
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that sounds about right...
Thanks.
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your local friendly pull a part or junk yard would be a good place..
That's a good idea. Do you know which years will fit the 97? I assume it's about 96-98.
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Sub fan is dead. Are there any sources besides the dealer for the assembly or the motor if it is replacable?
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I didn't add refrigerant because the cheap pressure gauge that came with the can showed it as already too high, in the red. I guess I could hook the gauge up to the high side and get a reading.
Is the sub-fan running? If that does not run the pressure gets too high at idle and the high pressure opens and stops the compressor.
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Now that the hot weather has broken, I was thinking of cleaning and conditioning the leather seats in our Outback Wagon.
Any suggestions or results of a particular product from anyone would be appreciated.
Also, any helpful techniques or tricks to make the job "better" (read that as easier).
They haven’t been cleaned since new in 2001.
:-\
I use Leatherique Rejuvinating Oil and Pristine Clean on my BMW and my wife's 97 OBW. It is expensive, but it is by far the best product I've used for leather.
Lexol is my second choice. IMHO, it does not condition the leather as well as Leatherique.
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Since it's a four stroke, it would pump that much air in TWO revolutions, so divide the airflow figure by two...
You still end up with a reasonable flow rate for the engine.
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Thanks for that link. I see what I'm dealing with. No prob at all.
But now I find THIS out:
The reason my folks called Hertz in the first place was that the brake pedal is going almost to the floor. The Hertz service dept. told them that it just needs pads.
Thats not right is it? As pads wear, the system should self adjust, right? I suspect something else is going on. Air in brake line, or leak in system and low on fluid? Or problem with Master cyl?
Thanks guys,
Pyro
Edit after talking to my folks this AM: I don't know why I thought that hydrolic disk brakes "self adjusted", and that the pedal would stay in the same place as the pads wore, just thought so, maybe something I heard somewhere.
But my dad tells me in his "03 Subaru Outback owners manual, it says that when the pedal is getting close to the floor, it's time to renew the pads. Hmmmm. I must have been wrong. We'll install new pads and see what happens.
No, I think you're right that disc brakes are self adjusting. As the pads wear the pistons extend to make up the difference in pad thickness. The extra space behind the piston is then occupied by brake fluid and the level in the reservoir drops.
The master cylinder piston is open to the reservoir for part of its travel, so the fluid from the reservior is pushed into the lines. If not all of that fluid returns because of pad wear, the difference is made up from the reservoir. So the height of the brake pedal should not change.
I wonder what the manual says, exactly. If it does state that a low pedal is caused by worn pads, please let me know.
My guess is that there is air in the system and it need to be bled.
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How will that help his problem :-P
Don't yank by the wire...pull by the part on the plug.
And give it a twist as you pull on it.
When you install the wires on the plugs, put a little dielectric grease inside the boot. It'll come off easier next time.
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I only have one question about the test. Is 350CFM representative of the duramax diesel's actual flow? A filter of X size when at low flow rate would show much less restriction for the amount of dirt trapped than at higher flow rates. I'm not disagreeing with the results exactly, I'm jus curious. It works just like a restrictor plate, at a low flow you don't know it's there, at higher flow you notice.
Keith
I found the Duramax displacement is 475.9 cu. in.
475.9 in^3 * (1ft^3/1728 in^3)= 0.2754 ft^3, which is the amount of air (and fuel) used in 1 revolution.
(350 ft^3/minute) / (0.2754 ft^3/ revolution) = 1271 rpm
So a duramax diesel engine at 1271 rpm would intake about 350 CFM. My guess is that 1271 rpm is above idle on that enigne and is probably a reasonable test.
Did I do the math right?
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Thanks for the info and advice.
I have read somewhere in one of the Subaru forums that the clutch has to be "gravity" bled. Is that correct and does that change the procedure?
For example to you open the bleed point a little and leave it for say an hour?
I have not read that you need to gravity bleed the clutch, but yes that would change the procedure.
You are correct that all that would be necessary is to open the slave cylinder blled valve and let the fluid drain, AFAIK. I would open the bleed valve wide and carefully monitor the progress to assure that the reservoir did not run dry, at least until you are sure how fast that would happen.
I think I would probably run some fluid through there for a while and then close the valve and check the operation. If it is not working as it should, try it again.
I wonder why you would need to gravity bleed a Subaru slave cylinder?
