mfolsom
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Posts posted by mfolsom
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My headlights are very fogged up on the inside and I can't seem to find replacements. Has anyone retrofitted sealed beam headlights into a composite headlight system? Mine are so fogged on the inside that I have to run high beam just to see at night. It doesn't even seem to bother oncoming traffic.
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I don't post often but always turn to USMB when my 85 GL Wagon acts up. Thanks to all who post problems and solutions.
Sunday we were on the way to the grocery store in the Sub when it just quit running. I was able to turn in to a driveway safely and started to look for a problem. The car would crank but not fire. I pulled a plug wire and cranked the engine but there was no spark. There was nothing more I could do on the side of the road so the nice folks that lived where I stopped gave me a ride home.
The next day a friend helped me tow the car home and I began looking into why it would not start. The distributor was turning when I cranked and there was compression on passenger side so that ruled out timing belts. I put a new coil on and it still would not start.
I had picked up an ignition module at the AutoZone when I picked up the new coil so the next thing was to install that. I had no idea how to change it so I took the distributor out and went to the workbench with it. In another thread on this board I found one little snippet about testing an ignition module.
"...you could put a small low current 12V bulb (so we're not talking about a headlight or tail light - just a Radio Shack 12V bulb) between the +12V and the output of the igniter. (envision hooking it up across the coil but taking the coil out of the circuit).If the bulb flashes when cranking, your igniter is ok. If not, it will take a little detective work to make sure that you indeed are getting a periodic input on the igniter."I tried that with the old module and nothing happened so I figured out how to remove the old and install the new. That part was very simple and I would not have had to take the distributor out if I had known it. I tried the little test above but it still did not work. I may have misunderstood the instructions. I did notice the light bulb lit very dimly this time.
I reinstalled the distributor, held my breath and turned the key. To my pleasure the car started up so I set the timing and all is well once again. What a great little car!
I hope others who have the same problem find this note and it helps them.
Mark
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Are these still available?
I'll take them if doubi2 doesn't want them.
I have a set of four alloy rims...premier type; I can ship them to you with lugnuts and center caps for $100 complete (ground shipping included in that price). The clear coat is peeling and they could certainly use re-finishing of some sort, but they are good working wheels. Here's a pic of one of the four; you can see the rest in my Stuff for Sale album in my photo section.
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They did offer to order them at the dealer here and it may come down to that. I checked 2 part numbers with them but at that time I was not sure about which one I needed. Now that I know, I can go back to them and order the parts.
I have a request in at RockAuto for availability and should hear something back today.
You've been a great help in determining the correct part number.
Thank you
Mark
Well, if stuck, you did say that one of those Subaru numbers crossed over to the WK1945, so with the Subaru number you can order one (or two) but they are "pricey" (typically 3X aftermarket). I did not check aftermarket availability, and can do so if you like (likely a week, there are not many Subaru cars here, though I have been surprised before).My dealer here is small too, no stock, but available here in Canada (1 week, or next day with a $50 air freight surcharge).
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Thanks you very much
Now I need to find someone with WK1945 in stock. It appears the WK1945 is also ACDelco 18H153
Ok, I was at the Subaru dealer this AM, #725191120, and #25191GA550, are good numbers, described as rear caliper kits, no size specs.@ Raybestos, I got into a paper parts catalogue, probably way out of date, because my part guys do not "do" Raybestos.
WK1945 is listed as a rear 1 3/8 caliper kit for Subaru
WK1954 is listed as front/rear 2 1/8 caliper kit for Subaru
WK2019 is listed as rear 1 3/16 caliper kit for Subaru
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That would be great if you can. I converted the rough measurment of the seal from around 34 mm ID of the seal.
Update
The WK1954 is waaaaaaaaayyyy to big. I discovered I already ordered it for the front calipers and it was on my workbench. The seals measure around 58 mm or 2 5/16 inch ID.
It's after 5PM here now, if you like I can sniff around here tomorrow, at least getting the difference between the 725191120 and 25191GA550.BUT: you will not get sizes in inches, these cars are metric.
