ryostyle_the_¥akuza

HAHAHA, said well. Start up enrichment under cold temperatures is off slightly, once warm not an issue. I'll be putting in a catch can this weekend and pulling the setup apart to inspect the mas.

Do a compression test. I went through all types of overheat problems, some of the culprits were bad water pump, bad bypass valve, bad thermostat, bad radiator, bad radiator hose, bad water hose to turbo, theres also a hose that goes from the thermostat housing to under the intake manifold, well it blew up.....lol. Slight cuts in a hose can do horrible things. Just take your time and You'll figure it out.

Good point. I'll have to figure something out to address that. Thanks for bringing it up. Maybe I'll get a catch can for that.

Heres the Pix Boys, finally found some batteries.

No offense taken. I completely understand. I'm going to try and get some pix of it today.

A bandaid? Well I tried zipties, but they just didn't seem to work in this instance so this is the best I could come up with. A blowthru setup is a blowthru setup, I didn't invent it, and I'm no innovator. Just hadn't seen it done before, and in this instance it fixed my venting based problems. Just passing what I've learned along. But I'm no Ben Franklin, if it DOA's my motor or does anything weird to my car I would tell you guys that too. I'm just basically looking at the things that worked effectively on other cars that can be applied to the RX. As far as bed wetting, ummm.....okay, I'm not going there.

Day 2, freeway driving and spirited cruising. Make sure your piping is beaded!!! Other than that, Everything is Excellent. I noticed the ecu during cold weather startup has the enrichment off slightly, within 1 minute its normal idle and normal operation. Running boost and venting has been perfect. No complaints, can't believe I did it sooner. I'll keep you guys posted.

I'll take pix later today of it. The HKS super sequential isn't a regular BOV. Its a pull type instead of spring type, because of this, it is not possible for it to leak under vacuum unlike the other bovs that leak at idle. BOV and Bypass valve same thing. Its just a matter of "Does your BOV recirculate or vent to the atmostphere" On the SSQ bov you can get a recirculating adapter.The whole point is, the choice is mine now, I'm not forced to do either one, it makes no difference now. And to answer the question, I picked up my HKS bov with my intercooler for only 75 dollars which is a steal!!! Not literally fortunately, but damn good the same.

I just made a blowthru setup on my 87 RX. I've been previously venting to the atmosphere and running pig rich during shifts. Thinking back to my Eclipse I thought about how I miss my GM blow through setup. At this point I had a few mods done. Cone air filter, exhaust, top mount intercooler with custom piping, and an hks ssq bov. I liked the shock that people got when they would hear my car vent, however, I hated the fact that I was passing a couple of cops the other day doing about 25 mph and shifted and my car popped from the richness between shifts. This of course drew their attention to me, and wasted a bunch of fuel. I went home and thought to myself, this is the last time. After kicking the idea around with subarutex I decided after work today to do it. Soooo......This is what I did. The goal: Move the mas sensor after the intercooler and before the throttle body. Doing this you can vent to the atmosphere without running pig rich, due to the fact that the air is metered after the blow off valve position. (everyone knows that if you vent and the mas stays in the stock position it dumps air into the atmosphere instead of into the engine, thus making your slow compensating ecu use an improper balance of fuel/air. Too much fuel, too little air and the car bogs.) Warning, attempt this at your own risk etc etc. Mine runs perfect but, if you mix up your wires, who knows what'll happen. 1) 1 at a time, I cut my mas sensor wires and extended them 2 ft and taped them up with electrical tape. 2) then I got (2) 2 1/2"- 3" silicon couplers 3) Using a universal Mas - Air filter adapter I connected the mas to the intercooler 4) next I connected the mas to a 90 degree bend using the 2 1/2"- 3" adapter 5) connect the 90 degree bend to the throttle body using the other 2 1/2" - 3" adapter 6) Connect your cone air filter to the stock intake inlet where the stock mas used to fit (this will require a 2 1/2" opening on the Air filter connection end 7) Lastly wrap the mas extention wires in electrical tape and route them in a safe location **side Note** There are 2 white wires in the factory mas harness, cut them before the shielding (they go into a shielded black wire). Don't be dumb and mix these wires up like I did, this is why I said to extend the wires in step 1, 1 at a time. No mixup all smiles. If you mix the wires up you will get a check engine light. So do it right and don't panic. So now that the blow through setup is complete, you can vent your heart out and not pop, not bog, and not run pig rich. Also as a cool side effect, if you blow your intercooler piping off, your car will still idle perfectly. Why? Because you moved the mas to before the throttle body and the car is still getting the right a/f ratio. Now you can calmly pull to the side of the road and fix your piping instead of your car dying in the middle of the road. Pictures to Follow. The only other thing I can think of to make this setup better is, Get the lip on the universal airfilter adapter beaded so you can clamp your piping down and not blow it off. This will be your weak spot in your setup. Special thanks to SubaruTex and SubaruJunkie!!

Actually its might not be the head gasket, it might just be the turbo going, either way it doesn't matter, I'll fix it and make it better. I can drive it without it ever getting warmer than normal, no biggie, I just stay off the turbo and everything is kool. I gotta do a compression check and find out how the motor is really doing. It only smokes when the car is cold and at Idle after it gets warm, no issues.

Just put the car in the shop yesterday to have it all checked out, new waterpump, and timing belts. The mechanic says I have a blown head. Any suggestions? I bought the car for 700, it has the typical rx rust, I've put an hks bov, tmic, and 2 row radiator, electric fan and greddy profec b specII boost controller. As of yesterday I spent another 700 just having the car checked over and routine maintenance. I'm upside down in it at the moment. Now I have a blown head and a bad cv boot. Should I dump the car or if not, what options do I have and is it worth it? I love the car by the way, just frustrated by it going south.

Well I think its quite obvious I need a new radiator. Today I was out in the car and it sprung a massive vapor leak on the radiator under the electric fan. The radiator was cool to the touch. I took off the radiator cap and the coolant came out and it was all lukewarm. Definitely going to buy another radiator. Thanks guys.

Cool thank you for the feedback everyone, I'll give it a try.

Okay forgot to mention. I already replaced my T-Stat. Put a fresh 180 degree t-stat. And my heat blows hot.

I have an 87 RX. I'm having problems with it heating up to about 75% on the temp gauge. So far I've replaced a faulty radiator cap, and tightened the drain plug as much as I can, changed my waterpump belts and replaced my radiator hoses. The radiator at all times is cool to the touch over the entire thing even when the car is getting too warm/hot. The drainplug housing drips. The accessory fan does kick on to cool the motor. I can feel the water boiling on the turbo feed line. And feel the water boiling in the waterhousing to radiator hose. The coolant is bubbling into the overflow bottle and overflowing. The waterpump is definitely not leaking. The only 2 places the car is leaking noticeable coolant is at the radiator drain plug, only in drips, and the overflow bottle. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.