dssenne
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Posts posted by dssenne
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Thanks for the info! And I'll check out the classified forum next time. Considering how much they probably cost new, I felt pretty good getting one for $80, but less is always good.
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Bought an ECU from AA Autoparts in Little Rock for $80 including shipping.
Put it in tonight and now my fan works!
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why do you need an ECU?
they do not fail often.
did you look at http://www.car-part.com ?
it should be listed under computer, i think.
After posting here and talking to my local mechanic, it seemed like the ECU was the only reason left why my main cooling fan didn't work.
Bought one and put it in today, and it solved my problem. Paid $80 including shipping, so I'm happy.
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They told me that it would work for me, so I went a head and ordered it. We'll see. At least it was only around $80 including shipping.
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I'm looking to replace the ECU on my '92 Legacy. It's a FWD wagon.
The sticker on the ECU is below:
I found one online that has the same number, except that there's an F at the end (22611 AA930).
They told me that it came out of a '92 Legacy, but if I get it and it turns out to not be the right one, I'm just out of luck.
I've also seen ones that end in AA931.
Mine also has the number A18-000RF6, but the ones online generally only list the 10 digit # above.
Do you think that the one I found that ends in AA930F will work for me?
Thanks!
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Thanks to all who responded!
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I tried the green connectors, but no response from the fan. Guess I'll see how much a used ECU is.
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Did you put the ECU in test mode? Need to do this to see if the ECU is circuit is working properly. ECU grounds the relay to engage the fan. If it works in test mode the problem is sensor related. If it doesn't work the ECU needs to be replaced.
Do you mean connecting the two black connectors, below and to the left of the steering column? I did, and I got several codes, though none of them seem related to my problem of the fan not working. The codes I got were:
11 - crank sensor
22 - knock sensor
24 - air control valve
33 - speed sensor
35 - canister purge solenoid valve
42 - idle switch
When I put the ECU in test mode, the fan didn't turn on. Though when I followed Cougars instructions for grounding the connector for the fan at the ECU, it did turn on.
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Sure, I'll explain it and it is very simple to do once you know which wire ties to the relay coil. Hopefully you have a wiring diagram to refer to that will show you which pin on the ECU the wire ties to. Once you have it you just take a jumper wire that is connected to a good ground point and connect the other end of the jumper to the pin going to the relay coil. You can leave the connector to ECU in place while you do that. It may help to use something like a pin to stick into the backside of the connector to make contact to the jumper wire and the connector pin. You could also stick the pin through the wire insulation and make connection to the wire that way but that leaves a hole in the insulation. Dabbing some silicon glue over the hole would seal it up.
If everything with the Main Fan circuit is okay, and you seem to have proved that already, the fan should turn on when you ground the pin. Other things you have done seem to indicate there is something going on within the ECU or the power to it.
Well I finally found the ECU. Not easy to get to the right pin (d17). Anyway, when I grounded the pin for the main fan, sure enough the fan turns on.
So, what direction does this point me in? Since I made the fan turn on by grounding pin d17, does this mean that the ECU controls the fan by grounding or "un-grounding" it? If that's true, is there some sensor(s) that tells the ECU when to do this? I replaced the water temp sensor, thinking that was it, but that didn't fix it. I replaced the thermostat, in case it was the problem, but no luck with that either.
Is there something else in the circuit that tells the ECU to turn the fan on?
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The blower fan inside works fine, I meant the AC fan under the hood on the passenger side.
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Well, I feel like an idiot! From doing some more google searching, it looks like the last image I posted is the transmission control unit, not the ECU.
A post I read said that the ECU is located under the carpet on the passenger side. I'm going to check that out tonight.
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Ok, now I'm really confused... The fsm shows the ECU as having four plugs with 22, 12, 16 and 26 pins. It looks like the pin for the m
But my ECU only has three plugs with 16, 12 and 20 pins!
Since the pins aren't labeled and my ECU doesn't match the schematic, I don't have a clue which pin to check!
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Yes, it was the one with two wires. Not the one for the temp. gauge.
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Cougar, thanks a lot for taking the time to respond to my posts. I really appreciate it.
I do have a fsm so hopefully I'll be able to find the right pins in that. The section on the Radiator Fan shows a connection from the ECU at pin "d17" to FB-14 which says "To Power Supply Routing". When you say "relay coil" are you referring to the relays that I showed in the pictures above?
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Yes, I did check the fuses and all are ok.
I went back and checked the voltage on the relays (arrows pointing to the terminals)
On the first three relays I got 12V but on the 4th (A/C relay?), I go nothing.
Don't know if this means anything or not.
When you suggest grounding the wire going to the ECU that controls the Main Fan, could you explain how I'd do that? I see the ECU under the dash (gold box),
but I'm not sure what I should do.
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Sorry, I was quoting Imdew's post #3. He said " If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on."
Without jumping either the pressure switch or relay #2, the main fan won't turn on. But either way, the sub fan never comes on.
If the AC system was not working because of incorrect pressure, could this cause the main fan to not work?
