Audiophobe
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Posts posted by Audiophobe
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and it only happens when you brake........do you feel any pulsation in the brake pedal when you brake?........right off the bat im going to say that you have warped front brake rotors......
That's what I was thinking which leads me to believe that, as great as this car is, this is another chronic problem in this bad braking system. I had warped rotors a couple of times before which seems like more than a coincidence.
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ok are you talking about the steering wheel shimmying or the actual wheels themself.....either way i would get under there and just take a look around for any loose/damaged or missing steering/suspension parts......also check your brake pads and rotors....do you notice your brake pedal pulsating at all when you stop?
It's the steering wheel.
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I have a 2001 Outback LL Bean with about 205k miles.
With initial braking the wheel(s) shimmy but when you press the brake harder, further into the brake cycle, the shimmy goes away.
Any diagnoses so I know what's going on when I bring it into the shop?
Thanks!
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Since the garage will be doing the work I think the drop in
(W0133-1607858 ~100 bucks, already has the required connector, OE replacement 3-wire)
will be the way to go. They may get wierded out by electrical.
I think that's what I'll do.
Thanks all!
I'll let you know how it works out.
Anything else I should know before I order these and bring it to my shop?
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I don't believe that the 02 sensor itself is different for the H6 compared to the 4, there's just one more of them. Check various sites: subaruparts.com, 1stsubaruparts.com, and thepartsbin.com are my usual 1st places to look.
Far as I understand it (someone please correct if I'm wrong) there are really only two flavors of 02s you can get: the 3-wire versions (which is OE), and a 4-wire universal, the fourth wire on the universal is an additional sensor ground that you should tack to the chassis-ground, and should (thoeretically anyway) actually get you a quieter signal than the OE version. Quieter signal lets the ECU give better directions to the fuel injector and you should get an extra half-a-mile or so a gallon. O2 sensor isn't as specific as, for example, a thermostat or PCV that you really need the OE part for.
I called subaruparts.com :$165 plus each!
The parts bin:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=9167&Nr=OR(AND(make:Subaru,model:Outback,year:2001),AND(universal:1))&Vi=1719+11745+4294967264&y=2001&mk=Subaru&md=Outback
What a difference!
But, now I need yor help picking one.
As you can see there are sveral to choose from fro over $20 to over $120.
How do I choose?
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Unless your shop has an incredible parts service (like Junction Subaru in VT) you can probably get the OE sensors for half what the dealer will charge you: 50 bucks vs. 100 from the dealer.
Will they be as hard to find as the cat (for a 6 cyl.)? NOONE had the cat except for the dealership. Or are they not as model specific as the cat?
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The catalytic has no moving parts. It can't *wear out*. Generally they either get clogged, or the catalyst material wil begin to break up, which will contribute to poor catalytic action. Both are fairly uncommon occurances.
Change you're O2s first.
Thanks for all you're replies. VERY hlpful and hopefull will save me up to $1000 (I called the dealership and that was their estimate $750 plus labor. My guy told me the cat would cost him $550 or more.)
Well that's what I mean by "wear out". Like what I would mean when I say a filter wears out.
Anyway, I will tell them to change to O2 sensors. What do you think they'll cost from the dealer? Should I bother to order them online myself? There is no aftermarket cats for the H6 but sensors may be easier. If they're not too expensiv I'll have the shop order them.
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Thanks for the replies.
So I'll tell my mechanic to replace the O2 sensors first, then try the Seafoam, correct?
I understand that you guys say that the cat rarely goes but, remember, the milage is well over 200k. Couldn't that wear the converter out?
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My mechanic checked the engine light and the catalytic converter code came up. The light comes on intermittantly. It needs emmision test pronto and if the check engine light goes on it's an automatic fail.
I checked catalytic converter prices and I believe I need 2 and, wow!, they're expensive.
I checked a few aftermarket sites and they only have 4 cylinder.
Any suggestions?
2001 Subaru Outback wagon/ Eddie Bauer/ 6 cylinder/ about 208k miles. Has had tune up several months ago.
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So far this is being seen on cars with over 100K, and at that mileage, its no longer considered a design defect, but just a part failing.
If people under 100K have this problem, they need to report it to the NHTSA.
nipper
You may know more than me but I doubt that milage is relavant to recalls. My car is a 2001. Would it matter if it has 150k or 50k on it? I would think the model year would be more relavant.
