cartell

Interesting, I'll think about that while I have a bath tonight...

In reply to 85Sub4Wd, thanks for your help - whilst you where replying I went and played with the choke for a while - and then it all came clear. I adjusted the black plastic turnsytle, and did up the screws. I'll wait until the motor cools down over night then have another crack at it in the morning. That anti chug device still baffles me, and I wonder if that EVAP cannister is like the boost bottle I had on my old 2 stroke Yamaha IT200, but I'll get over these issues after the first beer (5am Sat night here). Oh, and yes, our carbs are different down here - they are designed to work upside down. Cheers, Dave

Can anyone help with the following problem on my 87 ‘L’ series S/wagon, 1800 (non turbo): From reading the workshop manual, there are two main parts that affect the operation of the automatic electric choke on Hitachi Carburettors. Heres what I know about these parts: 1. HEATER ELEMENT & BI-METAL SPRING: Heat generated by the heater element under the bi metal spring in the choke housing causes this bi metal spring to contract and rotate the choke lever, thus gradually opening the choke valve as the engine warms up. 2. AUTO CHOKE SOLENOID: Directly underneath the black round choke housing is a solenoid(?). This solenoid is supplied with 12Volts on start and run (the same 12Volt supply also powers the heater element in the choke housing on start and run). I can see what this solenoid is supposed to do - by way of a set of small linkages that push a small rod, its job is to ensure that the choke valve stays in the open position once the motor warms up. It would appear that this solenoids ability to operate is dependant upon the heater element/bi-metal spring having had sufficient time to warm up and begin opening the choke valve - only then can the solenoid work. HERES THE PROBLEM: On my car this solenoid doesn't seem to be doing anything, and hence the choke valve is staying slightly closed when the motor has fully warmed up. If I push the small solenoid operated rod by hand (this is the rod that goes into the auto choke housing, and forces the choke valve open), it opens the choke valve fully and the car runs properly. There is 12 Volts getting to the solenoid, and the solenoid coil reads 3 ohms (thought this was bit low for a coil?). I figure that if there is power to the solenoid coil and the coil reads 3 ohms, it should operate and push the small rod and this is what I don't understand. The heater element/bi metal spring is working fine and opens the choke about 75%, as the motor warms up but why isn't this solenoid doing its job and opening the choke valve fully? Can someone verify what this solenoid is supposed to do, what might be wrong with it and how to fix it? Also, at what position should the choke valve be in when the motor is stone cold – fully closed, or slightly open?