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I suggest you see if the fans will turn on by using the TEST connectors, which are under the dash I believe. By plugging them together it will start the TEST mode. If the fan doesn't turn on that way then I suspect the trouble is with the ECU control for the fan. The ECU makes a ground connection to activate the fan relay coil which ties power to the fan motor. Another way to prove it is to manually ground the relay coil lead going to the ECU. Some folks have had this same issue. The lead ties to a driver IC inside the ECU which can be replaced if you are into that kind of repair.
I just went out and tried connecting both the green and black connectors, but nothing changed. Replacing IC's sounds a bit beyond me.
I know this would be lame, but since this is an old car with lots of miles and a few other problems (we really only use it around town and as a backup), would it hurt anything if I just jumped the pressure switch so that the fan was on whenever it was running and just lived without AC?
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Is the temp gauge getting above the 1/2 way mark?
The fans are independent and 2 speed on one or both. If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on.
Is your AC Charge low?
Yes, the gauge does go above 1/2 way.
If I switch on the AC, the compressor doesn't kick in and the AC fan doesn't come on. Just using a cheap-o gauge that comes with a can of R134, the pressure was high on the Low port.
Shouldn't the main cooling fan work even if the AC doesn't?
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Any help would be greatly appreciated!
The main cooling fan has stopped working on my '92 legacy. If I jump the Pressure Switch (Trinary) as shown below, the fan WILL come on.
If I jump the Main fan relay under the hood (below), the fan will also work.
But without jumping either one of these, nothing.
I replaced the thermostat and the coolant temperature sensor with no results. The fuses for the fan are not blown.
I've swapped out the other three A/C relays into the #2 spot just as a test, but that made no difference
The A/C compressor and fan are also not working, but my concern right now is just getting the car to be drivable. It seems like the main fan should be able to work regardless whether the A/C is working or not.
Does anyone have any ideas where I should look next? I'm at a loss!
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Epoxy it.
Spend the money on beer.
I might try that, but it's actually a semi-circle piece at the end of the inlet missing. While the hose covers it as is now, and it's not leaking, I'm concerned about it deteriorating more. Peace of mind and all.
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if time is an issue, order it on line from advance auto and pick it up in the store the same day.
they always have discount working for on line orders.
but if you google, advance auto discount coupons, you may find a 33% of coupon.
i have done ths lots of times and i have even use some coupons twice.
ignore the dates. some of the older ones still work.
juust plug in the code and if the price changes you are good to go.
it may not be the cheapest, but it may be the soonest.
i got something from rockauto this spring and shipping was faster than what was quoted.
good luck.
Time's not so much of an issue. With a coupon it would still be about the same as Radiator Barn.
From the description, the "Ready-Rad" @ Advance looks to be basically the same (plastic, 1-row).
If this type of radiator is ok, I'll probably go by price, which looks to be Radiator Barn.
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If you want the BEST price (you can use auto on manual cars, you just won't hook-up the trans cooler) Rockauto.com 71.99, ~8 shipping. 90 day warr.
Now, if you want some security in a warranty/known mfg, Vista-pro and Spectra do a nice job, ~84 with a 2 year warr on the spectra.
Or if you want lifetime warr, AdvanceAutoParts.com has 15% off, free shipping @ 140 (without the 15%).
I use rockauto.com for ALL my stuff (besides cheap maint items I get from OEM suppliers/online dealers). THEY have the best prices (95% of the time)
Actually Rockauto is a little bit more than Radiator Barn.
The cheapest one at Rock Auto is 91.98 including shipping
Radiator Barn is 88.34 including shipping.
Looks like 2 yr. warranty from Rock Auto vs lifetime from Radiator Barn.
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The plasic upper hose throat on my 1999 OBW (Auto.) radiator is cracked, so I'm going to put a new one in.
I've checked most of the standard sources and it seems like my choices are pretty much:
Aftermarket, plastic & aluminum, one row (from various online suppliers/local parts stores)
or
OEM (from dealer/online supplier)
The best price I've found so far is Radiatorbarn
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator
Their price is WAY cheaper than the OEM option.
I put one of these in a '92 Legacy a few years ago with no issues so far.
I see here where people are getting 2- row, all metal radiators, but whenever I search on the supplier sites, the only option that shows up for my OBW with the auto. is like the one above from Radiatorbarn.
Does this (Radiatorbarn link above) seem like an ok way to go?
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Well I found the solution to this:
I was pressing the small "lock/unlock" toggle switch at the front of the controls.
If I lock the door using the lock button that's by the opener on the door - no honking.
While I still want to get a couple keyless remotes, this is good till then.
Main fan not working
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thanks for your help Cougar (and everyone else!). I've replaced a few things before like starter, alt., axles, etc. but never got into anything electrical.
I was always pretty intimidated by that. But when you look at the schematics and wiring diagrams, it's starting to seam a little less confusing.
It's so great that folks on this forum are willing to take the time to help. I always feel great when I fix something my self and think about the money I saved!