Ranger83

A coworker had Natick do their head gasket job, they did a good job with it, at typical dealer pricing. I've found the best place to look is the MechanX files at CarTalk.com. Don't just search for Subarus: look at all brands as they don't always list them by brand they work on. Most independent foreign repair shops around here are very familiar with Subarus. When I go to a new shop I try and bring it in for a problem andother shop or I've already identified, so I can see what their deal is.

Am I missing something? Why would you have trouble on flat packed sand with any vehicle?

The 6 cylinders are relatively rare in the US. Tuning parts aren't readily available, and it is relatively highly tuned to begin with. The new H6 with variable valve timing and 250hp would be nearly impossible to find. Given that turbocharged Imprezas are readily available from the factory, and can be built to over 300 reliable horsepower, you'd be throwing thousands of dollars away. If you want a sleeper it's easy to lose the hood scoop and wing, if equipped.

Most folks in your shoes get the manual, because their resale value isn't so great; they cost less to begin with; and get better mileage.

It's a show car, it will last forever and get zero tickets.

This may help. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html

I'd get a whole lot more information on that. Having frame damage on an AWD car could be very expensive if you have problems. Book values aside, 97's with over 100K sell for $3,000 to $5,000 around here. And you have to be sure it does not have problems with head gaskets. You're also facing a major maintenance at just over 100K - it's usually $600 at a garage and as much as $900 at a dealer. AWD cars aren't the best choice on a tight budget. FWD and a set of dedicated snows is a better choice.

To do this on a vehicle that doesn't have low range or locking differentials would be some serious posing. Most Subaru owners have too much self-respect.

I used the PCV tube - it's easy. It's on the left side. It significantly reduced the off-throttle hesitation I had on my 97. I'd be reluctant to put it in the engine oil. I use Chevron Techron gas treatment periodically.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html

The CR test gave them poor grades on ice traction?

Probably not available because the size and weight of anything that would be more than an ornament on contact would negatively affect the handling. There's no good place to attach one; late model Subarus aren't off-road worthy anyway; and Subaru owner esthetics sensibilities tend to run counter to the appearance.

On my 97 I had Michelin Hydroedge, which still had substantial tread left after 45,000 miles when I sold it to my sister-in-law, who has gone another 10K or so. Plain ole Michelin X work very well on Subarus also - sold by chain stores like Costco, Sam's Club etc. The Goodyear Triple Treads seem to be a popular replacement, although a test on CR indicated the weren't very good in snow and ice compared to some other A/S. My 06 came with the often maligned Bridgestone RE92A. I took them off at 587 miles and will be selling them on eBay next week with a reserve price of $25 per tire. Tire Rack asks $127 per tire, so that should give you some indication of what I think of them in my limited exposure. I'm down to Goodyear Eagle F1 D3 or Michelin Pilot Sport A/S for replacements. For dedicated winter tires I have Nokian RSI's.

My sister-in-law bought my '97 2.5 4EAT OBW @ 165K miles to replace hers, 245K...... I think #2 now has around 175K.

It's BS. One service guy at Manchester NH Subaru told me that, "While they don't have it in writing," SOA doesn't recommend using synthetic oil in VVT engines. Another guy, same dealer, says, "We sell it - people use it all the time." SOA confirmed in writing that there's no problem but you can't extend the drain interval. Dealers try and sell "packages" when you go in for services at designated mileages. So instead of getting an oil change for $30 you get an Inspection Package for $99 - which includes the oil change and about 10 minutes of visual inspection, if they even do it.

I won't start until 15,000 or more.

I'm not buying any Bridgestones until they atone for the RE92A's.....

I put Nokian RSI's on my Subaru because they were so great on the Honda accord V6 last winter. They have held up well, 11/32nd tread left after 3,600 miles. We put Michelin X-Ice on our Quest minivan and they're quieter than the Nokians, but the Michelin dealer himself said the Nokians last longer. They're a good tire as well.

How long have you had yours? What do you think of them?

Just get the tires and wheels. Stock 06 size is 225/55r17 on Outback. Check this out:http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html

I took the RE92A's off my new OBW at a little over 500 miles and put snows (Nokian RSI) on. Soon I'll have to mount tires on my other rims. The RE92A's have a poor reputation in winter. But their rain performance seems more mixed - some people happy, others not. I want a good-performing rain tire with decent wear. On tirerack, the only tire rated worse in the wet is the Firestone Firehawk. Are they really that bad? I have to say I drove them once in the rain - and they hydroplaned pretty readily. I think I can get $150 to $200 for them on eBay.

I found Castrol High Mileage to work very well in my older Subaru. Not synthetic, though.

Usually when someone gets new tires and complains of lack of directional stability, it's due to one of two things: 1. The tread is thick and/or there is still mold release compound on the tires so they're slick. Both go away within 500 miles or so. 2. You have wheel(s) out of alignment. You can find a fair # of threads about the WR on subaruoutback.org and legacygt.com. They are overwhelmingly positive. So if you drive 500 miles and get an alignment and still don't like the feeling, time to punt! I have RSI's and don't have the problem.

I have an 06 H6 and I'm about to have the 3000 mile change. We have been doing oil analysis on a number of cars and trucks with mileage from 10,000 to 165,000. Three Subarus, two V8 trucks, a Honda V6, and a Nissan V6. Even at 7,500 mile change intervals, none of the vehicles we've tested (even a 2005 WRX) shows any signs of excess contamination or degradation of the additive packages. We hope to use Mobil I synthetic and good filters and go to 10,000 mile change intervals on everything. Some heavy trucks are extending their drain intervals to 40,000 miles.