dbullen
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Posts posted by dbullen
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Figured I would post this in case someone has an H6 with the same issue and has already replaced or cleaned IAC
2003 Subaru Outback H6 w/ 264,000 Miles
Idle was running a bit high in park (1200rpm) it gradually got worse and eventually idle started hunting in park and then in drive, as well as running high.
Cleaned IAC, no change, Replaced with known used working IAC no change.
Issue ended up being EGR that was plugged soild of carbon buildup. After EGR was cleaned and new gaskets installed everything is now back to normal.
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3 were replaced a while back, all he did this time was clean them all (3 were really built up with carbon) and 3 were okay but cleaned anyways.
He visually inspected fuel pump and also tested it, checked fuel pressure, checked a number of sensors (cam shaft, crank shaft sensors I believe), may have checked a few other things, and finally ended up by process of elimination at fuel injectors, so he took them out, saw the carbon build up and cleaned everything. After putting back together it ran smooth and no more codes.
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Car was fixed, issue was fuel injectors (3 of them), carbon build up, he did a cleaning of all injectors and car is running great now.
I guess reason all 6 were misfiring was because pressure regulator was on the side that had the issue, and was some how affecting the other injectors
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Tech finally has some time to look at it next week. I ordered 6 used injectors just to have on standby as he thinks there might be something going on with the injectors. He's going to check injectors along with fuel pump, although seems as if fuel pump is unlikely because pressure seems to be okay.
Coils were replaced not too long ago with subaru ones.
Hopefully won't be to difficult of a fix.
Will post results once he takes a peak
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Spark plugs were replaced about 1 year ago with subaru ones.
Timing chain tensioners were replaced about 2 years ago.
Master tech listened to the engine when he had a few minutes yesterday, he said it's not timing or chain tensioners/guides.
Spark plugs? How old? What kind?
At that mileage the timing chain guides may be worn and have allowed the chain to jump a tooth. There are inspection holes in the cover which can be removed to check the timing. Timing chain work is a major job on that engine. -
2003 Subaru Outback H6 (3.0), getting random misfire codes on all 6 cylinders.
Still idles okay (But sounds rough) no loss of power.
Showed P301 - P306 codes, as well as 2 of the cylinders showed misfire/lean fuel code.
Had tech test fuel pressure with gauge it was fine (39 psi), I replaced fuel filter with new Subaru Filter.
I filled up tank to full to see if that would make a difference and it still ran the same.
No loss of power that I can notice under acceleration.
256,000 Miles on the car.
(about 8 months ago 3 of the injectors (2,4,6) were replaced with genuine OEM subaru ones. ) However symptoms here were misfire in only 1 cylinder
(About 6 months ago 3 of the Coil's were replaced with genuine subaru ones - can't remember which sides ) - However symptoms here were misfire in only 1 cylinder.
Fuel Pump was replaced 3 years ago (It had failed completly) and was replaced with a used one from a Low Mileage Subaru H6.
Any suggestions on what else to check? Normally I have a master subaru tech that can diagnose and fix for me, however he is tied up for the next 2 weeks.
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i fix alot of center clutch packs that are still ok but not tight enuff if its loose when it trys to go awd it clunks or shudders the clutch pac has to be set verry tight almost 0 clerance the h6 has very good tourqe so it can rip out a center diff clutch easyaly
But I do get a shutter/vibration when under load/ up hill, accelerating from a stop.
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ps is a very hard trans to rebiuld diff is very hard to set if its been messed with throw it away and start with one thats never been touched takes me 4 hrs to r@r the front diff belive its 4.44 [dont mess with factory settings ]
Was rebuilt by a friend of mine who is a master subaru tech at one of the dealers. Has worked great the last 100,000 miles until now.
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If anyone is interested in how this (usually) works-
The motor gets +12V all the time, and runs whenever the other side of the motor is grounded. The park mechanism is usually a disk/brush assembly under the output shaft that grounds the motor except when it is in the 'park' position.
Intermittent wipers usually just give a short grounding to the on/off switch wire and relies on the park switch to carry the wipers through an entire wipe.
The park switch could also be a more traditional switch that gets pressed/released by a cam on the output shaft.
Sometimes the grounding for the park switch is a separate wire that comes out of the motor and gets bolted under one of the mounting bolts. If this wire gets broken or the mounting bolt loosens, corrodes, etc. the motor is fine and you just need to fix the connection to ground.
