TMan

During a timing belt replacement scenario (cam seals, crank seal, water pump etc)..... I have the bolt to each camshaft pulley "broken free", but before I remove the timing belt I want to ensure that the cams are held "in place". I plan to secure the camshafts since I have the valve covers off to replace gaskets there. What I would like to know is with all timing marks aligned, which way each cam might try to turn. Actually I guess the two on the drivers side with lobes pointed into the lifters look like they are "loaded". I am guessing that the top cam may try to turn CCW and the bottom cam CW? May be crude but I am thinking about locking them down by clamping a vise grip (rubber buffers in grip area) on the "cast" non journal section of the cams but want to get the direction correct. Thanks

A97OBW & WAYNE BONCYK Really nice to get some feedback based on previous experience. Greatly Appreciated TMan

Mine was SUPPOSED to be changed at 105,000 miles. I thought it was done a few years ago (well before 105K) when the dealer had to replace a front crank seal (warranty work). The invoice "read" "replaced all drive belts" and I thought it included the timing belt as well. Recently I checked the part numbers and surprise... it was only the AC and the V belt. Should have done my homework beforehand.

I have used "Shout" or "Grease Relief" plus water and have a shop vac running to pull the water and grease away from the seat instead of it draining through the fabric and into the foam. I have also used spray foam carpet cleaner and an old toothbrush to "finish up" the cleaning

Yeh, Boy!

I am about to change the timing belt (past due @ 120K) on my wife's 99 Outback 2.5 AWD automatic. I understand from reading other posts on the forum that the water pump should also be replaced during this process as well as the cam seals (4 ea.), crank seal (1 ea.) and the oil pump seal. 1. Reading the posts indicate I can make my own cam sprocket holder to prevent the cams from turning when the old T-belt is removed (really only needed on the left side? true or false?) from sockets and flat stock? The endwrench.com information would make you think both sides should be "locked down" and catastrophe results if the cams move? What if a cam does turn, do you turn it "back" or roll it on through to its original position? 2. I am confused about whether the cam sprockets need to be removed in order to replace the seals? It would seem so... and if the sprockets do need to be removed how is that done without the cam shafts turning? 3. About resealing the oil pump...is there a seal (part#10991AA001) that fits between the pump body and the block? Also, is there another point that needs sealing requiring the "ultra gray" RTV? 4. The T-belt tensioner sounds kind of fragile... are they typically reusable? Any and all advice from those experienced will be appreciated!