The WK1954 is the same seal as used in the front caliper of EA82 cars, the WK2019 is the "oddball" only used in some XTs (the clip in the WK1954 is for the parking brake lever boot).
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Yes, I am finding out there are very few "old parts guys" out there but I have had internet parts guys pull a part and measure something before.
It is kinda hard to show up with goodies when internet shopping but I definately buy when they go to all the trouble of verifying a part.
I've also been trying for 2 days to get an answer from Raybestos Brake on line. http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/raybestos aka Affinia group. One of the FHI numbers posted earlier did cross to the WK1945 but I have not been able to find anyone with them. I had an order in at RockAuto but they canceled it because the kits were backordered.
I'd love to have someone local I could bug but the Subaru dealer here is pretty small and changes personnel often as well.
I looked at the WK1954 kit and wondered if that had the 1 3/8 seal in it. I also looked at WK1945, WK1212, D351212, D351945.
The WK2019 has 1 3/16 dia seals
PartsAmerica had the WK1954 so I ordered them. We'll see when they arrive.
If you don't have a VIN, don't bother with them.The Subaru parts system is set up to require a VIN number, you enter the VIN in the computer, and away you go.
It seems to me:
1) they have pretty well all ditched the paper books in favor of a computer.
2) they do not seem to be able to keep experienced parts people that are familiar with, well, parts.
My local Subaru parts guy does put up with a lot of crap from me, but when I require him to go "exploring" through his computer, I have the courtesy to show up bringing coffee and/or gifts. He also knows that 9 times out of 10 I will be ordering something and with this relationship I get better than "trade" price. You only get out of a situation what you are willing to put in.
When you originally started this thread I pulled out and checked my Beck Arnley book, who strangely does not offer caliper kits for the rear of EA82 Subaru cars.
Raybestos offers 2 kits:
WK1954
WK2019
You say the WK2019 is too small, the WK1954 is "the bigger one" (the spring clip is offered with the WK1954 because the kit covers a wide range of stuff, so you may, or may not, have to use it).
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Wow!
Don't ask SubaruGenuineParts.com aka Chaplins VW Subaru in Bellevue, WA for help.
Chaplin's Bellevue Subaru
15000 SE Eastgate Way
Bellevue, WA 98007
I have a whole long email thread that ended by being told I was rude and they "would not help me in any way, shape or form."
If you don't have a VIN, don't bother with them.
Mark
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There are two FHI part numbers for our rear caliper seal kits:
725191120 and 25191GA550
725191120 was the original caliper kit for SRX and all gen2 rear disc equiped cars it is the smaller piston setup and was carried over to gen3 cars (ea82)
25191ga550 is gen3 only and is for the bigger piston setup.
Unfortunately you could have either setup in most rear disc equiped cars..the only thing that seems certain is that FWD turbo cars got the smaller setup and 3 door RX got the bigger setup, all other turbo vehicles it's up in the air..
Maybe if you cross reference the part numbers you might have better luck finding what you need,
HTH
Kaz
I cross referenced and even contacted GenuineSubaruParts.cpm but no one can help me without a VIN. If I could find someone with either of the kits you mentioned that would measure the seal I could probably get the right one.
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I'm converting to rear disc brakes and looking for the rear brake caliper boot and seal kit number for a caliper that measures 1 3/8 inch diameter. These were supposed to be from an 88 GL-10 sedan but the kit parts are too small in diameter. It is definately not a Raybestos WK2019 kit.
The parts that came out of the caliper are only a boot and seal. There was no spring clip in these calipers. The 1 3/8 inch kits I have found have the spring clip included. It may be that I need to use the spring clip but I wanted to be sure before I order.
Any help is appreciated.
Mark
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Sorry
If it's so bad, maybe it's time to consider a career change. I've had to do that.
Just a thought but you might want to look at EEOC.
Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC)
Enforces federal legislation prohibiting discrimination in employment to ensure equality of opportunity.
