outback96
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Posts posted by outback96
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Also,
if the Thermostat needs to be replaced, anyone know what the part number is so I can search online. thanks
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Have a 96' Leg. outback with a 2.5L engine auto trans. and 186,000 miles on the car. The other day I was driving in the mountains of N. Georgia when I noiced the temp. raising a little. I never allowed the engine to overheat, I pulled over and ckecked all fluids. The oil was a little low, have slow leak around valve covers, added some oil and coolant was fine. Drove a little further, same deal. The temp. guage never got above 3/4 but would move between normal and 3/4. Again there is no loss of fluid. What has been done already.
Less than a year ago, replaced raditor from Subaru and all hoses. rountine oil change
the past few days have driven the car around town, enough to have the engine temp. rise to normal, and no movement with the guage now.
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hey everyone, been awhile since I've been on, but I have and issue with my 96' Outback's doors. On the Driver side, front and rear, the doors won't stay open regardless of the incline. This problem is driving my wife crazy as she tries to put our daughter in her car seat with holding the door open with one leg and using the other to balance herself. Please help. I figured that there would be a part to be replaced and that I would have to get that from a dealer? Any one know the part # to look for on line. The other issue is with the front breaks. I replaced both pads and drums but still have a squeal -bad. any thoughts.
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Subaru can't tell you what size they are? i don't think they varied that much by model/year. i know all the EJ rear extension housings are interchangeable so it shouldn't be that hard to figure out for the dealer at least.
how about getting a used extension housing from another one, that's probably what i'd do. taking care of the tires and fluid changes and they shouldn't give you any problems.
you have torque bind i assume? you've tried a couple ATF changes and all your tires match?
yea, I have tried changing out my ATF and that helped a little, however, would not clear the problem out. All tires are the same and are within an 1/16 inch of each other, which I thought was pretty good.
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I am trying to order the transfer clutch pack for the rear extension housing and don't know what size to order. Is there an easy way of finding out the measurements of the clutches without having to open up the housing first? Or is this a work now and order later project.
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I need to replace the clutch pack at the rear of my '96 Outback transmission and was able to come across the dealer part number. So I contacted a few local dealers and gave them the part number; one dealer quoted me $144.00 for the part and another one $23.12. What's up with that. I had the dealer confirm that the part number matched the clutch pack that I was needing, sure enough its the right one. Does any one know why there was such a difference in price.
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I just replaced the radiator and hoses on my 96 L 2.5. But don't know how to burp the sys. to get all of the air out. What i have done so far. is replace all coolent, started car with radiator cap off. and would add coolent as needed. After no more needing to add. coolent i took her out for a short ride, car responded normal and temp. never got above the normal rang. Is that all there is?
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I had a question regarding my '96 Outback's final drive gearing and was able to call the local dealer, give my VIN # and they were able to look it up accordingly. Don't know if that helps.
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Hey thanks y'all for the great suggestions. As I was looking at the radiator I noticed that there was some dried coolant on the right side. my upper and low hose needed to be replaced anyways, so i removed the radiator and found a 4inch long crack on the right side. My guess is that the crack was just big enough that when the sys. became pressurized that coolant would leak from here and spray over the right side of my engine. Any suggestions on the best way to fix the small crack? Or should I buy a new radiator? thanks
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was wondering if anyone knew how to test the coolant sys. for pressure in order to fine a small leak. I was speaking to the shop I normally take my cars to when I can't fix them myself, he said that he would do a pressure test on the sys. to locate where the leak is. Was wondering if there was a real costly tool involved with that, or if it was something that I could myself.
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On the topic of oil changes, has anyone found the "best" oil for our engines? I've had friends have all the seals changed in theirs engines and started to use a heavier weight oil as a result. just thought I'd ask some of the pros.
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If I may jump in here. I have a '96 outback with 174k on her and just noticed that my value cover gaskets have an ever soooo slow leak. now i've watched this thing and put a cloth under the car and there is no droping at all. i've checked the dip-stick and i'm not losing any oil either. should i replace the gaskets or not? and If I need to, is this something that I can do myself or something that i want to leave to the pros. I have rebuilt engines before, so I feel comfortable doing the work.
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sounds like torque bind is what's going on with my subrau. Should i start buying parts and just jump right in with repairing the extension housing? Or should I take it into a transmission shop and let them figure it out? What's my next step. Currently the fues is in FWD and car drives great w/out problems, however, the reason why i got a subaru is for the AWD.
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The "clutch pack" is the system of plates in the back end of your tranny that couples power to the rear driveshaft. It is hydraulically activated (via a modulator valve that is switched by something called the Duty Solenoid C) and during normal operation it is switched on and off to give variable power coupling to the rear end. Both the clutch plate assembly and the Duty Solenoid C are inside the rear extension housing of your transmission. It is the bolt-on piece of the tranny housing that the rear drive shaft sticks out from. If either the solenoid has failed, or if the clutch plates are heat-bonded or galled such that they are stuck together, then power goes to the rear end 100% of the time. When power goes both to front and rear on dry pavement, and when you turn, so the amount of rotation of front and rear tires is different, then you get "torque bind."
Wayne Boncyk...thanks for the information. that really helps me understand what's going on. talking with y'all has actually been more help than speaking to the dealership. Thanks alot.
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sounds like it's binding.
make sure all your tires are the same size and the tread is similar.
change your ATF.
after that you're looking at replacing the clutch packs or rear extension housings or entire transmission.
look up "torque bind" on the forums here, TONS of information on this.
hey, thanks for the info. all of the tires are the same size and kind. also, I have already replaced the ATF but still no immprovement. haven't heard of "clutch packs" or the "rear extension housing." what do these parts do? and where are they located within the driveline?
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hello to all, I am a new Subaru Outback owner with a '96 outback that when the car is in AWD mode there is a knock and noise coming from both rear tires. I have had the rear diff. checked and everything works fine. both rear axles have been replaced too, so I'm afraid to ask what else it could be. The car drives great with the fuse in FWD mode. So before i take it into the dealer wanted to see if anyone could help. thanks.
Cooling issues
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
less than a yr. ago the radiator was replaced with a new cap. the complete assembly came new from Subaru. To my knowledge the Timing belt, water pump, etc. are the original - I have not replaced them. I bought the car 1 1/2 years ago with 173,000 miles on it - it now has 186,000.
What website is the best for picking up genuine Subaru parts?
What is the Thermostat part number for the 96'
Thanks,