mtbe
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Posts posted by mtbe
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Okay: First, thank you all for your replies.
I took it to the dealer for its 120K checkup. I drove it for about 3000 miles. I decided to check because I did smell oil, that may have been coming from my car, or it may have been someone elses.
When I checked it with the engine warm, it indicated about 2x the full level. I checked it in several places and all were the same with the engine warm.
I took it to the dealer with a nasty gram. They called later in the day and said that the level was not over FULL and in fact was below FULL. WTF????
So, after work I went in and he showed me the stick. It in deed was below the full mark. It was showing slightly above the 3/4 mark. WTF was going on here??? He said I had to be careful how I read the stick because some of the oil can 'cling' to the side of the stick. YES, I know how to read a stick!
So, I pushed it off on Murphy's Law, not wanting to suggest they changed/drained the oil.
I get home and check it again. It was 2x the level again!!!
I'm an idiot! While at the dealer, the engine was cold.
So, do we check it while warm or cold?
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02 Forester here.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned that reading oil on boxer style engines is very unreliable. There is an entire thread about it. My engine will show 2x full and then if you change the orientation of the car slightly its back to normal. I would only worry that it's overfilled if you try checking it four times in different positions.
Checked it 3 times now in 3 different places. I'm taking it in tomorrow.
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'99 Forester, 124K miles, Manual.
About 3 months ago, I took it in for the 120K service. It came out and the tires were still low. I walked back in to explain and they agreed. When the maintenance supervisor drove it back out and handed me the keys, he joked, "It makes you wonder what else they missed".
So, over the next several thousand miles I smell oil off and on. Not very frequently so I speculated it was coming from autos in front of me.
At about 123.5K miles, I smell it closer to home. So, once there, I check the oil.
It was about 2 times over the Full limit!!! This was 2 days ago.
I will be taking it back to them tonight or first thing in the morning to at least show them and get an oil change, but what else will this do to the engine?
Should I have them take it apart and inspect the valves or anything???? I'm no mechanic, so any help is appreciated.
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The condensate drain for my A/C is plugged, and in the summer, every time I make a sharp turn, the water overflows and spills into the passenger or driver's footwell.
Where is the drain tube and what is the best way to access it/clean it?
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In summer when using the A/C, sometimes the condensate drain becomes plugged and water will spill into the driver or passenger side feet area..... but not the back.
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I just put TOYO Open Country on my '99 Forrester with 120k miles. Have about 5k miles on them and they seem pretty good so far. Haven't seen snow or ice in Ohio yet....
Had Michelin X-ones prior and they were great but can't find them anymore.
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figure out why it failed in the first place.
Are your tires uneven/different/underinflated?
It very well could have been. They are not that way now, but this past summer and winter one tire I've contantly had to fill. Just had it checked and fixed with rim sealer. I didn't realize that it had that much of an affect.....
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Being non mechanical: Yes, I'm the one that had the VCU failure.
The car has an unalignment problem now. It has been that way for maybe 1000-1500 miles. I thought maybe that could have caused the viscous coupling to fail and wanted to kick myself if that was the case.
Plus, I probably had the alignment done, at the dealer, 5000 miles ago. And now, it is worse than what it was before.
I did take it to a respected tire dealer and asked him about the wear (I wanted to change the tires) and he said that they were fine and I probably could get another 10,000 miles out of these. I do rotate them at 7500 miles, sometimes less.
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Two Questions:
Is there any mechanical damage to an un-aligned car? I know there will be damage to the tires and difficult steering/handling, but can this lead to mechanical damage in the differentials, or something else, also?
Once aligned, how long should it last? Is it pretty much once you drive off the mechanic's lot after alignment, it's in your own hands. 100... 1000... 2500 miles down the road and you're paying for a new alignment?
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It ends up that it was the center differential viscous coupling unit. I just had it replaced and it is not making that noise again.
Thank you everyone for your help and ideas!!! I hope to return the favor some day.
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Great pics. Those helped alot.
Well. Just came back from the dealer with a new Viscous Coupling Unit and it seems that that was it. No more noise!!!
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I guess I can see that. The center diff is binding and causing the issues.
Do they give a break down of costs, parts & labor?
Can the center differential on a manual bind? I've read elsewhere that this is a viscous coupling, and if it fails, it fails open (back wheels do not spin - no AWD)....
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just make sure they dont recomend changing front axles while your at it,that price sounds way cheap to me????????
