STUBABREW
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Posts posted by STUBABREW
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Well had some time to tinker and allthough the shop was convinced that the carb was the issue..... I changed the fuel filter and wala it has power and no hesitation.
I changed the filter under the passenger rear back side. I cannot locate the other one in the engine compartment.
I am a little confused any help would be greatly appreciated
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Thank you all for the input that you have given. I am making slow but sure progress on this issue.
The idle seemed to be a bit low (lean) 500 to 700RPM at idle
I raised the idle to 1000 to 1200 and it seems to be a little more responsive.
I still get the hesitation but it starts at 55 to 60 mph. If i back out of the gas a bit when it is doing that it seems to get better.
My question now is. Is there a Diagram for vacumme hoses to see if they are all going to the appropriate places.
Is it still needing a rebuild of the carb as the mechanic said?
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Shop said, the the 2nd barrel was clogged and I have it set lean
i have used seafoam in the tank and down the throat. can travel at 55 now befor the hesitation
My quetion is if there is a vaccum issue would it affect the 2 barrel from opening properly?
at what speed or RPM does the 2 barrel usally open ?
My guess is the tranny.If you are winding it up to 4500 RPM and it's not shifting, it's has to be either vacuum-related, or mechanical within the tranny. This may not be as bad as it seems. Sometimes, replacing the modulator or servicing the governeor solves the problem.
I had these symptoms recently, and unfortunately for me, the tranny itself was shot. But it well-worth giving it a try. There is a good write-up on reconditioning the governer gear on this Board.
One other bit of advice: don't run your motor too hard if you feel it losing power on the freeway (isn't shifting up properly). I went up pretty high (5000-5500k), and now the motor is starting to make low end noises. Don't risk trashing your motor over a stupid 3AT.
good luck, John
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Is this a straight forward process? how much deconstruction is involved? Not a mechanic at all
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I guess no answer exsists or it a lost cause
Any know websites that deal in refurbished OEM carb on a 87 3at carb
is $400 for a rebuild normal?
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What is expected price on a Carb rebuild on an 87 4wd wagon?
Am in the Tacoma / Olympia area of Washington
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Which tranny Brew?
I don't think fuel is your problem...
John
it is the 3 speed Auto
I am now only having issues in the AM. Seem to run like a top after small bout with the hessitation.
I can feel it shift into all gears but it seems to shift into second at 4500 rpm
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I filled the tank with higher octane gas from the station i was using and seemed to be better but still is hesitating.
It is a carburated engine with 189k
Note. I did perform a search but did not find anything that matched my symptoms
It sat while was at work and came out at lunch and took it for a drive and performed great on the little rod trip and the entire way home.
This AM i had only a small bout with it when it was cold and then was great.
I guess the mid grade "better Gas is what she likes"
Idle in The AM ( first start is extreamly low ) and needs a while to warm up.
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Have a 87 Subaru S/W that experiences hesitation at about 40MPH it feels like it's loosing power and then hit the accellerator and the RPMs will jump up to 5 grand and then back to 3 grand and hang out there not giving any more power. I was wondering if it is an octane thing as I had the issue before my Tbelts went out then after was using gas that i normally didn't use and had no issue. On a road trip I put the safeway gas in and it has not performed right since. I filled the tank with higher octane gas from the station i was using and seemed to be better but still is hesitating.
It is a carburated engine with 189k
Note. I did perform a search but did not find anything that matched my symptoms
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Got Spark
Got Gas
Damn TBelts Will take covers off in better NW Weather.
So is hesitation at speed a indicator that they are going? ( kinda lurching )
So is this easy enough for a Short bus mechanic ( me) or beter served having a shop doing? how much typically?
Feel like the picture in the photo section that the mechanic had written poor sucker on the inside of the cover.
