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OhChit

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Posts posted by OhChit

  1. Has anyone on this Board ever built a Subaru Stroker Engine? I’m considering building a 2.5 SOHC Stroker Engine but not sure what is sold to do so, or if parts are available etc? Also not sure my efforts will be worth the price? The engine will be going into a semi race car after market ECU etc and at this time I’m just kicking the idea around and would need to know what gains one could expect from such efforts?

     

    Thanks Jon

  2. Blitz...

     

    Thanks alot. You da-man.

     

    I'll dig through those links that you posted, and between what I have been told, and can dig up in those threads I'm sure I'll come up with a happy solution.

     

    By the way, I've decided to go with the 2.5 STI block and a set of 2.5 SOHC Heads and valves. A T3-4 turbo, ported heads, after market ECU and AIM dash cluster. I've been told that the stock 2.5 cams will perform very well with this combo. I'm also going to need some Hi RPM's maybe red line of 6500. It's mostly the zero to top end that I need, as this car's going to see much of it's life on the 1\4 mile strip and some short rally tracks.

     

    Jon

  3. Blitz.

    Thanks for the info and valve research opening and closing. I had already contacted Cobb Tuning and they mentioned that they do have a cam for the 2.5 but the person that I spoke to didn't know much about it, nor did they say that it will work with a Turbo. I'm waiting to speak with one of their tech guys.

     

    Actually the 2.2T heads will be the best fit due to their smaller size, after looking at them I think that I can port the combustion camber a little larger. Do you happen to have any comparison on the 2.2T valve opening and closing as compaired to the 2.0 T ...

     

    I'm also wondering if the 2.2 heads will hold up on the 2.5 STI block and will be able to handle higher boost of maybe 15-20 lbs. Do you know who sells stronger valve springs?

     

    Thanks Jon

     

     

    I think that if you bolt on the 2.2 heads, the compression is gonna jump a bit (smaller chamber). Not sure by how much.

     

    The 2.5 SOHC heads will work, but at the very least, re-working the exhaust ports would be a good thing.

     

    Not sure about the cam profile. Cobb claims that their "Street Performer" is a good match for a bolt-on turbo kit. I think they'll work you up a custom grind based on a specific need.

     

    Turbo 2.0: 240*/240* - 109.5 LDA

    N/A 2.5 232*/236* - 113.5 LDA

     

    When I compare the WRX 2.0 against the N/A 2.5 SOHC, the biggest significant difference I can see is opening the intake 9 degree sooner and closing 1 degree sooner for the turbo cam. The exhaust valve is started 3 degrees earlier and held open 1 degree later.

  4. Where does it say that I intend on running a standard Head? I'm trying to suplement the Turbo block with a converted 2.5 SOHC head and Turbo cams. If need be I'll have the 2.5 SOHC heads ported for better air flow. or I'll use a pair of 2.2 Turbo heads. Not even close to a standard head.

     

     

     

    I could add ....why a turbo when you plan to use regular heads? your set up gonna be restrictive and combustion chamber size may rise your compression beyond the limits of a turbo setup
  5. Mate thanks for your help, but I just can't beleive that this hasn't been done before successfully. And even more so that someone on here dosn't know if it can be done?

     

    As I mentioned, I'm limited to space issues and simply trying to utlize a 2.5 STI low compression block and a SOHC set of heads. Now it's just a choice weather to use the 2.2 Turbo heads and cams, or try to use the SOHC 2.5 heads and come up with some sort of cam?

     

     

     

    but I think nobody is answering this because the general opinion of the board is that if you want a turbo engine you should buy one. The expense of conversion to get a reliable engine is pretty high. An entire JDM turbo engine is fairly reasonable compared to the cost of converting an engine.

    You might try Nasioc as I seem to recall a forced induction forum.

  6. I have a Project that I'm working on. It's a non street car and due to engine bay clearence issues I am limited to engine width of no more then 29" wide. The Subaru 2.5 SOHC engine will just about clear but is a thight fit, my problem is that I plan on running a Turbo I have a STI 2.5 Block, the problem area is the Heads and Cams?

     

    Does anyone know who makes a Turbo cam for the 2.5 SOHC heads?

     

    or

     

    I can run the 2.2 Turbo heads and in doing so I can keep the total width of the engine around 27" wide. Does anyone have any experience with running the earlier 2.2 Turbo heads on a 2.5 Block? I know the heads will fit, my concerens are will I lose much power due to the older generation heads? Or will the heads be able to handle the increased power delivered by the 2.5 STI block? This engine will be running an after-market ECU so the computer and wiring harness shouldn't be an issue.

     

    Also who sells beefer valve springs etc for these applications?

    Sorry for all the questions, but you guys are the Subie-experts

    Jon

  7. Hey Guys check out my BugaRu.. What do you think? It will be undergoing another engine transplant soon with a 325+ HP Outback engine. Pic attached hopefully you can see the small pic. By the way why are picture sizes limited to such a small size?

