[Using the turbo gasket to fix the 2.5 head leak]

I don't know. I am using the 2.5 turbo gasket as recommended here. Seems all of those that recommend the turbo gasket have had no further issues.

[Using the turbo gasket to fix the 2.5 head leak]

Good call Miles. I went with the oe specs for the oe heads and have had no issues. Thanks :cool:

[Using the turbo gasket to fix the 2.5 head leak]

Nice gasket, multi layered. Any special preparations in using this gasket?

 

Are the torque values and sequence the same as using the stock single layered gaskets for the n/a engine?

 

I found it often mentioned to use this gasket but no accompanied details. It would appear the STi installation has a different procedure.

 

I tried a search but can't seem to find the info I need.

[Cam seal question 2000 EJ 2.5]

Thanks GD that was quick.

[Cam seal question 2000 EJ 2.5]

I have a 2000 Outback with the EJ251 single cams. Are the cam seals installed close to flush with the face of the housing like the crank seal and RMS or deeper into the housing?

 

 

Thank you. :cool:

[Cheap repair manual]

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Repair%20Instructions--/

[Front Hub Issue]

Well I did reassemble the car and it drives fine. It's quiet, no noise or vibration. They probably shortened the life of the bearing but it's not a daily driver so hopefully I get a couple of years out of it.

 

Thanks fella's.

 

I was done with them the minute the manager tried to tell me the bearing was bad as if I had no idea of it's condition beforehand. Bet the pull that trick on many a customer.

 

 

I should print out the post and show them.

[Front Hub Issue]

gg,

 

Yeah I wasn't pleased that they even messed with the hub but the guy said he needed a little space to work on the BJ. I'll also pull the other front tire and see how the hubs compare and then again when fully assembled.

 

Hopefully no dirt got in there while it was pressed out. It does rotate smoothly.

 

 

Thanks as always gg.

[Front Hub Issue]

2000 Outback

 

I had to pull the knuckle to get the lower ball joint pressed out (rusted in there big time). While at the shop they pressed out my hub a bit to get to the ball joint then forgot to press the hub back in completely (about 1/2" out). the desk guy tried to tell me the bearing was bad but I knew it was fine when I dropped it off. He said fine he would replace the bearing at no charge. He then took the knuckle back into the shop and the mechanic came out said the bearing was fine and tried to tell me to put the knuckle on the car and 'pull" the hub on with the axle nut . I said not acceptable I can't believe you would even suggest that. Then he said he would press the hub back into the knuckle. When they returned it to me it seemed ok but there's a tiny bit of play in the hub and I don't know if that was normal or not I mean it's very minute the amount of play but I did want to check here with you guys before I go through the work of putting the car back together. They also said if I had any problems to bring it back. lol. Like it's a 5 minute job.

 

The seal looked okay. Is there any problem with pressing out the hub a bit and then pressing it back in again? Is there any amount of play within tolerance?

[Connecter under dash driver side (w/pic)]

Thanks.

 

I have scanning software I use for the Suby codes I was just curious about the connection.

[Connecter under dash driver side (w/pic)]

This connection is open under the driver side dash. The car is a '00 Outback sedan. Does anyone here recognize the connection and what it goes to?

 

[Knuckle 99A vs 99Y differences?]

Installed just fine.

 

The tone rings are on the axle.

 

Thanks

[Knuckle 99A vs 99Y differences?]

I picked up a used knuckle today and noticed that it has a different part number than the one I removed. They look identical other than that. Does anyone know what the difference is between the two? I have a 2000 OB sedan and there was a parts change over with a 11/99 and before then a 12/99 and after date. My car door sticker has a manufacturing date of 11/99.

[Front axle procedure for early EJ series]

The knuckle version worked great. I removed the 14mm bolt then put my jack underneath the rotor to keep the suspension from moving and then pryed between the knuckle and the arm with a screwdriver and it came apart quite easily. I also removed the sway bar link from the lower arm to manuever the assembly. The old axle slid out smooth as butter. The new axle (GCK Autozone) went in just as easily. An extra hand comes in handy to hold the hub assembly out and forward a bit while sliding the new axle into postion. This took less than an hour thanks to the tips I read in this thread. I was dreading this job too.

[Front axle procedure for early EJ series]

Great timing on the write up fella's. My sons 93 Imprezza needs the axle replaced and I will start this tomorrow. I will try the knuckle version first and see where that gets me.