Curtis1955

As far as the manuals, I have the CD manual that I got on eBay, which purports to be the same as the factory manuals. I don't have the Haynes manual for this model, yet. Thanks, again!

How did you retorque the crank pulley bolt without a special tool to hold the pulley?

A Subaru site says this-- http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf

Okay, I'm still not convinced I should risk a good running engine by doing the timing belt myself. This engine has 4 valves per cylinder, and they're driven by 4 camshafts, two camshafts on each side. The valves, which are small and delicate, can hit each other, not just the pistons. The valve spring pressure can turn the camshafts when the timing belt is removed, if a camshaft tool isn't used. And I'm not adjusting the valves at this time, probably. So, "Other" Skip and whoever is kind enough to read and respond to this, does this sound like the kind of job you'd risk? Is this multi-valve engine identical to yours?

Did you work with the engine removed? I certainly don't want to screw up a good engine--but I've done a few timing belts on other vehicles with success. Including a 1989 XT6, which may have had similarity to the Forester.

Well, I'll repeat myself. I've read recently (on the Subaru Endwrench) that valve spring pressure will cause the cams to rotate and damage the valves on this engine. Was your engine the DOHC (mine is)?

Thanks for the reply. My information says that the camshafts will turn, causing valve collision, if they aren't held fixed. The Subaru Endwrench website shows tools that hold the camshafts, as well as a special crankbolt wrench. Also, that site says NOT to use a bench vise to compress the tensioner--that a press must be used, along with a pressure guage that keeps you from using more than 66 pounds force on the tensioner. Comments? I'm aware that this engine is trickier than older ones that weren't interference.

My Forester has 107k miles--I bought it earlier this year with 102k miles. So it's due for a timing belt and valve adjustment. Anyone familiar with these tasks? My info makes it look quite difficult and requiring special tools. But the local shops/dealer want big bucks, saying that a water pump replacement, oil pump reseal, and crankshaft seal are justified at the same time. I thought I got a great deal on this rig at $7200, but after a new windshield and an air bag light fix ($400-plus), it's not such a bargain.