Guess i should feel grateful i do not have ant A/C to Deal with
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Take off the two covers on the left and right of the engine!!! really you will only need to takeoff the left side (using Drivers side as left) if thats not off broken check the tension and see if its tight... i dont mean Super stiff but make sure that it wont flap around... while the cover is off have a buddy crank it for you and makesure that its moving! Do you hear your fuelpump??? tell your buddy to either crank it or cycle the key on and off while you lay under the car listening to the pump... if you cant hear it put your hand on it and try to feel it vibrate... and if you really want to test it.. take off a fuel line and cycle the key and see if it squirts out! PHEW im tired!
The Tbelt covers can be removed to check breakage w/o dimantling the entire front of the car correct?
Looked at Prccedure in HTKYSA and they said removing or replacing took special tools right.
Are their indicators other than 180k on the engine that these items may break?
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ok you need 3 things for a car to run - spark fuel and compression. Check to see if spark is coming from the coil, if not check if it is getting power... if it is distributor is suspect. Check your ignition timing. Check your compression, low compression may indicate tbelt slipped/broke. Check for fuel, sounds like you have fuel though. Backfiring through the carb would indicate that either something is up with valve or ignition timing.
I'm still a newb as far as engine tuning goes but those are the basics... others should be able to expand on that but that should give you a start.
Whats the metallic sound you are talking about in the thread title?
The metalic sound comes from flywheel housing. ( probally always made the sound but could not here over the engine)
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Does not seem to spin faster
Insert Stoopid question here. TBelt is located in front correct?
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Is the turnover speed faster than normal? Maybe the TBelt popped off or snapped.
Does not seem to spin faster
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87 Carbed 4Wd 3speed auto
Parked car no problemes
came out next AM and turn the key and it sounds like it wants to start but does not.
Took air filter top off and check to see if anything cloging th carb. Nothing appears to there. try starting it with air cleaner top off and got backfire through the carb.
Came home and checked out distributor, spark plugs, both seamed to be dry no condensation and solid connections.
Now when i try to start it, It just turns with out any hope of turning the engine over. I do get a small pop in the Carb if I pump the gas pedal.
Any further hints would be welcomed
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ignorant person here! Where would i find this on my 87 GL 4WD wagon.
Having Hesitation but will go away after a time. seems to be worse soon after start up and going up hills
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When / How should the diff oil ( the 1 under the spare in an 87 GL 4WD) under be checked
A. Cold No engin running in Park
B. At idle in Park
C. At idle in N
D. warmed up in Park
E. Warmed up in N
Thank you in Advance
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4000 actually sounds too low for 75mph. 3200-3600 at 60mph is normal.
Really Wow It did not sound like the car was working hard (reving) but i never have had a car travel / cruise at that high of RPM
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Looking for ( straight forward repair manual ) I believe that there used to be like a "dummies guide" for my old 82 subaru
Was looking for the same or equiv. for my 87 DL 4WD
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Thank you.
I hope that this is the issue. is there a book that you can recommend to help complete the job?
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I just purchased the above car and all gears work well except it worn't shift into 3rd gear
it shifts into second at 3500 RPM and about 35 MPH
but will not shift again @ 75 mph and 4000 RPM I don't want to push it and break something
AT transmission Fluid is at appropriate level
The diff level looks low.
Are there any adjustment to be done w/o taking it out ?
Very limited on $$
AT OIL TEMP Light ON (Causes/Fixes) 87 Ea82 188K
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Well with much faith I took my 87 Soob on a road trip to montana from washington. On the way back I had the AT TEMP light come on. I was driving about 75 to 80 MPH ( 4500 RPM ) it came on it was about 90degrees in high desert. I stopped and checked the fluid level and it seemed a little low so I add a little and drove on where the light again came on when I hit 75. I again stopped for a bit and then drove at 65mph and it did not come back on for a while.
Was this due to the high temp and extended driving of a road trip or something else that is going onand can be addressed.
The light did not come on today on my 30mile trip at freeway speed into worl this AM
87 GL Wagon 4wd 3at
188K
Thanks for the imput