raverjames21
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Posts posted by raverjames21
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HUH?! LOL, miles, it is fixed. No problems other than the ones that cant be fixed at this moment. Just found out the dash is falling apart and sometimes the tach doesnt work.throttle position sensor -
I fixed it. Turns out there was like no coolant in the radiator. I filled it up and the problem was gone when I drove it around the neighborhood. I checked for burning in the exhaust and no burning coolant smell was coming from the rear of the car. The smell came from the engine where the clamp had been removed from the reservoir tank hose(where connected to the radiator). I reclamped and no more leaks, no more burning smell, and best of all no more hesitation and bucking.Have a block check done and you will know the story then. It is not expensive to do. You may have a intake manifold leak causing this also. Make sure the coolant doesn't get low. Check your fuel filters as they could cause this kind of thing. -
Doesnt sound like something a TPS would cause. The MAF is however a good possibility. I am gonna check mine.Hey guys, I dropped by Hopkin's and had Brian go on a test drive with me. He tightened the throttle cable, but I was able to still replicate the Problem for him. The stumbling only happens between 3700 and 4000 rpm's, very noticeable when cold under load, less so when warm. I actually had to shift into 1st gear at about 25 mph when warm, bring rpm's to 3800 under full accelleration, then when I back off the throttle, it starts to stumble. He surmises a bad TPS or the sensor located between the air filter housing, and the intake ( black plastic piece with a rectangle connector on the side). He thinks he might be able to get both used from a friend of his. After reading all the threads about this problem from other people, no one has brought these topics up. I guess I'll have to wait and see if either of these solve the problem. P.S. I added Baccaruda and Monstaru to my buddy list on this site, since you two are local boys. Hope that's okay. -
Mine has been with me for 3 different subaru's. I was hoping this car would be the reliable one.don't we all. i know i do<G> -
Sounds sorta like my problem, except I am smelling burning coolant and mine does not get better when engine is warm. When it does this it sounds like the engine isnt gonna make it but then at WOT it picks up and gains power again. My turbo GL wagon was doing the same thing but I was pretty sure it was a result of a cracked head or blown head gasket. Do you smell burning coolant. My problem seems to be much worse than what you are experiencing. I have an evil touch that causes cars to break unexplainably.
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Well I just bought the XT6 a week ago and the battery was dead on it, so I left it at Steve's for a week. Today I went to stick a battery in it and drive it the 30miles to morgantown and I noticed it was sputtering occasionally. This seemed to be similar to what happened to my old GL turbo wagon. I can smell the sweetness of coolant burning when it is running but there is no visible smoke coming out the exhaust or engine. The only way the engine runs smooth is if you floor the gas pedal or let it idle. If you try to give it half throttle it just sputters and gives no power. I am fearing this is a bad problem with the heads. It doesnt overheat but I think the coolant is way lower now. Does anyone know what is up??? I am sure this has happened to someone on this board before.
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yep, that set it off. Seems bfoxheadnetwork has to be on the end to set off what ever evil censor this forum has. Lets test other such words:
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Nope!
how about pub98.ezbïard.com/bfoxheadnetwork
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is pub98.ezboard.com a curse word here?
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Nevermind, that gets edited too. WTF is up with that.
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For the peope too slow to operat the web, my location under my username is the Subaru Alliance board address. As well as my homepage link below. Both work without a problem.
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I tested it with no remorse. BTW, what is wrong with gummi bear lovin?
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What is your email Fox? The video is 15 megs so let me know what you want me to do.
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Steve's wagon works, my wagon works, it is just too good to be true. I have a video of the first start up if someone can host it.
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Originally posted by blacklabel
alright.. i got a good list of things to start with and ive found stuff online that will work. this will set me back some $$ but its worth it. Will changing out the carb be very hard? should i have a pro do it? thanks for all the advice and keep it comin
If you have some mechanical know how it is simple to swap the carb. Stock carb is simple to remove/install and the weber has even less to it than the stock. If you are the type of person that goes to the grease monkey to have your oil changed I would not suggest you attemp the job. Maybe the best thing is for you to meet up with someone who has done a carb swap before. This way nothing gets messed up and you gain some experience.
