Monte
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Posts posted by Monte
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So, do you think that where the black stuff is gone is where it's been leaking? If that's the case, there's no doubt mine were leaking. I'll post some pictures later to show.
Thanks,
Monte
If you need a reference point, here is a photo from Skip's head gasket changeout page:
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Replaced the head gaskets on my 97 OBW 40,000 Km ago and so far everything is fine.
I too was wondering the same thing as I stared at the parts in front of me. I had exhaust gases visible in my coolant overflow bottle but the original head gasket appeared fine.
Once I started peeling the layers of the gasket apart, I could see obvious places where the exhaust gases were getting into the cooling system.
This made me feel a little better about doing the whole job...
Regards;
Ken
Yeah, it'd be nice to see the leak. I'll look closer at the gasket.
Monte
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Its not always obvious. Be absolutely sure the head and block surfaces are PERFECTLY flat before reassembly.
Can I do that myself? I can easily take the heads in, but the block? I've seen pictures of checking the heads with a straight edge and feeler guage, but where do I get a good straight edge?
Monte
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Cool, I'll have to give it a try once my head gasket job is done.
Monte
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Here is my problem...
I want to put a tow hitch on my outback so I can tow my dirtbike.
The only available hitches for the legacy outback are Class 2, 3000 pound tow limit and 300 pound tongue weight and has a 1 1/4in reciever.
I would like to get a dirtbike rack which weighs about 25 pounds but it requires a class 3 hitch with a 2inx2in reciever hole.
Now my dirtbike weight 190 pounds, would it be safe to get an adapter for the hitch from 1 1/4in (class 2) to the 2inx2in (class 3)? I'd really rather a rack instead of a trailer. I would be well under the tongue limit for the hitch rating.
The rack basically looks like a platform perpendicular to the car with a square tube the plugs into the hitch.
Thanks,
Will
I've got a bicycle rack that's the same way, 2" x 2" "tongue". I'm going to cut the 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 receiver off the hitch I'll eventually get and weld (or have welded) on a 2 x 2 receiver.
You can check the math on the tongue weight to be sure:
Assume a ball is about 6" away from the rear of the receiver opening, 300lbs x 6" = 1800 in-lbs of torque on the hitch. Now take the weight of the tray/rack plus the weight of the bike, measure the distance from the rear of the receiver opening to where the bike sits and do the math. Example:
Bike and rack, 200 lbs
Distance from receiver to bike tires, 18"
200lbs x 18" = 3600 in-lbs, twice what the hitch is rated for.
Or you can go backwards and figure out how much weight you can handle if you know the distance:
1800 in-lbs/18" = 100lbs You could only put 100 lbs 18" out from the receiver and be at the rating for tongue weight. That's not much. Might need to figure out a way to beef up the hitch. I might have to just for my bike rack after doing this math.
Monte
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I can't really tell for sure where the leak is, should it be really obvious? The valves in one cylinder did look damp, like I would imagine it would if it had some coolant on it. The others looked dry.
And when I was removing the cams, some of the bolts had a little bit of water under pressure under them. When I first untorqued them I got a little pffft and some drops of water. 3-4 bolts under the valve cover did this and 1-2 of the bolts holding the seals did it too. What's up with that?
I'm not totally sure, but I think a couple head bolts came out wet too, not sure what to think there either.
Thanks,
Monte
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I remember this from my Chevy 235 days. I think it's rings. It'll start doing it eventually just compression braking on the hiway. I think the compression rings start letting more oil stay on the cylinders because when compression braking they aren't sealing against the cylinder as tightly so they don't wipe all the oil off. Hit the gas and poof, the oil goes up in smoke.
Monte
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crank pulleys can be installed without pins or keyways. i'm sure this is evil talk, but i've done it. give the crank bolt as much torque as you can with a break bar, you won't strip the bolt unless it's already damaged.
i like some of these fixes, interesting!
That IS evil talk, especially on an interference engine.
Monte
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there are some pretty good MLS gaskets available for the ej25's now.(all metal)
What's "MLS"?
Monte
(phase I 2.5l on an engine stand in the shop)
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Sticky dowel pins. I yanked and pulled on the motor. A little bit of spackle putty knives crammed in the hairline gap to split everything.
When I reassembled the engine to the transmission, I sanded smooth the pins, gave them a little chamfer/bevel with a file and then wiped anti-seize compound on them. Don't want to have to go through that again.
Your pins stayed with the engine block, mine stayed in the bellhousing.
Monte
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My Legacy alternator failed this afternoon and battery went flat - no warning light came on.
Could I have got home 10 miles using my seven and a half amp-hour jump starter battery if I still had original battery connected or would I have needed to disconnect original battery?
Gil
I think you could have made it a ways, not sure how far. If your battery was dead, then hooking up the jump starter battery and leaving the original battery connected would have drained the jump battery a bit faster because the jumper would have been trying to charge the original.
Monte
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Engine is out, hanging from the lift. One bellhousing pin started coming out with the engine, that doesn't help much. So far, rear crank seal is slimed all around, separater plate looks like it's been leaking, front crank seal looks like it's been leaking too, there's oil in the bottom of the timing belt covers.
