lorysloyale

Well, its kinda fixed. I need to trace the wire and find where it goes to really fix it. Right now its still using the bare melted wire, but I can let the car sit till I fix it. I did the swap because the headlights and interior lights were not very bright, and now they seem brighter. I have to say I'm sorry I didn't read your guide close enough. I made an assumption about the diagram, thinking it was the plug on the wire side. So there is nothing wrong with the guide.

FIXED? I wired it up correctly and now it works, but I'm definitely stringing a new wire to ground. Just goes to show if it can be messed up, I will always find a way. At least now I can wire up the rest and be done with it. Looks like the permanent ground is 14 gauge.

ok, I know that sofar I'm talking to myself, but I was wondering if that wire could be bypassed to a chassis ground? It appears to be just regular old ground.

I figured out the problem. I'm so stupid. It was the relay's base view, not the plug's view. So... I fried the permanent ground line by wiring it up incorrectly. Great. I managed to swap pin 3-1, 4-2, 1-3, 2-4. So I guess I sent 12 volts straight to ground, and that wire melted first because it was a smaller guage for some reason. Does that make sense?

Ok, it looks like the wiring goes into the driver's side fender area. Can I just string a new wire once I find out where it goes or will I need to follow all the wires near it to see if it melted the insulation on those as well? According to the diagram on the swap, the wire that burned was pin 4 on the round relay plug. I wired this to pin 87 on the bosch relay.

Well I hooked up the bosch relay where the round relay went for the left headlight. I used spade connectors for a temp setup. Well I turned on the headlights to check it, and one of the wires burned up! I know I should have tested the wires before I hooked them up but the diagram looked like it was correct. What do I do now?

Found out the bolt is an M14x2 with a 10.9 rating on it. The guy at NAPA said that should be good for 150-200 something ft-lbs, in case anyone wants to know. I guess my options are tap it out to a bigger size bolt or put a heli-coil in. I don't think I can fit a drill in there, but maybe they make one that fits into tight spaces?

Alrighty! I got the seals off finally, my way, with lots of prying them out using vice grips. I actually have it almost back together now, but when I went to torque the crank bolt down, it stripped out. I must have had it cross-threaded. Anybody know what the stock bolt size and thread pitch are? I need to re-tap it and get the next size up, if possible.

Another thing, the seals on my engine are aftermarket, and on the inside you can see a metal surface, which I don't see on the new ones which are subaru oem ones. Would an aftermarket seal be harder to remove? I also managed to break a hook from a pick and hook set.

Ok, a 6 point socket worked and I got all the bolts off. I also got the cam seal retainers off, but the seals are super stuck in there. I have tried a seal puller which only dented the front of the seal. I tried hammering them out with a screwdriver, again only dented the front of the seal, and didn't move it at all. I tried installing the retainers again to see if I could get more leverage, but I can't even get the seal puller into the space between the cam and the seal. I heard about those lisle shaft type seal pullers, but I can't seem to find any in my area. I'm in bothell, WA. Now of course I HAVE to remove the seals, they are pretty much trashed.

I am in the middle of doing a timing belt / oil seal replacement and I have most of the parts removed to get to the cam seals. I started loosening the cam sprocket bolts and one bolt on each has a stripped head. I can get the bolt remover set to get the bolts off, but where should I get replacement bolts? I have got to learn to not start projects with limited time.

Ok, after having everything apart, I have one thing fixed. There were three brown connectors next to the ecu (I believe these are diagnostic connectors) and the wires on the ones that were connected together didn't match. I switched them and the seatbelt immediately moved. I'm not sure why that would work like that, especially when the passenger belt always works. I'm still stumped about the check engine light. The service manual is for an 89 and I am not sure if its the same as my 92. Pin 2 on the middle connector is supposed to be the CEL. I checked the voltage between the positive lead on the light's connector and pin 2 and it was 12 volts (key in the on position). I then checked for continuity between that pin and the negative lead of the light, and there is continuity. However if I check the resitance its around 500k ohms. Something is not right here, either I don't have the right pin, or there is a short in the wire somewhere.

*EDIT* I put this in the wrong forum, could someone please move it to the older generation forum? I have a 92 loyale sedan with a faulty check engine light. I took apart the dash to get to it and found the bulb was bad, but I tried a known working bulb in the spot and it doesn't light either. So I checked with a volt meter, no power. Any ideas what to look at next? I think I have found which pin on the ecu provides the ground, and I'll check that next. The second problem is the automatic seatbelt on the driver side does not move. I checked the connector on the motor and its connected. The lamp on the dash is blinking. I did a search here and found the manual scans to do a diagnostic, but I can't find the connector. What color is it, and where is it exactly?

Thanks for all the help everyone, the axle is in! Turns out I just needed more room to swing the sledge. I did manage to get it almost all the way in from below the car, but finished the job from above with a few extensions and a tiny socket, which gave its life for the cause. I just wish there wasn't an exhaust pipe going right below the pin or I would have used a jack with some metal thing to push it in. That and the starter right above. I'm driving her around today and she's starting to click a tiny bit on the other side, but I know I have more time there. This seems to have solved the shuddering problem on acceleration. Now its time to chase down the various oil leaks. I'm going to start with the areas I can see, like the valve cover on the drivers side and possibly the oil filter? I also have an oil pan gasket ready to go.

I know its on the right direction, I looked at how the splines lined up with both the holes on the stub axle and the DOJ. Before I put the pin in I could see right through the hole to the other side, and there was nothing in the way. What I mean to ask is if there is another way it could be out of alignment, like maybe can it tip or something? I might just be having trouble getting momentum to my swings. Remember, the pin is almost all the way in, it just has a little left to go. I think that if I had the wrong direction to begin with, I couldn't even get the pin in beyond the DOJ. Also, I made sure to put the pin in through the beveled side.