Good luck
Mark
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I got one Just last week it was an 85 wagon it has not pump or any power stearing lines anywhere on it, and its a GL. Looks Like I got a one of kind,
Lucky me. No power Stearing:rolleyes: That's my luck
Jeff
My carbed d/r 5 speed 85 GL wagon does not have power steering either.
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Friday driving to work everything worked fine. It was like the carburetor elf jumped in and made things work.
Saturday I took it apart anyway and found brass shavings in the jets, a 115 secondary main jet, a 190 secondary air jet and a 90 in the secondary idle. I also found a strip of metal attached inside th hole where the secondary air jet goes which I pulled out. It looked like a casting defect.
I drilled out the 115 secondary main to match the 135 primary main jet and cleaned the whole carb, installed the rest of the kit and put it back on the car. I did check a couple of local shops for jets but nobody carries Weber stuff and the jets for Holly are totally different. I must have misread somewhere that the Holly jets would fit the Weber.
With things the way they are now, the car runs fine and actually accelerates on the secondary circuit.
Thanks to all for the ideas and support.
Mark
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That's great, but almost nothing for snow or traction.
Also try finding *H* rated 185/70/13s. Almost impossible, and expensive. If you have an EA82 Turbo, alot of places will insist on only installing *H* rated, a that was the factory spec tire. Thank to the Firestone/Ford lawsuit.
So if you have a turbo, put it on blocks, and have you're buddy with a pick up drive you down with the wheels and tires to get them mounted. Don't mention *turbo* if they ask about the vehichle they are going onto.
I predict within 3-5 year the selection gets even slimmer to non-existant.
Just tryin' to help out...
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My Midas guy says I can order from http://www.tirerack.com/ ship them directly to them and they would put them on. Maybe someone in your area would do the same or you can have them sent to yourself. There were more but I was limited on what I could include in the post.
Tires for size 185/70-13
Search New Size
Search by VehiclePerformance Category: All
Brands: All
Speed Ratings: All
Run Flat: Included
Sort results by: Sort Order... Brand Price Performance Type Speed Rating UTQG Warranty Rating
Yokohama AVID T4Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews | Test Results | Survey Results
Sidewall Style: Blackwall- Size: 185/70TR13
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Serv. Desc: 85T Load Index 85 = 1135lbs (515kg) per tire
Speed Rating “T” = 118mph (190kph) -
UTQG: Treadwear: 420
Traction: A
Temperature: B420 A B
- Price: $53.00 (each)
- Estimated Availability: In Stock
Optional Road Hazard Program: additional $6.36 per tire
Qty:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews | Test Results | Survey Results
Sidewall Style: Blackwall- Size: 185/70TR13
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Serv. Desc: 85T Load Index 85 = 1135lbs (515kg) per tire
Speed Rating “T” = 118mph (190kph) -
UTQG: Treadwear: 640
Traction: A
Temperature: B640 A B
- Price: $41.00 (each)
- Estimated Availability: In Stock
Qty:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews
Sidewall Style: Blackwall- Size: 185/70TR13
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Serv. Desc: 85T Load Index 85 = 1135lbs (515kg) per tire
Speed Rating “T” = 118mph (190kph) -
UTQG: Treadwear: 560
Traction: A
Temperature: B560 A B
- Price: $45.00 (each)
- Estimated Availability: In Stock
Optional Road Hazard Program: additional $6.00 per tire
Qty:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews | Test Results | Survey Results
Sidewall Style: Blackwall- Size: 185/70SR13
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Serv. Desc: 85S Load Index 85 = 1135lbs (515kg) per tire
Speed Rating “S” = 112mph (180kph) -
UTQG: Treadwear: 620
Traction: A
Temperature: B620 A B
- Price: $50.00 (each)
- Estimated Availability: In Stock
Optional Road Hazard Program: additional $6.00 per tire
Qty:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews
Sidewall Style: Blackwall- Size: 185/70SR13
-
Serv. Desc: 85S Load Index 85 = 1135lbs (515kg) per tire
Speed Rating “S” = 112mph (180kph) -
UTQG: Treadwear: 400
Traction: A
Temperature: B400 A B
- Price: $25.00 (each) Closeout
- Estimated Availability: Fewer than 2
Optional Road Hazard Program: additional $6.00 per tire
- Size: 185/70TR13
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I wish someone had the FSM for an 85 GL Wagon. Anybody?