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If this is such a common and dangerous problem, isn't this cause for a recall?
I've seen recalls for things less important than this.
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"Is it ok to manually lock the door if I have a keyless remote?"
:grin:I like to lock the door manually on occasion just because it's fun. My other car is has manual locks. That's OK isn't it?
But I do think my question was valid though.
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Oh, dang...
In the words of Bon Jovi...
I think SOMEONE was just "shot through the heart..."
That was cold, man...I don't know if that was called for...(but I do like your style!)
But I do think this thread is beginning to spiral into boring, redundant, pointless argument status FAST...
(But that's just coming from a 17-year-old who happens to know everything, too.)
I started the thread and thank all for their comments and for those bored with it, see you on the next really exciting thread!
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Manually shifting an automatic?
I'm sure there are "activities" that are more pointless and boring than this, but I'm at a loss to think of what they might be. Well, maybe watching cricket on TV.
Maybe.
This is one of the more "interesting" comments I've read on this thread and surprised that anyone would ask. It's not like I don't have a job, family, or other interests and that shifting an auto tranny is what I look forward to when I wake up evryday. And I certainly shift much less than 5% of my ride time. But why do I ask and want to?
-Better response- For example, rather than floor it and wait to have the tranny downshift to say, get on the highway or go uphill I manually downshift to get the tranny to shift quicker and
-One that some people won't understand, sometimes just for the fun of it.
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Yes its fine to manually shift an automtaic. Your not doing anything the valve body or ecu isnt doing normally. There is nothing your bypassing in the tranny mechanically, nothing your hurting, same clutches engage and disengage. And the ecu will save you from a collasal missed shift. I do it alot to get more response out of the car (when traffic pisses me off and i go into taxi mode).
nipper
OK.......!
Not that I plan to push it like my other (manual) car but it's good to know. Does anyone else agree(or diagree)?
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I have a 2001 Subie Outback LL Bean 3.0/6 cyl with 4 speed auto. I sometimes miss shifting (my other car is a standard) and wondered if there is any downside or "damage" in shifting and auto from 1st to 2nd and so on instead of the auto doing it's thing.
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There were a couple of recent threads on compasses not working.
Someone recommended unplugging the unit from the rear then replugging it. Then, press the left sided button (dimmer) for three seconds til it say "CAL" then drive in three circles.
Well, it worked for me. I just accepted that the unit was fried.
I always tell my kids, with electronics, if there's a problem that you can't figure out, always re-boot. There you go!
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I assume you mean 180k miles.
I bought a 2001 LL Bean about 6 weeks ago with 130k miles (now 132.5k).
Runs like new.
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Is there any preventive maintanance to prevnt the problem?
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Not the most interesting problem on the board but there is an end to it.
So I follow all the suggestions that you guys gave me. I scraped my knuckles, cursed, got my wife involved with smaller hands, used flashlights, cursed some more...........
Finally yesterday I went to the Subaru dealership. The first mechanic tried for a few minutes. No luck. Now at least I didn't feel like such an idiot.
He called in the the second, head, "go to" mechanic. He tried for a few minutes. No luck. He came back with a pair of needle nose pliers. No Luck. Finally, he locates the latch itself and pops it open. The nylon tab was wrapped around and behind the latch so there was no way to find it.
I almost kissed the guy. Insted I gave hime $20.
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April Fools!
Of course it's a joke!
If it wasn't, NASA would be ordering a few I think.
BTW, is it good for just low power Bluetooth or can I connect my TV and Foreman grill also?
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You're not going to believe this but I still can't find the damn thing. I even had my wife with her smaller hands try it. It's driving me crazy! I may stop into Subaru and see if they can find it.
Thanks for your help!
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I checked and changed the code and it's definitely a defective compass. I am not the original owner and I would doubt, but be pleasantly surprised, if Subaru would give me a new mirror if there was no officila recall.
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Took everyone's advise.
-Regular: more sluggish, milage about 20mpg
-Premium: better performance (not exactly a track car though:)), milage about 20mpg.
-Bottom line: For 5%-6% more per gallon premium is worth it to me. Plus, what one of you said made sense. Subaru wouldn't recommend it if it wasn't better for the car because the need for premium isn't exactly a selling point.
Thanks for your input!
Wheel Shimmy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
How big a deal (and how expensive) are bearings to replace?