[AC spinning but not cooling]

Well I checked pressure again today and it was low. I think the system had to cycle the fluid through it. I added more today to bring it up to pressure and was blessed with wonderful coldness. Today was the first time in two weeks that I've driven with all the windows rolled up and the radio turned down. It was really nice. Thanks again for all the feedback.

 

Renny

[AC spinning but not cooling]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll pick up a new receiver dryer. How exactly does one flush the system? I'll go get the freon sucked back out but what then?

 

Renny

[AC spinning but not cooling]

It's been in the high 90s here all week and I had no AC. I jumpered the clutch just to see if the compressor turned and it turned fine. I checked the system pressure and there was none so using one of those r134 conversion kits I repressurized it but I think there may be some sort of blockage as it got to operating pressure with just one can. So now the ac switch will turn the clutch on and spin the compressor but I get no cold air out of the system. Any thoughts on what may be going on? The AC compressor failures I've dealt with in the past have all been of the frozen compressor belt sqealing type. Another thing I noticed is that when the clutch engaged there didn't seem to be any noticiable difference on the engine load? Do AC compressors fail and spin more freely? Please let me know if you have any ideas.

 

Thanks

Renny

[Got drunk and passed DEQ]

Thanks I think I'll just keep this close to stock. I've got my other toy if I feel the need for speed. I would like to look at some of those other cars - I hear theres one in town here. I may go the lifted rally dirt sorta thing??

 

 

 

Thanks

Renny

[Got drunk and passed DEQ]

Thanks good to know. I guess I'll just keep this the winter and offroad fun car and be happy it has a little pep. Btw I was looking at some pictures from different cars on here. My car as what looks like a single port head but I've seen some 87s that have what look like dual port heads. Are those better heads and are they interchangable with the heads on my car - 86 gl turbo?

 

Thanks

Renny

[Got drunk and passed DEQ]

That's probably about 25 to 30% actually. There's at least a gallon left when the light comes on - probably closer to 2 actually.

 

I'm in West Linn too - interesting.

 

BTW, there's no need to go through DEQ. None of mine do - I have mine registered to Vernonia. Any address outside the test area will work. Woodburn is probably closest.

 

GD

 

Yeah that was my next consideration, if this failed and then a new cat/downpipe didn't fix it. Thanks for the info about how much is left when the light comes on. That's good to know. West linn also cool. The normal car I'm into is volvos but since I've bought this car I'm really coming to like these. How fast has anyone made an ea82T go and what did it take to get there? I currently own a 13 sec volvo that should be in the 12s by the end of the summer. As fun as this subbie is to drive I miss the power of my brick. BTW it seems I"ve moved into the land of volvos and subarus.. got ta love it..

 

Thanks

Renny

[5-lug swap, Stage3 Clutch, AWD Conver. DONE!]

I doubt that any difference in the booster would cause any issue beyond a different feel to the pedal. Once you get in it and drive around, you will know how hard you need to press the pedal to stop; if you have to apply too much pressure, then you know you need a larger booster (you wussy, just stand on 'em!)

 

Personally, I have always wondered if one could just install a hugeass master cylinder (thinking like, 2 1/2 inches) and forego the whole power brake thing entirely.. I havent really talked about it to anyone with a BETTER knowledge than mine in the field of fluid dynamics, though.. and I only know just enough to start getting me into trouble. I am unsure if a larger bore cylinder would actually solve the problem. It might also take a cylinder with a longer stroke, and THAT may be impractical.. which would explain why auto engineers just use a vacuum booster, rather than these other ideas that I have that seem like such better solutions...

 

any thoughts on THAT?

 

Hi I'm somewhat new to the board but not to cars. If my understanding is correct bigger master cylinders equal more not less pedal effort. Fuild dynamics states that pressure per square inch is the same everywhere in a closed system so if you push 50 lbs of effort at a half a square inch of master cylinder piston vs a 1 square inch piston (numbers used for simplification) you get twice the pressure against the caliper pistons on the small master cylinder. The reason for needing a bigger master cylinder comes when you just cant push enough fluid to move the caliper pistons. If you have to go up you still want to keep the mc piston as small as you can.