I'll post some pictures as I take some.
Monte
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Mostly just want to make sure that there are only two nuts (bottom) and two bolts (top) that need to be removed to pull the engine out. That bottom drivers was a pain, ended up pulling the axle off the stub to get a straight shot at it:rolleyes: . Any other tip are more then welcome!!! Thanks, Tim
To anyone, what's the trick to getting these loose from the transmission? Took out 2 bolts on top, 2 nuts on the bottom, 4 bolts from the flex plate. Lifted the engine and trans and pulled the motor mounts loose from engine and set them back in the cross member so I don't have to lift it so high.
'97 OBW,
Monte
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i think you got the firing order right, dunno about the cranking and tdc positions. doesnt hurt to get a second reference though (shoot for the haynes one, its a very nice read)
I think it's 1/2 a crank revolution between TDC's, 2 crank revs and #1 fires again.
Monte
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I've been Bung Hunting, heard all the jokes. Tried NAPA, Haredware, Tractor/Farm supply and Home Depot. No Bungs......
Any idaes where I might find the Bung for the exhaust manifold?
Google (weldable bung), first hit http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/O2WBK
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I think I've found it, 1-3-2-4, and the cylinders are
rear
3 4
1 2
front
and 1/2 crank turn between cylinders firing.
Monte
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I'm trying to do a leak down test, couldn't find a Haynes or Chilton for the '97 OBW, my FSM hasn't shown up yet. I found a tiny, tiny mark on the front crank pulley, I hope that's the timing mark I need. What's the firing order, which cylinder is which, and how many degrees of crank rotation until the next cylinder is at TDC (I used to know that part, but can't remember)?
My first cylinder I'm testing is front driver side. Leaking down 40 psi, hissing coming from the oil filler tube, and I can't think of any time in the 4 stroke cycle that there should be a path from any cylinder to the crankcase.
I'll keep searching, but if you know, it would help me get'er done.Thanks,
Monte
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Pump is fine. I have washed out the radiator. On a 98, are both fans supposed to come on at the same time?
I think one fan only comes on when the AC is running and temp gets high enough. The other comes on when the temp gets up high enough, AC or not.
Monte
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Here you go, this is worth mentioning if you are going to replace the rear main crankshaft seal. Also make sure you have a digital camera handy and take lots of pictures. Mark the flywheel/driveplate and then make a matching mark on the end of the crank (before you turn it!) so you can put them back together in the same place for balance sake. A "paint pen" is a good way to mark it....available at the hardware store......the same type yellow marking pen that the junkyard writes all over stuff with.....
Thanks,
Monte
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Stupid question time: When you pull the engine, does the transmission stay in the car? How about the torque convertor - does it stay on the trans, or the engine when the two are split?
(It's been a long time since I've done anything like this and never on a Subaru)
/kthanks
The transmission stays with the car. My auto trans experience is with a Ford, the torque convertor stayed with the engine, I'm thinking the Subaru is the same. Not sure there's a way to detach the TC from the engine before pulling the engine, though I hope I can.
Monte
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do the water pump if you're doing the timing belts. belts are good for 100,000 miles so you won't be going back in there anytime soon. otherwise you're relying on the stock water pump to go 200,000 before you get to the next timing belt/water pump install. do it all now and hopefully you're good for the next 100,000 miles. check all the timing belt pulleys, replace any that are loose or noisey for the same reason....if the water pump or the bearings fail they take the timing belt with it and this is an interference engine.
Good call, I hadn't looked at the water pump in that way. 200k does sound like a lot of miles for a water pump.
Monte
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I'd do the water pump, might save you going back in there next year. And of course the crank front seal, and check all the spinning bits on the front of the engine for bearing problems.
Can't you get a gasket set for the head job only? Or do you have to buy a full engine overhaul set?
I was going by Skip's parts list here, he stated it was less expensive to get the OH kit instead of buying the pieces. If I do a water pump, oil pump o-ring, cam seals, crank seals, etc., he's probably right. If I was just doing the HG I'd just get those gaskets.
Monte
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Hi, been posting on the Older Gen board, have a '97 OBW that needs a HG change. What's the "job list" for this? I'm pulling the engine, so might as well get it all done while it's out. Auto trans if it matters, and 93k.
From what I've gathered, I should do:
HG's
cam seals
rear crank seal
timing belt
oil pump o-ring? part of oh gasket set?
oil separater plate? part of oh gasket set?
edit: water pump
edit: check all tensioner bearings
Parts needed are:
Overhaul gasket set
Valve cover gaskets (not included in OH kit)
Spark plug gaskets (not included in OH kit)
timing belt
autotrans fluid
oil separater plate
edit: water pump
More could be done, but what's really necessary at 93K?
Monte
97 2.5 obw heads off, are the hg leaks obvious? Water under cam bolts?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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What's a "not cheap" steel ruler? I'm a carpenter, I've got "steel rulers" all over the place. None were cheap to me, but I'm not sure if I'd trust them to check my heads and/or block.
Monte