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On my 97 OBW I have some dim headlight issues, it is not because of the bulbs but from what I can tell its from the fact that the headlamp unit casing itself is just old and dirty. I was wondering if anyone here has any tricks on how to clean these things? It has become quite annoying lately because at times I have to drive with my high beams on. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance:)
Meg's #17 and #10. Best to use a polisher if you have one.
Another trick is to use metal polish applied by hand.
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What is the use of the scoop on the 96-99 Outbacks? It doesn't feed anywhere near the intake.
I'm pretty sure the scoop is there to attract girls.
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Have a 99 Subaru Legacy wagon. Check Engine light is on. So I went to Auto Zone where they will read the diagnotic code for free. The code was read as P1133 with the message "Fuel Air Mixture". (Im assuming they knew how to do it right)
Previously the check engine light has occasionally gone on when the gas tank got down to 3/4 full but I could get the light to go off by disconnecting the battery for a minute but now that doesnt work.
Any thoughts????????
A quick search turned up this webpage http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/.
I have no idea if it is correct, but there is not a P1133 code listed for Subaru. But the codes around it indicate a failure of the O2 sensor in front of the catalytic convertor. As someone mentioned, this is the sensor that the ECU uses to control the fuel mixture.
So my guess is that the front O2 sensor is bad.
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Outback Legacy 97, 109k miles, new clutch (104k)
I have the infamous sticking clutch pedal problem when its hot and plan to replace the slave cylinder as per the TSB on the subject. (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041))
Since I had a new clutch I don't need to put new fluid in, but have a few questions since I never did anything like this before?
1) can I replace the slave and hose without spilling fluid everywhere?
2) can I bleed the system, after changing the slave and hose, by myself?
3) what is the best way to do the bleed?
4) should I bite the bullet and get new master cylinder too?
TIA
I've done this on several cars, but never a Subaru, so my answers should be viewed in that light.
1) probably not. It may help to use the bleed screw cap to cover male fittings and a golf tee to plug hoses.
2) Not without a special device. I use a Motive power bleeder. There are also vacuum bleeders. Without these you'll need someone to pump the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed valve.
3) a. Top up the master cylinder reservoir.
b. Attach hose to bleed valve into suitable container.
c. Press down on clutch pedal.
d. Open bleed valve.
e. Monitor flow for bubbles, if none go to i.
f. Close bleeder valve.
g. Release clutch pedal.
h. Go to c.
i. Done. Make sure reservoir is full.
4) In my experience, if you replace just the slave, the master cylinder will blow out within a year becuase the new component can hold more pressure than the other. This may not be true of Subarus.
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scottbaru makes a good point... it believe it is because of the e-brake... now on your wifes new car the e-brake is in the rear... unlike the old subies... now the turning thing may have to be used on the rear just because of the e-brake...
But! i also think that the e-brake doesn't use the rear disc... i recall somebody saying this... the e-brake has a seperate small drum brake inside/behind/somewhere the disc brake... its the same on isuzus...
now i'm all interested... my does our 01 legacy have to be at the airport waiting for my mom to come back from salt lake...
i miss the legacy... oh and my mom...
I can confirm that the rear brakes on my wife's 97 Legacy Outback has dual piston calipers and a seperate set of cable operated brake shoes.
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I prefer a pair of huge Channellock (slip-joint) pliers. If you don't have one, buy one, they're one of the most versatile tools you can own.
I use channellocks, too.
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I paid $144 for both front and back pads at the dealer for my 96 Outback. Not to bad...better than replacing pads every 10,000 miles :-x
Yea, The don't dust, feel good, and stop the car well.
FWIW, I paid about $90 for the front set of Akebono ProACT ceramic pads that I installed on the front of my BMW 530. So $144 is about right.
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Its ceramic.
Thanks. They are good pads. Well worth the money, IMHO.
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Does anyone use a Motive Powerbleeder?
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Use Subaru pads...don't skimp on that...they are good pads and last a long time.
Use some anti-squeel paste or whatever...
its pretty simple...good luck!
Does anyone know who makes the OEM pads and what the compostion is?
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motor could be burnt up.. have you tried connecting it straight to the battery? Also.. there is more than one "fan" fuse.. wish i could offer you more advice.. only problems I've ever had with fans was either the fuse or the motor was burnt out.
Thanks. I'll test the fan.
Anyone know a good source for these parts?
Brake Questions??
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I guess you mean that they are warped, not out of round. I suppose this is possible, but I think that the warped rotors would be more noticable as a pedal pulsation.
Eiher way, the fix is the same. Ant-squeal shims and compound.
BTW, I use anti-sieze compound on the backs of the pads. Works great and you have to have it around, anyway.