 

Least wise that's what I recall. Btw that rocks. I live in West Linn and would love to see that beast in person one of these days. What does she turn at the track..??

 

Thanks

Renny

[Got drunk and passed DEQ]

Well my car did. 50% blood ah I mean fuel/alchol level. I took the 86 Subie in for the 4th time to try and pass DEQ. Last three tries were miserable failures. I had read somewhere that you could just run your car on a 50/50 mix of gas and denatured alcohol to pass. So I ran the car down to near empty - got the little warning light lit- added a gallon of gas and a gallon of denatured alcohol and drove it as hard as I could get away with all the way to deq. Car passed with flying colors. HC standard 220 - subie 65, CO standard 1 - subie .0517. Afterwards went to the nearest gas station and filled it up. Tech at DEQ was a amazed a car that old ran so clean. Funny thing is this car needs a new cat and the mixture leaned out but it still passed as uber clean. Now I can build my cat/downpipe at my liesure. The GL is legally back on the road :clap:

 

Renny

[Trying to smog it]

Have you done the usual, tune up, new O2 sensor, air filter, etc??

I can't help with the MAF adjustment, but I know you can't swap the MAF with a hot wire one.

Maybe your catalityc converter is toast???

Also look for exhaust leaks in the uppipe(between the cylinder heads and the turbo) and turbo gasket exhaust leaks as well. If you have a leak, it can actually pull in clean cool air and throw off the reading at the O2, tricking your ECM to run a bit rich to compensate.

 

Thanks I did the Tuneup, haven't done the 02 but I don't think that's it as it's running too well otherwise. Thanks for the tip on the up pipe, I'll check that. Also I haven't done the cat yet. I did pull another one off at the pick and pull. Was gonna use it and some tubing and just fab up another downpipe with cat. Be nice to go 3" there but I need to get it to pass smog first.

 

Thanks

Renny

[Trying to smog it]

I've got an 86gl Turbo and I have not given up trying to smog it. She runs great but won't pass smog. Essentially it's running too rich. We've swapped the amm but the result is the same. The AMM that is on this is the older vane type one I think and it looks the the set screw on the top was uncovered and someone messed with the mixture. I'm trying to see if it's possible to use the stock O2 sensor, a voltmeter and this set screw to get this thing into stoich. Has anyone done this and if so how. Is it even possible? I have access to a wideband but that means dissassembling the whole thing as it's hard wired into my other car? If picks of the stock amm will help I'll try to get some tonight? Also does anyone know if it's possible to switch over to the hotwire amm used on the later efi systems?

 

Please lemme know

 

Thanks

Renny

[Air Flow Sensor]

In the volvo turbo world we do larger amm and larger injectors. If the two are balanced the ecu doesn't know the difference in open loop mode and in closed loop it's mosty dependant on the o2 sensor. My volvo I went from a 2.5" to a 3" AMM, about a 40% area increase, and from 38#/hr to 58#/hr injectors 32% increase in flow but with a little additional fuel pressure it's about balanced. With this I'm good to 18lbs boost. Would this work with Subarus? Its a nice way to run more boost and have it still get metered some what efficiently.

 

Thanks

Renny

[Crazy Idea altering cam timing, might work]

Here's my crazy idea.

In my pursuit of increasing low end torque for offroad lugging capability, here's an idea that could work:

Rotate one camshaft 180 degrees and then alter ignition to fire that side at the proper time when it is ready. This would in effect change the firing order from the stock evenly spaced 1-3-2-4 to an overlapped order like 1/2-3/4-x-x.

