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goatcheez

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Posts posted by goatcheez

  1. All fixed!! Thanks for all of your help! Even though I had put a new t-belt kit on her back in August, I decided to replace BOTH belts. Heck, their cheap enough. I checked the tensioners and pulleys everything seemed to be turning freely. So, as of right now, my diagnosis is just a bad belt. Went with a little more expensive brand this time too. So far so good.

     

    goatcheez

  2. Found it!! It WAS the timing belt, drivers side. I didn't see it until I got underneath the car. I just put new belts (whole kit with tensioners) on back in August. Looks like I got a bad belt out of the box. The t-belt covers are off, left 'em off after I did these the last time. Getting to it is easy.

    Okay, so here's my question. Finding top dead center. I had help from a friend when I did these before. Gonna be doing this one on my own. So finding TDC and adjusting the timing is beyond my knowledge. Any advice or tips are always appreciated.

     

    goatcheez

  3. Hi All!

     

    My 1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon died on me today while I was getting on the freeway. No warning it was just like I had turned the ignition off.

    To help narrow down the cause, here's what's been done to it over the last 6 months.

     

    New timing belts complete - August (covers still off - checked em look good)

    New fuel pump - October

    New Brakes/rotors - rear shoes - July

     

    It was running great up until this point. Can hear fuel pump prime when attempting to start. Doesn't even sputter, just cranks and cranks. Could this be an electrical issue? If so where do I start to diagnose? As good as this car was running before the failure, logic tells me it must be something simple. (I hope)

    Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

     

    goatcheez

  4. I had posted this about a week ago and looks like the server switch toasted it. Here it is again...

     

    My 1992 Loyale wagon is spraying oil on the underside of the hood. It's near the front, passenger side of the hood and settling some on the aircleaner cover and fan shroud. I can't, for the life, of me figure out where its coming from. A few of you posted some theories and I checked on a couple of them.

     

    First..."O" ring seal on dipstick. It was infact shot. I replaced it. Still sprying oil.

     

    Second...Cam seal or Oil pump seal. Well, could be, but I looked and looked and looked again and I can't see where it's leaking from.

     

    That's about as far as I got so far. Again, it's not "using" any more oil than normal for this motor, mileage, and age.

     

    Oil presure reads normal. Car is running fine. Does not seem to be spraying oil on trips around town (3 or 4 miles) just after my 40 mile commute.

     

    It seems to be sprying off the pullies or belts but belts are clean. Very little residue on oil filter too. I'm stumped. PCV valve??

     

    I trying to nail this down before the snow flies here in Wisconsin. Help!!

     

    goatcheez

  5. Thanks for your help guys!! I will look at the fuses this weekend. It's a "tropical" 3 degrees here in Wisconsin today. Supposed to warm up this weekend. I also am concerned about the "relay box". If its in the wheel well as mentioned in an earlier post, that could be my problem. I noticed after I bought the car that there is a leak (water) somewhere in the rear of the car that causes the passenger side rear footwell to "puddle-up" a bit. How hard is it to pull the rear interior trim pieces off to take a look?? Do I have to pull the back seat out?? I'm thinking of it's not a fuse it's gotta be a salt water gunked-up realy box. Again, I'm working around the no autobelts for now but would like to fix it (and the leak) when we get some warmer weather.

    Thanks again!!

     

    Sean

  6. Okay, I looked in the owners manual and there is no mention of a fuse for to Auto Seat Belts. Neither side is working (they did up until today) so I figured it must be a fuse. It's a 1992 Loyale Wagon. Any help would be appreciated. I know, I hate 'em too, but with the seat belt law here in Wisconsin they've save my butt a few times. Not to mention in a crash situatuation. Thanks guys!!

     

    goatcheez

  7. I don't miss it at all!! Runs Great!! Got the tailgate fixed, put new tires on her, fixed the heat, scrubbed the interior, put rear wiper blade on, got the AC working without the homemade switch, adjusted the driver's door, got a lead on a new "stock" rear bumper, ordered new bushings for the shifter, and had exhaust fixed with new cat. Nope I don't miss her at all. Milemaker, if you ever want to take her for a spin, you know where to find me. :)

     

    goatcheez

  8. Huge PAIN IN THE BUTT. Sorry dude. Those things suck to repair. Last one I messed with I ended up just lubing it up real good (was rusted) even though I had a replacement because I couldn't get the old one out.

     

     

     

    It's a trade off. It comes down to this: It's a 3 hour operation to change the belts WITH the covers in place, or a 20 minute job without. I've personally run many thousands of miles without issue - just make sure all the splash pans are in place. Will it shorten their life? Not unless something gets stuck IN the belts - I dropped a rag in them once :rolleyes: for example. But keeping the covers on means that oil can't get out, and that will break down the rubber on them too. For me personally I would will gladly trade the small potential for failure for the ease of replacement that no covers afford. But it's a hotly debated topic around here, and there is no correct answer - it's a personal preference thing and depends a lot on where you are, and what you are doing with your rig.

     

    As to putting them back on - I would move the alternator and compressor out of the way. It's only 4 bolts and makes the job infinitely easier. If the rear covers are not in place you will have to remove the crank pulley to put those back. If you do put them on use zip-ties on the front outer covers as that's the only way to avoid breaking the plastic around the capture nuts the next time you take them off.

     

    GD

    I'll just leave the covers off then...at least 'til summer.

