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watson524

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Posts posted by watson524

  1. Good tip on the car parts but not posting, just might do that.

     

    And the 2015 should be great. Amazing what all the new "fancy" stuff it has :) It'll be my husbands. He took my 99 back in late 2010 when I got a Honda Pilot tho I can easily see me going back to a Subbie when I'm done with the Pilot, and since I tend to keep cars a long time, it might be the 2015 Subbie that I end up in when the time comes :)

  2. Yep, we ordered the new one last nite with no trade. Just not worth it for us to mess with it. Thought I had a bite on it but the guy wanted to give me something ridiculously low (even after I came down in price) and then when I wouldn't go lower told me he had to come to wherever I was (Craig's list ad tells where I am) and haul it away. Yeah not exactly my problem when you're shopping for a car that's advertised as "bad engine, doesn't run".

  3. Valve cover came off. I think it must have loosened over nite :)

     

    Anyway, cylinders 1 and 3 both appear goofed up (which the compression sort of already told us). The stop point for turning the engine is visible where the cam lobe on 3 comes around to meet the valve. I have to do some more research on the timing marks because there for some reason are two on the top sprocket of the passenger side. When we get one lined up with the notch on the cover, the driver side isn't lined up and we can't line the driver side up because of the "stop point". 

     

    Still not sure if it jumped time or what the heck happened but I'm going to try to source a bore scope and have a look down in there to see if we can see a bent valve or something. Don't really want to take the head off at this point unless we get motivated when we see what we see with the bore scope.

  4. Well the saga continues. At this point it's more to find what the heck the issue is than to actually fix it.

     

    Compression on drivers side cylinders front and back (2 and 4) is 85 and 100 respectively. On the passenger side, 0. Doesn't even move the gauge. Ok so we took off the timing belt inspection cover and the other cover on the driver's side and the belt looks fine (as it had before but our friend wanted to see it). Put a bar on it and turn it by hand to watch things..... turns left to a certain point, then stops. Like no budging makes it go. Same after a certain point to the right. Now apparently the starter is strong than we are so now we're thinking it skipped time (tho there's no slack in the belt and it's in good shape) and let valve and piston collide.

     

    Ok it's Friday afternoon and why not pull the passenger side valve cover and see what's what. 5 bolts off. Bottom rear bolt will NOT come off. Tried everything possible and it just will not budge. I am wondering if whatever flew off the tracks is up near the bolt and has it jammed up (is that even possible??). So my husband's friend is coming back tomorrow and they'll try some other things. Getting on this one bolt is particularly hard but there's no way it should be this tight.

  5. Thanks for the info! Tomorrow will be very telling then. To me, the engine sounds totally normal as its cranking just that it's not catching. We have a Mexican VW Bug (2003) with a very high tech (LOL!) security system in it. You have a little wand thing that you have to wave under the steering column to engage the circuit. If you don't, it turns and turns but won't catch. That's exactly how it seems with the Subaru right now.

  6. I want to revisit this one with you gurus if you don't mind. We have the car listed for sale, other than 2 scammers on craigs list, no bites. So we've been messing around with it. Drained the oil fully expecting to see metal shavings and chunks.... not a thing, clean as a whistle even after putting it through a strainer. What does this say? If it threw a rod, wouldn't you expect some shavings? We also took the cover on the front passenger side of the engine off and verified status of timing belt. In tact and spinning when you turn the key over. For giggles, we're going to do a compression test tomorrow - can someone tell me what compression should be for this engine? We are assuming we'll have low/no compression on at least one cylinder. 2 other theories that friends who are "car guys" have kicked around.... bad compression and no metal could mean that the timing belt skipped and caused valves to hit - i.e. valve job at a minimum and still pricey. If compression is ok then the other theory is that an ignition coil died (apparently there's two on this engine?) and those have gone "bang" when they die which would cause car not to start.

     

    Any thoughts on the validity of all this? We figure while the car is sitting in the driveway, might as well play around with it and a compression test is easy enough to do.

  7. I think what we're leaning towards is putting it on Craigs list for $700 and see how it goes for a week or so (we have other vehicles that my husband can use - darn he'll have to drive the Miata as a daily driver for a while). Then if nothing, decide if we'll spend the money on the engine, tires and windshield and run it a while or just cut ties to it. If anyone is interested, we're in Northeast PA.

  8. Thanks for the thoughts. I'll have to start looking for motors and decide what we want to do. Thankfully we won't pay much in labor for the swap if we do it since we know a guy that works on cars (and races other cars) and has a shop (and just changed a motor on his 97 subaru - he said he'd help us out).

     

    Would it be wise to change head gaskets on a motor we bought? Trying to think of other "incidental" costs that would be involved here.

     

    Also on a used engine, what's a "good" mileage range? I'm finding a few 2.2s locally but I don't know what's acceptable

  9. 1999 SUS with 260k on it. Kept up on maintenance as far as oil changes, timing belt, water pump etc. Due for inspection in November and would need new windshield (star crack went to side and in PA that's a no no) and tires as well as some muffler work. Had head gasket done at about 180k miles. Figured we'd put the money into it for this year to get more time out of it and then think about a new one. Body is in good shape, some rust but very minor. Interior is in above average shape.

     

    Last nite driving home my husband heard a loud bang, lost all power and it died. Won't turn over. My guess when I got there was it threw a rod (there looked to be a bit of oil around the one plug tho I wasn't convinced it was fresh).

     

    Had it towed to mechanic, he said piston went and the engine is shot. I'm not entirely sure how he determined this (bore scope in the cylinder or what). What would you do or what are the options? Mechanic is saying take the about $200 and scrap the car. I really don't want to do that. My thought was that if block was ok, could it be fixed enough to get it to car dealer for a trade in (possibly $1,800 - $2,000) or is it really just not worth it and scrap is the way to go.

     

    This was the first car I ever bought and paid for myself as new so there's sentimental attachment that I'm trying not to let come into (too much) play here.

     

    thanks!

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