Dave
Gotcha, Do you know if this is the way it's setup in a 03 Outback LL Bean with original motor? I guess I will just remove plastic cover find out.
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Hmmm, did the front diff lose some fluid?
Nope it's full, and carrier bearings were replaced approx 100,000 miles ago when I had transmission rebuilt.
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Appears to be the carrier bearings in the front differential that is causing the noise, looks like they will have to be replaced.
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The nut that secures the wiper arm is probably loose.
Nuts on both wiper arms are on tight. Does anyone else have any other thoughs?
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Whenever I shut off front wipers they stop in the middle of the window (Or whatever position they are in when I switch it to off) instead of retracting. Also when I use the mist button it stops in random spots each time instead of retracting. Is this the wiper motor needing replacement or is something else going on?
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Does the hum seem to increase at the same rate as wheel/vehicle-speed, or at about 4x the rate of wheel speed increase?
The driveshaft spins 4x as fast as the wheels so the pitch changes radically with vehicle speeds, wheel bearings not so much.
A bad U-joint won't hum, but the center carrier bearing can.
If it's a VDC car the driveshaft wears quicker as it always sees at least 55% of the power.
Dave
It's an H6 LL bean, so don't believe VDC. The humm starts at 30 mph or so and is gone by 35-40 mph. Or atleast faint enough you can't hear it over the engine/wind noise (It is loudest around 33/34 MPH). I've noticed it for probably 6 months, but in the last few weeks has gotten much lounder.
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i just bought an '01 outback VDC w/ H6, 157K miles and a DEAD trans. i replaced the trans and found a bad rear trans mount in the process. have your guy check it out. pick up on the rear of the trans. there is a rubber cushion in between 2 metal plates. i don't know how the plates are attached to the cushion, mine was completely loose, one plate not attached to the cushion.
~$67 from the dealer, less wholesale or online.
humming could be the power steering pump, that's on my list.
Thanks for the reply, My transmission was rebuilt a few years ago as well, mounts were okay then, though could be worn now, I will have him double check that.
Humm is only when you're in drive and at 50-60 KM/hr, sounds like it's coming from drive shaft, but thinking maybe wheel bearing, or maybe something else who knows.
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I have a 2003 Outback with H6 here's what's happening.
If I accelerate quick off the start, I hear a loud clunk noise that sounds like it's come from dead center of the car below the center console/shifter area. You hear the clunk only when you give it a bit harder then normal from a start. Also hear the exact same clunk noise if you brake hard (You hear the noise 1/2 second before car comes to complete stop).
Also hearing a humming noise, that is really noticable at 30-35 MPH and above or below that speed you still hear it just not as noticable.
Also have a slight vibration in wheel only when your on the throttle either first starting off (accelerating from a stop) or going up a hill (Whenever there is more load on the vehicle). All new tires/ wheels have been tripple checked for balance. No difference between summer/winter tires rims, so I know it's not a wheel tire issue.
I'm having my subaru guy (master tech) look at the issue this weekend however he's tried to figure out the clunk last time I was up and though it might be a drive shaft issue, he dropped the back part of the drive shaft and it looked fine but didn't have time to look at the front part. Just wanted to see if anyone has had any similar issues and what the problem was.
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Get a used pump, they never fail so they're cheap and not worth replacing new. Place I often get stuff from has one for $40 1-412-782-5580. It looks like the 6 cylinder pumps are listed as different parts than the 4. You could also post in the parts wanted forum here or subaruoutback.org.
How did you know it failed, did you have any symptoms prior?
Whether you replace it with new or used, you'll probably never have to replace it again. So you'd be paying a $800 premium for a a %0.01 increase in reliability. Save your money and buy an aftermarket warranty instead....just kidding.
On the older gen stuff you can wire in aftermarket pumps that don't cost much. They aren't direct replacement but easily installed, you have to cut and attach the wiring harness plug of the original pump to the wires of the aftermarket and strap it in the original bracket. The newer stuff is completely different though and an in tank style set up that may be harder to do that with.
Thanks again for the info. Ordered the $40 one you mentioned above. Place was great to deal with, even let me email them a prepaid shipping label as I get get a discount through DHL. Should have the part in 2 days. a nice savings vs the $800ish the Canadian Dealer wanted
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Get a used pump, they never fail so they're cheap and not worth replacing new. Place I often get stuff from has one for $40 1-412-782-5580. It looks like the 6 cylinder pumps are listed as different parts than the 4. You could also post in the parts wanted forum here or subaruoutback.org.
