dburdick

I'm definitely not a pro like Ferret, or nipper, but have you tried unplugging the front o2 sensor like Ferret suggested? Also, what code was popped when the check engine light came on?

So...I have bad luck. The short story...My issues were caused by a very clogged PCV and the front o2 sensor. Long story... I believe the clogged PCV pushed oil into the spark plug tubes due to being so clogged. What bad luck...like I said before I was on my to the parts store for the PCV when the oil issue happened which is what made the 2 & 4 cylinder show a misfire. I replaced the PCV and replaced spark plug 2 & 4 due to the oil. I put the car back together and took it for a test drive. The car was still having issues, so I thought I would take a shot at disconnecting the o2 sensor as ferret suggested. Disconnecting it did not make the car run better, so I thought that was not it. On to today's festivities. I replaced the coil due to not getting primary resistance. I tested the replacement coil and the same issue...no primary resistance. I replaced it anyway, just in case. Not the issue. No difference. I believe the Haynes manual is incorrect with being able to measure primary resistance on the 2000 Outback coil. The parts place seconded not being able to test the primary resistance on this particular coil. Maybe we are wrong. On to the injectors. I replaced the 2 & 4 fuel injectors knowing if this was the issue that it probably only needed one. This also did not fix the issue...I figured as much. I was at a loss...I then decided to check the 1 & 3 spark plugs even though I did not have any misfire codes anymore. What do you know...1 & 3 spark plugs also had a teeny bit of oil on them. I replaced those spark plugs. Now the car was really starting to run better. It still felt choked a little on acceleration and it would still randomly have great acceleration, then go back to choked acceleration. It was at least drivable at this point (no severe bucking like the last couple days). I thought I would try unplugging the o2 sensor again....bingo...the car ran better than it has in long time. Good even speed and more power than ever. Sorry for the book.

I bought a Multimeter today because I did not want to put in the expensive injectors that I purchased (I can take them back if I don't use them). I started off testing the throttle position sensor because I started to convince myself that it was the problem. It tested in spec, so it's not the issue. Now on to the coil. The primary resistance is not showing any resistance. My meter is definitely working and I tried several times to get a reading. I tested the secondary resistance and that tested in spec. I am really confused why my check engine light would not stay on if this is the issue, but oh well. I am going to grab a coil tomorrow morning and I will post back if I've resolved my issue.

Replaced the PCV and cleaned the IAC. It was time for both to be done based on the grime. Car seems to idle better, but I still have the inconsistent bucking. On my way to the parts shop to get the PCV the check engine light came on. Codes P0302 and P0304 came on. Misfire in cylinders 2 and 4. Plugs and wires are new, so it's not that. The print out at the parts place says it could be a leaking, or blocked injector??? Does that sound right? I should replace #2 and #4 injectors?

Terminals look fine. I am going to clean the IAC tonight and replace the PCV. I will post back if anything works.

Same issue as jemcdon. I don't have strange gas smell either and my issue is at idle & especially when I am speeding up (its rough and bucking). I started thinking it was the new knock sensor I put in, so I put the old one in (since the old one did not have this issue). The issue still occurs, so it's not that...it just so happens that my issue started 1 day after the knock sensor replacement and it's not associated. I also unplugged the o2 sensor as someone suggested, but the issue still occurs. I also tried to loosen the gas cap and run it, but that did not help. Only difference from jemcdon so far is that I have not gotten the check engine light to come on at all (until putting bad knock sensor back in and unplugging the o2 sensor). I will check my terminals tonight as Caboobaroo suggested.

I am following this thread because it sounds similar to what I am dealing with. I have a 2000 Outback and 4 days ago it started cutting out (feels like bucking) mainly when I try and speed up. It helps to floor the car, but that is the only thing that makes it better. At the next light it will do the same issue unless I floor it. It seems okay at highway speeds. I think it may still do it slightly even at highway speeds only when I lightly step on the gas, but if it does it's so slight that I can hardly tell there is an issue. This is an intermittent issue, so it does not do it all the time. My check engine light is not on. I did just replace a knock sensor due to a check engine light, but the light has not come back on. I also thought it might be a gas cap issue, so I opened the gas tank up and it still did the issue right away. I may still replace the gas cap just in case. I will also unhook the o2 sensor as someone else suggested just to rule that out. I also put a gas cleaner in a couple days ago, but that did nothing. Maybe a fuel filter? I will post if I figure it out.

Okay. Thanks. I am new to Subaru, so I appreciate the response.

I have a 99 Outback Sport exhaust system that my brother is willing to give me for my 91 Legacy L. The Outback and Legacy both have a 2.2L engine. Will the exhaust bolt right up, or will this not work?