ClutchCrusher
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Posts posted by ClutchCrusher
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both parts can only fit one way, I tried turning the switch around but no, it has ribs that will only allow one position. Is there anyone who has had this problem before?with all this collected knowledge it's hard to believe no one can give some HINT as to what I did wrong. C'mon it's really gonna hurt my pride to have to go to a locksmith.
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I just put in a new lock cylnder, not that tough, pulling the plasitcs to get to it were worse. Ok, so now what did I or didn't do, the key seems to be in the ON and LOCK posistions at the same time. Key out, wheel locked, the LOCK position right? Insert key and rotate forward, all it seems to do is go forward into the momentary or the START position. What the hell? Please tell me what am I missing? did I break somthing? WTF?!
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really I have no Idea, I'm not kidding(I wish I were).
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Ok so now what did I or didn't I do? I have the brand new lock cylinder in, but now the key seems to be in the ON and LOCK posistions at the same time. Key out, wheel locked, the LOCK position right? Insert key and rotate forward, all it seems to do is go forward into the momentary or the START position. What the hell? Please tell me what am I missing?
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The lock comes off easy - get a pair of needle nose pliers, and tilt the column all the way down. You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off. I have a couple extra that I have scored from junk yards and such that happened to already have a key. They usually come off easy as there is no corrosion on those bolts being inside the car.
Get a replacement from the junk yard, note down the key code from the passenger door lock assembly, and have a key ground at your local dealer, or a lock smith. They can do it from the code for about $10.
GD
"You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off." Which bolts are you talking about? The ones under the cable things? those are the only ones left. And will I still have to pull the steering wheel?
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All of the mid '80's cars have ignition problems eventually. Your friend likely removed the key without turning the lock to off. Locksmith on the main drag in Redmond is where I go to have mine done; I had both lock cylinders replaced and keyed to match in my two '84 brats; pricey but I was tired of playing with the locks. You might try some tri-flo into the lock cylinder and hope you can release the steering lock (take the pressure off the steering lock by turning the wheel slightly one way or another while you try to turn the key in the ignition and get it back to normal). If you do need to call a locksmith try calling Aaron's Auto Wrecking in West Seattle and ask Tom or Brian if they can suggest a local locksmith to you.
The wheel isn't locking, I can turn the wheel all the way from left to right. When he came back it was in the "lock" position, still running, and the key wouldn't turn forward to "off". Although it would turn about halfway to "off".
He said once started he didn't mess with it untill he came inside saying "Dude, I can't get your car to turn off" He had to have done somthing. hhhhhmmmmm......
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DAMN! Thanks for the help, this is the last time I lend my car out. I don't know what my friend could have done, but when he brought the car back, it was running in the "lock" position, I disconnected the batt. and killed it with the clutch. I can slip the key in and get it halfway to the "off", but that's it. Any suggestions, or should I just consider it the worst case scenario and call a locksmith to come out and do it?
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I have the ignition switch out, but I also need to take out the part that the key fits into on the other side. That's the part I need to get out.
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I hves the Ignition switch out, but I also need to take out the part that the key fits into on the other side. That's the part I need to get out.
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How do I replace the ignition switch in my 86 hatch? I have the column pulled apart, do I have to pull the steering wheel? A step by step would really help.
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He's right. Brat, Coupe, Hatch - same doors. Wagon, Sedan - same doors.
Front seats are the same, front carpet, dash (except shifter console, and radio console), Window cranks, etc
Dash forward should near the same for mechanical stuffs.
GD
What years are compatable, just all ea81 models, and if so what years do they run?
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When is this thing going to happen? How much for the ea81 4''?
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I'd like to ask that same question. Does anyone know of a good site to get an OEM dash pad for my 86 hatch?
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Theres plenty of info on the EJ22's around here. Basiclly, your trans should hold up to a EJ22 N/A. If you like dumping the clutch, then maybe you should concider collecting old transmissions.
VERY new to Subies. 4spd. Man. 4X4 with the Hi-Lo in a 86 Hatch, what trans do I have? What years for the EJ22?
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What other Engines can I put in, EA82? How about one of those 2.2's out of some 90's cars? And if I was able to put in such a monster would my stock tranny hold up?
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I can still use the engine, dash, front seats, right? What else?
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I can still use the engine, dash, front seats, right? What else?
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I like the sensatracs a lot more than stock struts. There is only two years that have the adjustable struts. 85/86 had them. Anything newer is non-adjust. The adjustables were the first thing I took off my car and threw in the garbage. The front struts use nuts on all-thread to compress the spring a little bit. The back has a few notches that you could twist up. I'm not sure how high they went, but I think somewhere around an inch.
Do they just swap right in and is there anything I'll need to go along with the Sensatracs?
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How many different parts can I take(interior, exterior, mechanical, ect.), from a Fwd, auto, '84gl wagon, to use for my 4X4 '86 hatch? Interior mostly, but what all will fit? A kinda test-your-knowledge thing! C'mon who knows the most?
Things like doors, rear hatch, seriously I have no idea what will or won't fit.
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Where can I find NEW seals for the hatch on my hatch?
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That's what I thought, it makes more sense to lift the back more. How well do those body lifts work? Do the monroe sensatrac have that adjustable feature the stockers have? And how does that suspension adjust, anyway? How well do the stockers work? How high do they go?
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If it happens next week, count me in for a 4" EA81 standard lift.
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Does anyone have first hand knowledge of those BYB lift kits? Are they just a body lifts or a real suspension lift? What's with the kits with more lift in the front?
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The Monroes are much more expensive, is there that much of a difference? How hard is the install? Are there any extra parts I'll need, you know, "Don't reuse that", kind of thing? Any tips for a first timer? I've heard of the BYB site but is that just a body lift, or a true susp. lift?
Did I break it?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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thanks for the advice, it worked once when I had it all torn apart, so I'll just keep swingin' till I hit that home run I so desperatly want!