How did you know it failed, did you have any symptoms prior?
Whether you replace it with new or used, you'll probably never have to replace it again. So you'd be paying a $800 premium for a a %0.01 increase in reliability. Save your money and buy an aftermarket warranty instead....just kidding.
On the older gen stuff you can wire in aftermarket pumps that don't cost much. They aren't direct replacement but easily installed, you have to cut and attach the wiring harness plug of the original pump to the wires of the aftermarket and strap it in the original bracket. The newer stuff is completely different though and an in tank style set up that may be harder to do that with.
Thanks for the info, the one above you mentioned was a 6cyl one? If so I will give them a call and hopefully they will ship to canada
My subaru guy (Certified Master subaru tech at dealer) diagnosed it. He said the pump is toast. It's my fault as I have always run the car until the fuel light comes on. I have now learned that this is not good. Car was working fine then all of a sudden it wouldn't start. He said my sending unit and accumulator are in good shape. He did mention if I get a used one to make sure it hasn't been out of use for more then 5-6 months. So that was my only concern about getting a used one. But I can't bring myself to pay $800, since I just spend $3500 on it getting heads/head gaskets and a bunch of other items.
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Fuel pump has failed in 2003 H6. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what I should replace it with. Can bring myself to shell out $845 for a Subaru Fuel pump (from Subaru Canada).
Does anyone know if there is a Denso or Bosch pump that will fit an H6, I can't seem to find one.
Can one of the mod's delete one of my two posts, I hit refresh by mistake and it duplicated it
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Fuel pump has failed in 2003 H6. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what I should replace it with. Can bring myself to shell out $845 for a Subaru Fuel pump (from Subaru Canada).
Does anyone know if there is a Denso or Bosch pump that will fit an H6, I can't seem to find one.
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Fuel pump has failed in 2003 H6. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what I should replace it with. Can bring myself to shell out $845 for a Subaru Fuel pump (from Subaru Canada).
Does anyone know if there is a Denso or Bosch pump that will fit an H6, I can't seem to find one.
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i'm not familiar with EZ heads. if there are bearing surfaces on them i might want them checked, something the shop could do. they're probably fine but "toasted" lower end is odd. EZ's don't toast lower ends very often so the only concern i'd have is that it's due to low or poor oil which could affect the cams/bearing surfaces on the head (if they have those).
the place in maryland is very reliable, my parents know the folks that own it, been there for decades, i've bought parts from them over the years. i'd give them a call.
Returned the head and ordered another one from Condon's Auto Parts In Maryland. He even let me email them a shipping label (as I get a discount on shipping through my business). With any bit of luck part will be here by the weekend.
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insane what you've been through so far, you're amazing for staying this calm about it, i think that's awesome. i'm impressed and think it says all sorts of good things. cheers to that and good luck moving forward.
wow, that added up really fast, didn't think shipping would be near that high but even still all the taxes, customs, etc really drive it up quick.
Well my tech had the head delivered today, I guess it was a piece of garbage, so it's getting send back. Guess i'm back to square one again, about to give up and through the car in the garbage or part it out
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i'm not familiar with EZ heads. if there are bearing surfaces on them i might want them checked, something the shop could do. they're probably fine but "toasted" lower end is odd. EZ's don't toast lower ends very often so the only concern i'd have is that it's due to low or poor oil which could affect the cams/bearing surfaces on the head (if they have those).
the place in maryland is very reliable, my parents know the folks that own it, been there for decades, i've bought parts from them over the years. i'd give them a call.
I called the place in maryland, they were awesome to deal with and were willing to ship to canada, however head was $175 + 155 (Shipping) = $330 USD X 1.07 (exchange rate) = $353 Canadian + Taxes charged by customs (15%) = $406, then it would cost $140.00 to crack check it and $80 to plane it once here, for a total of $626.00
I just decided to go with the one for $650 here in canada, as it was crack tested and planed already and guaranteed and will be here in 2 days instead of 7-10 days.
Once this is all said and done, I will have spent about $3100 in the last few months on this vehicle (And that's after I got a discount on all my parts buying online and my subaru tech cutting me a major deal on labour, starting to wonder if it was even worth it. Probably should have parted it out, but it's too late now
2003 Subaru Outback H6 P0507 & P0519 problem solved
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by dbullen
I purchased the car with 120,000 miles and it now has 264,000 miles, mostly city driving in the 7 years I've had the car. I have always run 91 octane since I've had the car