Are you suggesting I change the front axles also at this time? Or are you saying that they may try to snooker me into that as well? I'm no mechanic, so I've no idea.....
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If it happens only after driving for awhile it sounds like there is enough of a mis-match in drive from front to rear that is slowly heating up the viscous fluid in the center diff and causing the problem. Check for the following things.
All four tires should be:
The same size ie. 195/65R14
Should be the same manufacturer and model tire
Should have the same tread depth within something like 1/16 of an inch.
Should be inflated to the recommended pressure (listed on the little plate on the drivers door sill.)
If all of these are in check, then it sure seems like it would be something wrong with the diff itself and not just a symptom.
Keith
Well, the tires are all the same manufactuer, size and wear....now. But for a little while (maybe 1-2000 miles, off and on), I was running low on one or two tires. Not sure if this is long enough to cause damage. Finally sealed the rims and that took care of that problem.
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I agree with the CV diagnosis. Open differentials can't bind unless there's something broken, which is what the front diff should be (open I mean, not broken
).Dealer came back and said it was center differential and $1000. The noise is there whether the clutch is depressed or not. I know I'm depressed....
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I guess I can see that. The center diff is binding and causing the issues.
Do they give a break down of costs, parts & labor?
This was a verbal on the phone. Slightly over $1000.
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Took the manual 99 Forester with 114K miles on it to the dealer due to an 'umph...umph....umph' sound coming from the front right wheel (or so it sounded like that area from inside the car) when turning slowly and sharply, like into a parking spot.
I brought this up before and many thought it was the torque binding, broken axle or CV joint.
At first, they could not duplicate it. The car had sat in their shop all night. I ran into the same issue: if it sat for a while, I would not hear the sound. But after driving a while, it would happen. So I asked them to drive a while and sure enough they could hear it also.
The said it was the center differential. Does that make sense? They also said when sitting on an incline with clutch in (not many inclines in Columbus Ohio), that the car would not roll backwards and this is another indication it is the center differential (maybe I should keep it this way for the hill brake?
). Also, if it could be the differential, does $1000 sound like a decent price?Thanks in advance for your help.....
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I just paid $350 for autostart, keyless entry and alarm. Get it done after you take it home. You'll pay too much at the dealer.
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torque binding is at the rear, never heard it at the front, let alone on one side. People with manuals do get it, just with a manual there are no options as far as how to fix it. The unit is sealed that applies the RWD. Flushing fluid only works with auto trannies.
If it is doing as you say, i would wonder if the front differntial is having issues.
And once again:banghead: year and mileage would help.
nipper
Sorry, I'm a newbie. 99 Forester S manual with 114k
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Can explain what you mean by binding on the front only? The binding shouldn't really be front or rear specific.
When making tight turns, like parking, I only hear and feel the 'skipping' in the front passenger side. My wife got out to see and, while she didn't say she saw anything, the noise was definately coming from the front. Other board members here associated that with the torque binding issue others are having.
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My 99 forester clock went out too.
It's a very simple fix with a soldering iron. No need to go out an buy anything.
I'm assuming your's is the same. If you remove the clock (use a small screwdriver - there are two tabs that you need to undo), then unplug it.
Remove the clock from the plastic front (I actually broke one of the tabs doing this so be careful). On the back of the electronics, you will see several small rectangular pieces with numbers on them. Look for the one that has 510. Part of it is partially under the display and seems difficult to reach. This is a resister and it has lost it's connection to the board.
Just resolder to the board it it'll take care of it!
Check out the picture here!!!!!!
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Sorry for bringing this up again. I've searched the sight and found many issues and fixes for torque binding on auto transmissions, but not manual. I did find one person here that had problems but it was with his rear axle.
My problem is the front passenger side wheel.
I just dropped it off at the Subaru dealer, but after reading some of these posts, feel I may be getting the shaft there and it may be as simple as flushing the transmission fluid????
Any thing I can try before putting $$$ into it? I don't mind putting around $1000 into it, but any thing more than that I may just be selling the thing. Too bad too because it's been a great car up till now.
I need some ideas....
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Any recommendations for new tires on a 99 Forester? Mainly highway driving. Looking for all season. Currently have Michelin X-one. Better than the Geolanders!
Too much oil?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Okay: I do not give it enough time to settle. I will give it some time on my next test, but it will have to wait until I return from China.
When I say 2x, the level was up to the point on the stick where it curves (or bent?), not including the curve...just up to the point where the curve begins.