db4

Actually neither way requires balancing, what is required is accuracy. If rotating parts are round and concentric, they are inherently balanced. We're used to seeing tubular drive shafts with balance weights on them; reason being that they are built on nearly automatic machinery and then balanced the same way, it is quicker and cheaper than building them straight. I used to build driveshafts, if you hold runout under .005" they don't shake.

Thanks for the replies. I did a search here and found the tsb about the bridge cracks and other info, and it appears that my theory stands disproven. Gotta love it when you assume the worst and find out you're wrong.

My other Sub ('90 Loyale) went down for a cracked head at about 190 k. I had bought it @ 123k, and the radiator had been recently replaced; it was not overheated while I had it. My theory is that the cracks start between the seats and then propagate back into the water passages, but I would be more than happy to be wrong. The one currently apart is an '88 DL w/240k, runs fine but leaks way too much oil from the pressure passage at the head gasket joint. Is it worth it to reassemble with the heads I have? Changing heads is not my favorite thing, but I like it better than buying them.

Anybody know the best place to buy reman heads in the Portland area? I opened up my ea82 for head gaskets and found the usual cracks between valve seats; not leaking yet, but only a matter of time...

The one you're looking for is a 1/4" inside diameter rubber hose, well hidden behind/under the carb. The TBI cars have one in front as well, not sure if the carbureted model does, but I think so. My local dealer doesn't stock the molded curve hoses, they are easily replaced with fuel hose and small hose clamps from any parts house.