What that would mean is cylinders 1 and 2 would fire at the same time followed by 3 and 4 firing at the same time followed by 2 dead strokes. It would sound like Bang-Bang-Pause-Pause. In operation it would run kinda like a small tractor, but during the firing strokes it would effectively have a surge of increased torque followed by a lag. This should allow the engine to lug at a slower rpm and not stall as easy. It may also need a heavier flywheel to keep it idling or lugging right.

 

Rotating the camshaft would be easy and I think the fuel intake and exhaust would handle it ok. The real challenge may be in altering the distributor by modifying the rotating sensor to only 2 lobes and then to somehow split the spark so it could fire two sparkplugs at the same time.

 

Sounds crazy I know, but i bet it would be fun to try.

 

Rollie

 

If you could get opposing cylinders to fire simultaneously it might not shake itself to death but you'd need a whopping flywheel and a big balancer. Truthfully having just a whopping flywheel will help with lowend torque without going to the harley like two cylinder running. If you went stand alone coil on cylinder ignition or wasted spark you wouldn't have to worry about fabbing a double ended rotor - not sure that would even work as the spark would end up going to the cylinder with the least resistance. So I think you'd have go go with a coil on/wasted spark.

 

I'd be interesting and anything is possible but not sure that the ROI is there.

 

Thanks

Renny

[Time to play...boooost!]

Hi I'm new to the board but I'm active on the Turbobricks board - a Turbo volvo site. I've been reading up and I ran across this post. I know it's an older post but I was wondering if you MS folks were past this. They are running MS 3 or older MS with daughter boards these days on the volvos doing boost control knock sensing/control, N2O, water injection etc so it seems like your knock worries with MS should not be an issue. Let me know if I can point any of you folks that way. I'm about to MS my 740 so I've been doing alot of reading over there and on the MSefi site.

 

 

Thanks

Renny

 

ps. there's a guy on our board who builds MS boxes he is just about ready to launch his own site where you can buy MS in various stages bells and whistles.

[New to Soobys and new to the board. A few questions.]

Nice how did you get the 5 lug, did you swap hubs or did you use an adapter? Looks nice and I bet it handles alot better.

 

Thanks

Renny

[New to Soobys and new to the board. A few questions.]

Thanks for the info so far. Any one have info on these turbos? Also the TD04-13c also came stock on later model volvo 740s and I have one in the trunk of mine right now would that work. The turbine faces sideways and the compressor points up. What is the orientation of the WRX version?

 

Any info would be great.

 

Thanks

Renny

[New to Soobys and new to the board. A few questions.]

Hey, I just move to Portland Oregon and with fears of Ice Storms and such I went and bought a used 86 gl turbo, 5sp dr 4wd.

 

The good; body has one small dent under the rear bumper otherwise it's straight, replaced the one dead injector and the car is fairly quick not as fast as my volvo but enough to make it fun. Decent interior.

 

The bad; under high speed braking I have a shimmy - not felt at normal braking. Jumps out of 4wd if I'm accelarating hard then back off quick and sometimes it jumps out just of the hell of it. Controller to send heat and a/c in various directions doesnt seem to work. H style little 13 in tires.

 

So first things I'd like to know.

1) What is the stock turbo on these and what is the stock boost setting (I'll be getting a guage and maybe and MBC after a little more investigation)

2) Also how much boost can the stock turbo push and how good or bad is this water cooled intercooler.

3) How does the stock system handle things like injector swaps and what if any are the limits on the stock ecu.

4) What can be done about the little tires and have people lowered these cars. I'm not planning on taking this offroad as it is primarily going to be my winter commuter car but I'd like it to handle better and not look like I'm trying to compete with a lifted jeep.

5) Any thoughts on what to check out regarding the shimmy while braking

6) how do you get that switch panel off or is there some other trick to making those things work. All I can get is air out the front vents, at least it's heated air.

7) anything else you can tell me or I should know about these cars.

 

I'm gonna try an use the search function to get some answers but I figured I'd ask first as well as introduce myself.

 

Thanks

Renny