     

    Back to the tailgate handle. The mechanism seems to be in place and working just fine except for the missing handle. Is it just a matter of swapping handles or do I have to dismantle the whole thing?? I will be using this car to haul quite a few things, I need to have tailgate working. Is there a way to "rig-it" to work without a stock handle? Again I haven't had a good look at it yet, I just wanna get an idea of what I'm in for.

     

    Again, thanks for the help!!

     

    goatcheez

  9. Looks like the coolant system was low. Topped it off and bled it out (no problems) and heat is working. Won't roast you out of the car but better than I'm used to. Also, no more "water gushing" noise from under the dash. I double check it again tomorrow when I have some daylight.

     

    Gotta get the exhaust checked this week too so I can take it in for emissions. It's a little loud up by the motor. Had same problem with my last soob and I'm lucky enough to have an exhaust shop in town (mom & pop place - cheap) who knows these cars very well.

     

    Anyone ever deal with the handle on the tailgate?? Milemaker had it break off and I need to replace it. I was just gonna pull it off my old soob. I this a pain in the a%% or an easy fix?? Trim cover is already off and all the mechanics are there just haven't had a chance to take a look.

     

    Okay one more for now. Milemaker left the timing belt covers off when checking the t-belts. Could this cause problems with water and road salt getting in there?? I have the covers. Can I put them back on without pulling the AC compressor, fan, alternator etc out of the way??

     

    Thanks again for all your help!! I'm sure I'll have more questions to come...

     

    goatcheez

  10. They don't always fail the same. The EA82's have a LOT of assorted cooling system deficiencies. Your past experiences are only of *some* help - remember this is a different car.

     

    GD

    Point taken. I wish we weren't in the middle of a winter storm and I'd take a peek. Thanks for the info.

     

    goatcheez

  11. Sounds like you are leaking or burning coolant. #1 is to fill it up and figure out which one. If you are burning it then you might have either an intake manifold gasket leak (common) or possibly a small HG leak.

     

    If it's leaking fix the leak - check the common stuff - intake manifold gaskets, and the smaller coolant hoses running to the TB, etc.

     

    Your shifter bushings come from the dealer only. You'll want to replace all of them as it's only around $25 or so for the collection.

     

    GD

     

    $25 dollar bushings...no problem. How hard is the fix?? Do i have to drop the tranny or just pull the shift boot??

     

    goatcheez

  12. Check your coolant level first. There is only one way the air in the system sound can get worse, and it aint pretty.

     

    Top off the coolant (slowly pour it in) with the engine hot, running, and warmed up (thermostat open). Of course remove the cap to the radiator with the engine cold.

     

     

     

    nipper

     

    PS bubbles bad.

     

    Nahh. Had the same problem on my old Loyale. Replaced radiator cap first (quick $5 dollar fix) Blew the lines out with compressed air - tons of gook poured out (somebody used stop leak), Finally bled the air out of the system and all was good. The heater core was shot but no more "gushing".

    If I remember right it was something like putting the front end up on ramps and popping the the radiator cap till the bubbles stopped. I just don't remember specifically. I'd try it now if we weren't getting this freezing rain crap. Anybody else??

     

    goatcheez

  13. I just bought Milemaker's Loyale. Runs like a top!! He also threw ina bunch a extra parts too. Cool. But....

     

    Question for the "experts". Car blew good heat when I test drove her but on my 2 hour ride home heat basically stop blowing hot. Also the notorious "water gushing" sound from under the dash seemed to get increasingly worse. Milemaker had told me that the car had been sitting for a couple months so I'm wondering if air got into the coolant system. He also said the heat worked great. I have no reason to doubt him. What was the proceedure again for bleading the system?? Any other thoughts on what this could be. Car is in normal operating temp but no heat.

     

    Oh, one more (for now). Shifter is really sloppy. Goes into gear great but has avery sloppy feel to it. Milemaker said that bushings are the culprate. What bushings and where do I get replacements??

     

    I plan I keeping this one going to 300,000 just like my last Loyale. Just gotta get a few glitches fixed. Any help would be appreciated.

     

    Thanks guys!!

     

    goatcheez

  14. Yep, I bought her. Runs like a top :).

     

    Question for the "experts". Car blew good heat when I test drove her but on my 2 hour ride home heat basically stop blowing hot. Also the notorious "water gushing" sound from under the dash seemed to get increasingly worse. Milemaker had told me that the car had been sitting for a couple months so I'm wondering if air got into the coolant system. He also said the heat worked great. I have no reason to doubt him. What was the proceedure again for bleading the system?? Any other thoughts on what this could be. Car is in normal operating temp but no heat.

     

    Oh, one more (for now). Shifter is really sloppy. Goes into gear great but has avery sloppy feel to it. Milemaker said that bushings are the culprate. What bushings and where do I get replacements??

     

    I plan I keeping this one going to 300,000 just like my last Loyale. Just gotta get a few glitches fixed. Any help would be appreciated.

     

    Thanks guys!!

     

    goatcheez

  15. False alarm!! Gloyale is the winner by diagnosing, sight unseen, as a hose gone bad!! It was just a small hose coming off the heater core with a little pin-prick hole that only leaked under pressure. Tricky little bugger to track down. A $5 part. Gotta love it when it's this easy. Thanks again for all your help!! You guys rock!!

     

    goatcheez

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