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Do Nissan 4 bolt rims work?
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You are most welcome, I doctored the pict
to show what GD lists and to get it to fit most
monitors.
Don't for get to check the venturi problem.
That may be an issue with your secondary problem.
Do not need the top off to see it.
I have opened up several of mine.
It's real simple not like taking the top off
a Carter AFB.
I noticed the text was a little neater on the picture.
The venturis seem to be pointed the right direction. I just haven't taken the top off yet because I'm waiting for Big Jim to send me the kit. I'd probably mess up the gasket and have to let the car sit. I went so long with a sick motor that it's really fun to drive now with the fresh one, even with the carb problems.
And it's too cold and rainy to ride the Harley right now.
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MF did you happen to see this picture
in your search?
Yes
Yes
and Yes
Thanks
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Hows your exhaust flow? If its restricted it may not breath right.
No problems with exhaust that I'm aware of. The car will run out nicely until I hit the carbs secondary. With the Weber on the RPMs rise alot quicker than before and I can maintain flat and level highway speed just fine. I will specifically look at the flow this afternoon.
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I had a violent shaking action when my intake manifold gaskets decided to put in for a transfer. You can feel around the base of the manifold to see if it pulls a vacuum.
That part's been cured. Now I'm having trouble with the Weber secondaries. I started a new thread to clairify.
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It sounds like the secondary barrel is open too soon. I am not familiar with Webers, but I have worked on Holley 4 barrels some.
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I hope this helps.
Everyone on this board swears by Weber 32/36 on the EA82. From what I have read it is made to cover engines from 1600 and up.
There is a kit on the way so I will get in to the guts when that arrives.
It is a mechanical secondary and is set to open after the primary is fully open. The accelerator pump appears to squirt a good stream but that doesn't have anything to do with the secondary because it's action is already out of play just after partial throttle.
There is a power valve in this carb and I will be replacing that as well as checking on which jets are installed.
I do have a d/r 5 speed and even getting the rpm up by downshifting doesn't help.
Thanks for the suggestions
Mark
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Here's a start for you to read through. My first guess would be to large a jet in the secondary. Tim
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29778&highlight=official
Thanks for the link but I have already been there and read all of them. None of the posts say much about the secondary circuit. In fact, there is not much at all on the internet about the subject that I have found yet. This weekend I'm taking the carb apart to see just what is in it for jets.
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I brought this info over from a previous thread I posted because there is another problem I need help with.
All the emissions stuff but the PCV is gone.
The wagon passed emissions today. It failed miserably the first time so I waited to put the Weber on before trying again.Now I just gotta figure out why it bogs when the secondary opens. It starts and idles fine. There is no shaking like I experienced before. All the extra vacuum stuff is removed and capped.
Here is what I have, 85 GL Wagon, EA82, Weber.
I have spent 2 cans of brake cleaner finding the vacuum leaks and believe I have them all resolved.
It accelerates smoothly and gains RPM right up to the point the secondary opens. At WOT it gets loud and either slows or just barely maintains speed.
I have moved the timing from 8 deg to 12 deg and back.
I have moved the vacuum advance tube from the manifold to the port on the carb and will probably move it back.
There is a kit on the way and I will open the carb up and see which jets are actually in there.
I have spent hours looking at threads about the Weber and don't see anything about what I am experiencing. I am open to ideas if anyone would like to throw them at me.
Thanks
Mark
1985 GL Wagon Cooling Fan not working causing it to run hot.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
My 85 GL Wagon had a mechanical clutch fan on the driver side and an electric fan on the passenger side. I removed the mechanical fan and installed an aftermarket 12" electric on the drivers side. It seems to work just fine.