     

    http://bugaru.com

    post-2688-136027602988_thumb.jpg

  8. The factory thermo is labeled: 78*C, which is 172*F. Most folks that run a performance setup use the Zerosports 71*C / 160*F aftermarket unit. The Zerosports is a real Fuji (FHI) part which is an important distinction. DON'T use anything except a Fuji part.

     

    Subaru cooling systems place the thermo at the water inlet as opposed to the outlet like most other arrangements. I'm not sure why, so I'll just assume it's a better way to do it.

     

    Maybe someone else can chime in as to why ...I'm curious.

     

    But what is the normal engine operating temp for a 2.2 or 2.5. Is 190-200 normal for hot weather driving?

  9. I can’t switch the engine. It’s a off road project car, and I’ll be running an aftermarket ECU, so no issues with vacuum hoses or pollution concerns.

     

    The engine needs to be a Subaru 2.5 SOHC engine. And since I can’t locate a Turbo version of the 2.5 SOHC at a reasonable price. I’m forced to convert a non-Turbo engine to a Turbo. Oh-ooo by the way I also need to covert a DOHC engine to SOHC heads.. So it looks like I need to replace the pistons with low compression pistons, and the heads with SOHC heads. Any thoughts?

  10. I have a EJ25 non-Turbo engine that I would like to convert to a Turbo.. This engine is going into a off road project car, so I will be eliminating most of the hoses and pollution stuff.

     

    I believe that I will need to swap out the higher compression pistons for lower compression pistons. Will I need to do anything to the heads? Also,

     

    Who sells a decent low compression pistons?

  11. OK found the power problem, it ended up being a bad inline fuse from my main power feed. It was one of those stab type fuses, and beleive it or not one of the spades was making intermiting contact. It actually caused the fuse holder to meltdown from the lose connection. I'm not sure that this is what was causing my 5500RPM breakup, but I do beleive that it is related to the same problem. "Time and a few more Track passes will tell". Even though I have all circuits on their own breakers, apperently the engine ECU, relays etc don't like to share power sources or have little power blips from things like brake lights, fuel pump etc coming on and off. I have one main power source feeding my computer, and also accessories, etc. Gone to have to break it into two circuits right from the battery. Engine/ECU power, and another power feed for such things like lights, engine cooling fan, etc, etc....

    Thanks for eveyone's help. I'll be right back if I still have that high RPM mis after I correct this problem.

    Jon

  12. OhChit, new problem..

     

    For all of you Subaru experts can any of you help to crack this problem.. I was having a high RPM miss, and engine break-ups.. Now the problem seems to have expanded further. I was driving the car, and it began to get towards dusk, I reached over and turned my headlights on, and the car sputter and coughed, as it did so I began step on the break to enable me to pull to the shoulder to restart the car. The cars dead. Normally the fuel relay chatters away as you engage power to the key, but it just about lets out a faint click. Seems like the batter was quickly drained, or a dead battery. But the battery is new, and the charging system working fine. I have had a simular problem everyonce in awhile, now that I think of it, it seems to happen when there is a power draw, and the computer re-adjusts for such.. I can not dump my engine codes, wish I could so plase don't sugest that..

     

     

    Any idea’s or places to begin looking. Not enough juice to power anything, no lights, no starter, notta-aaaa?

  13. Hi,

     

    Sounds like an ignition problem, unless you've also modified the fuel delivery system and intake manifold a lot. You may need more dwell than the ECU is programmed for. Also, try a different heat range on the spark plugs, or perhaps a higher voltage coil.

     

    Do you know how the ECU has been remapped? That is, are others using it and not having the same problems you are? The map may simply be wrong.

     

    Regards,

    Adnan

    It almost appears that I'm hitting a rev limiter and the engine just kind of sputters, and futters at the 5500rpms. Does anyone know where the factory default limit is set at. My tac say's I'm turning around 5500+ but not sure that the ECU is sending the correct readings to my aftermarket VDO tac?

  14. On my system, it is setup and uses a radiator reserve water tank, and a overflow located at a higher point then the radiator to allow for filling, and adequate expansion and re-supply of water to the Radiator. But my radiator is mounted in the upright position and located in the spare tire wheel-well just behind the front of the hood as would be found on most cars. Keeps things pretty C@@L..

  15. Radiator mounts upright in the front where the spare tire once was. For ventilation the radiator has an electric fan, cooling is provide via air vents cut into the front nose of the car. The stock VW Bug trans can handle the engine, but I have chosen to go with a beefed up VW Bug trans. The VW Bug is a popular conversion myself, and SnotRocket chose to use the washerbox Subaru engine, whereas others have used any verity of engines, from Madza’s to V8’s including the WRX engines but most require some modification of the exterior deck lid for clearances. My personal option is I couldn’t have chose a better engine then the Subaru engine conversion, it fits uncluttered into the VW engine compartment like it was made from the factory to do so deck lid even shuts flush and the normal unsuspecting person would never know! Plus it runs cool, it’s sturdy and has plenty of torque plus the engine still has room for performance up grades.

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