gkowen

I have a 1986 4WD wagon. It is carbureted. I get 20-25 mpg. I drive it conservatively pretty much. Its fun to drive. Thanks for all the input everyone. As always, this group has been very helpful.

Pardon my ignorance but does the 92 Loyale Wagon have an EA82 engine? Is it SPFI or MPFI? I like the wagon I have, maybe I should work on putting a newer engine in it.

I might have a line on a 4wd justy. How much mpg can I expect? if I get 40 then thats a gallon a day saved. So I can save $12.50 a week or $50 a month. The car would pay for itself in a year. Are they hard to work on?

I am looking for a commuting car that has gas mileage. I currently am driving a 1986 GL Wagon. It seems to be easy to work on. How similar is a Justy? Anyone have an idea if I can get a Justy and put in a new engine. My car pool ends in 6 months. Thanks for any input. People here are always so helpful.

Thanks for the answer. I will look through partsamerica and see what I can find. So I look for a clutch pilot bearing and a distributor bushing?

it lacked power before. I need to replace the distributor and spark plugs. Eliminate some of the vacuum lines and make sure no leaks. It runs ok, just not nice when a volkswagen diesel rabbit can out run me. lol

i found one on ebay for $100. For this price I am thinking I should just buy it. The seller has great ratings. I need to change the plugs too.

Thanks. This is the one that goes thru the firewall on the passenger side I think. Can anyone think of anything else?

I have installed a different Hitachi carb on my wagon. It was from a Nissan but came brand new for $35. Anyway, the car runs but I want to get rid of some of the extra vacuum lines. I am handy but not mechanically inclined. I have done the timing belts a couple times and the carb. Ok so what do I need vacuum for? Distributor advance and brakes. What else? Thanks for taking time to answer.

Where can I get a good used one or a rebuilt? My local auto parts has them for around $150. Is this a ok price?

Yes vacuum was plugged. When I did the belts, I turned the engine over for 10 seconds and rechecked. I think the timing is ok. I will change the plugs. Thanks for the response

I just replaced my timing belts and I have no power above 3K rpms. I will be checking for a vacuum leak. I used Bosch platinum plugs with 2 prongs and a .044 gap. Could this cause the problem? When I timed it I set it to 8 degrees and it is a bit jumpy. I averaged it at 8. Could the distributor need replacing? This car has about 260K miles on it. I know the carb secondary opens but it doesn't get any extra power.

I got the carb from a surplus dealer for $40 plus $15 shipping on EBAY. It is supposed to be brand new and the person had over 300 or was it 3000 ratings with 100% satisfaction. So for $55, I should be able to replace my carb, maybe get a bit more power, and hopefully not have to modify much. It is supposed to bolt right on and use the same air cleaner. I know I will have to do something for the linkage. Life rarely is as simple as it is supposed to be so I also bought a rebuildable Weber 32/36 DGV (I think) for $30. I have a friend who wants it if I don't use it. But I guess its mostly about, can I get something different to work. Thanks everyone for all the comments. Its going to be an adventure.....

Ok I have a new DCH340 Hitachi carb on the way and an article about tuning it if I need to. I have never messed with a carburetor much. I am sure I will have alot of fun (short for frustration). If it does bolt right up it will be interesting to see how well it runs. Anyone have any tips to share that might make it easier? I appreciate all the responses and information this board has.

Maybe I am reading wrong but I read it that the DCH340 is a later version than the DAF328 that is on my 86 wagon. I thought I also read somewhere that it would bolt right on to. That it has the same mounting. The only thing I thought might be a problem was the jet size. Time for more research I guess. Thanks for the replies.

OOPS forgot the article link http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_carb_tuning_guide.html

Has anyone swapped the stock Hitachi DAF 328 to a Hitachi DCH 340?? This article seems to suggest it would work if rejetted and still keep emissions under control. Anyone care to comment? Thanks

Have checked them, haven't replaced them though. And choke appears to function ok. Thanks

My Subie is carbureted and I think the carb is going bad. It ran good until the timing belt broke. I replaced that and did the complete tune up and it was running fine. Then I cleaned the carb with some seafoam and since then it runs rough at high speeds, idles anywhere between 750 and 2200 Rpm until a tap on the pedal lowers the rpm even when hot. And after sitting for a while is hard to start? I think the float is sticking. This is my commuter car so gas mileage is important. I think I have 3 options besides doing a SPFI conversion. Buy a rebuilt hitachi, convert to a weber, or going to a cheaper holley-weber carb. Will the Holley-Weber get rid of emissions stuff?? I do not have emissions testing so that is ok. How about gas mileage? I am not worried too much about power. 0 to 60 in 6 miles is ok with me. I just want this car to last 3 more years. Just asking for opinions. Thanks.

The linkages all seem tight so I am going to clean them with carb cleaner again and replace the spring with a slightly stronger one (if I can find one). Is there anything else I should check before I put the air cleaner back on? The car always did idle high at 1200rpm or so but I suspect that could be the grime problem. If I pull the linkage by hand it will go below 1000 and idle there. Should I use WD40 after the cleaning to lubricate the linkage parts? Seems like this might leave dirt catching residue that will cause the problem to come back. I do appreciate all the help. Just wish I knew more about these engines.

Yes it was sticking so thats why I replaced the cable. When I took the old cable out it was so sticky that when I held it vertical the cable wouldn't slide in the sheath by itself. I had to pull it to move it. It was better but not fixed after the cable change. I have cleaned inside and out good. I will know more when I get the cable off and try the linkage by hand. Thanks for all the replies.

I forgot to say I replaced the cable about a month ago. So it is new. I also have cleaned the carb and the surrounding area. It all looks clean.

Ok, so this is my first post. Thanks to this message board I have been able to keep my Wagon running. It seems I have a carb problem now. The throttle seems sticky and the idle can be anywhere from 1000 - 2000 rpm. I tap the gas pedal and it stays. I plan to disconnect the throttle cable and see if it is still sticking when moved by hand. I think it is just that the thing is worn out. It has 230K miles on it and I suspect the throttle actuations are wearing out the metal. How do I check for this and how much 'play' should I expect when I unhook my throttle cable? Also, if this is the problem, I suspect that a rebuild kit won't do anything. Do you trust junk yard carbs or should I just get a complete rebuild from someone? Also, I read a post here where someone said that rebuilding the carb solved a problem I have. If I am turning a tight radius say on an exit ramp on the freeway, when I straighten out I leave behind a large puff of smoke. I thought some oil was getting by the valves or something. Could this be a carb problem? Thanks for your time and help.