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Thank you Steve for your determination in getting my car running. I would have given up long ago. Time for new plugs!
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I hope you guys are right. I would hate for the car to have another problem, especially now that Steve needs it as his primary transportation. I will probably go help him out as soon as my food digests a little. Thanks.
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Originally posted by All_talk
Hey Guys
I have a ’87 4WD wagon with the 3-wire carb (no ECU).
All three wires are power, the bowl vent solenoid and anti-diesel solenoid power on with the key, the choke power is only on if the engine is running, get a test light or meter and check them. I going to guess from your description that the 2 wire ADS has a power and ground lead.
I would switch the single wire ADS and 3 wire harness to the new carb, assuming the solenoid will fit. If not splice in the 3-wire plug or some individual insulated blade connectors for the proper leads and ground one of the 2-wire ADS leads. You can test the operation of the ADS by jumping power to it, you should here it click.
If you blow a fuse you’ve done something wrong
Good Luck
Gary
I want to stay away from swapping solonoids since I never found out why my old carb did the things it did. I think I will wait for skip to find his wiring diagram before I try splicing stuff.
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Originally posted by Skip
Mark,
first, thanks for the quick reply.
The 02 should be in the "Y" pipe cat.
If the engine is out the wire should be an easy see.
(after you get the hood open -arf arf.)
The ECU will be under the steering column.
The trim panel will need removed.
Hate to put you through this, do you remember
by chance ever seeing a "Check Engine" light
when you turned the key on?
Only ECU equipped cars have these.
I have not heard back from Trogdor or James so maybe
they got it worked out.
So hold off on the "neck breaking" please.
Thanx for your help, but I havent fixed it yet. I had way too much work to do last night and class all today (engineering isnt easy). Trogdor's engine just gave out so now I need to fix it so he can drive something to work.
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http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/raverjames21/detail?.dir=/My+Photos&.dnm=27bd.jpg
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/raverjames21/detail?.dir=/My+Photos&.dnm=37b0.jpg
Wires. The 2 I have plugged in are choke and some other actuator. The 2 unplugged wires are to the solonoid.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/raverjames21/detail?.dir=/My+Photos&.dnm=8bde.jpg
Solonoid.
Car wont even star right now so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advanced.
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Originally posted by Snowman
E= voltage (electromotive force)
I= amperage
R= resistance
I'm referring to Ohm's law. There are different arrangements, I=E/R is just the one I use the most in class, so that's what came to mind first.
Where in the hell have you found E=voltage. V = voltage in every book I have. You classes must not be engineering classes because out of 3 books I have, not one has E as voltage. That is why I was confused. E is usually used as energy or in strain/deformation equations. V=IR is a good equation but needs to be modified if something is in parallel.
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Originally posted by Skip
Raver, you do not give enough information.
With the little info you give I will not hazard a guess as to the wiring, I'm sorry.
Get a picture, find it in a manual where ever.
I will not have you shorting or causing other electrical problems around a bowl full of gas.
You are welcome, and good luck.
That is why I asked if you knew the difference between the 2 carbs. I dont even know where to begin to look for info on my new carb. It was purchased from lostwater and I have no Idea what it came out of. I am sure someone on this board has a car with the 4 wire carb. I might need to see if lostwater has any info on it.
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Originally posted by Skip
Well, the ADS (Anti Diesel Solenoid) shuts off the fuel to the idle circuit when the key is off.
This is intended to prevent the engine from
"running on" after turning it off.
The ADS should get battery voltage when the key is in the "run" position.
Hope this helps
So how would one wire it in since this carb has 2 wires and my old one had one? Do you know the difference between the 2 carbs?
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Originally posted by Skip
Raver, is this "sensor" as you call it,
one of the two items shown in this picture?
Looks kinda like the anti diesel solonoid. Mine isnt quite that large but similar. I thought it was a sensor as it looks like the 02 on my Nissan.
Help! My XT6 is running like poop
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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