rottenhead

http://home.pcisys.net/~bpc/auto_law/tint/ Under Maine, NO tint allowed on the windshield. I have a strip going across the top, so maybe that's why it failed. I wouldn't mind terribly taking that off. But it also says 50% across the board...and I really can't remember what mine is. We'll find out I guess.

Well. I went to the dealer and got a price on a 2003 Baja w/4K miles that would work with my budget, but didn't pull the trigger. I got another estimate on the work for my legacy that's about 1800 instead of 2500. This includes replacing the oil pan, fixing the tranny shudder, 2 CV boots and a front axle, and replacing the steering rack. So, I guess I'll go ahead and have it done. It's hard to justify putting that much $$ into it...but it's also hard to justify having a car payment for the next 5 years and/or buying a used car that I'll have to fix the same things on as I've had to with my current one. That being said...one of the places I brought my current vehicle to have it inspected claimed the window tint was too dark. This same tint passed in Colorado, New York, and at one other place in Maine. It seems stupid to me to have to take the tint off...it isn't even that dark. It would really bother me to fix all the actual mechanical stuff, and then have it fail b/c of window tint.

Understood. But, it's not a Stafford or other federal loan where taxpayers are paying the interest while I'm in school. It's a private loan where I'll be responsible for the interest. I've been driving my '92 for 7 years and I love it to death and could afford to put the 2K into it to fix it I guess. But I just worry that the engine and tranny are set to go at any minute. Anyway, thanks for the reply and hopefully I won't end up a stereotypical personal injury lawyer.

Lemme just run a wild idea by you guys and see what you think. BankOne has these education loans (up to 30K) that can be used for anything you want, as long as you're a full time student and have a co-signer. What would you think of taking out say 20K and getting a BAJA? I won't have to make payments until I can afford to essentially, and the insurance should be lower. The interest rate is a bit higher than a car loan, but still....thoughts?

The estimate to repair my 92 Legacy to pass ME state inspection was 2500+. With 230K on the car, it appears time for a new one, rather than pour more money into the old. My issue is this. I don't want to buy another used car. (Unless it's very low miles.) I'm on a very strict budget because I'm in law school. Essentially, I can afford to absorb the insurance cost increase, and manage to put together about 2500 for a down payment, plus about 300/month for a payment. Anything above and beyond this, I just don't have the money for. SO...what are the hidden costs when buying or leasing a new car? How much can I expect to pay above and beyond the "due at lease signing" figure(therefore adjusting my down payment accordingly)? Also, opinions about whether or not my expectations of being able to buy or lease a new Subie on this budget are based in reality or not...are welcome. Thanks for any and all responses in advance. --rotten--

I'm wary of the diagnosis too. All of the fluids are full and have been for the past 3K. There is definitely oil on the bottom of the pan, but I really don't know where it's coming from. I'm having a second mechanic look at it on Thursday and will go from there probably.

Hey guys- 1992 Legacy SW 230K, AT. Took it to get a Maine inspection yesterday and received a laundry list of bad news after having very few problems this year. 1. Left outer boot torn, probably need new axle 2. Steering rack leaking 3. Oil pan rotted and leaking 4. Left lower ball joint has torn boot In addition, the car shakes when turning at low speeds-one gentleman I spoke to says that this is the result of a problem in the transfer case. A few questions... a)if the steering rack is leaking, why is the power steering fluid reservoir full? b)I replaced the oil pan about 60K ago...could it really be done again?? c) Supposedly this transfer case problem is common...anyone else had it, and/or know the financial damage of having it fixed? I really can't afford to get a new car and I don't see the sense in buying another used one with another set of problems since I only have about 1K to spare. However, my current subie has never had any transmission or major engine work. SO, I'm living on borrowed time no matter what i fix...you see my dilemma. I may be just venting. Thanks for listening. --rotten

It's a '92 legacy wagon, sorry I didn't specify before. When they did the muffler a couple years ago, I made them put on one that was similar to the original; two pipes and all...so hopefully they didn't have to mess with anything. I saw some posts suggesting there were some switches that could be adjusted to try and get the seatbelt going again...but there was nothing definitive really.

Unrelated, I know...but both have gone at the same time. The driver's side seat belt doesn't move anymore, and the warning light blinks anytime the car is on, at a steady rate. I tried to move it back, so I could at least use it, by using the allen wrench system...but to no avail...I can't even turn it back. Anything I can do besides take it to the dealer? Secondly, I am tired of trying to get MIDAS to replace my guaranteed muffler...they won't order it without looking at it, they want me to wait two hours for them to tell me my muffler needs replacing when it has a 4 inch hole in it and another MIDAS has already given me an estimate. SO, I was wondering how difficult it is to slap a muffler on if I just get one myself, and also what pipe is supposed to be replaced whenever you put a new muffler on (something MIDAS told me too). Thanks much guys...

Everything on my '92 Legacy Wagon in the engine is original except for the timing belt (replaced at 188K). The trannny (auto!) is also original, with nothing done to it besides fluid replacement. The car has 218,000 on it. If it makes it back across the country for me (3300 miles), full of my girlfriend's and my stuff, a box and a ski rack on top, and 2 bikes on the back...I'll owe it whatever it wants for as long as I live.

Hey guys- While putting my summer tires back on last night, my reliable jack somehow seized up and now won't budge. I bent the hell out of the handle trying to get it out too, unfortunately...so it looks like I need a new one. I'd like to get an original Subie one since they fit in the compartments so conveniently. I've tried all the online parts stores...anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance...

I really don't have much external leakage to speak of. It loses around a quart every 3-4K...but no spots. Thanks for setting my mind at ease about the source of the problem. It's tough to decide whether to throw any money at it...I could probably afford to do it...I've kept the body flawless as well as the brakes and suspension.... The tranny is solid and the only engine work I've had done is the timing belt so I suspect it certainly has some gasket/seal probs that need to be addressed. I want a BAJA to the point of obsession but am entering law school in the fall...soooo...hopefully she can pull through. Sincere thanks guys....

Any idea what might have led to the o-ring going? The engine was absolutely fine before I changed the oil...is there something I could have done during that process to cause the o-ring to go? I wish i had the luxury of not driving it...but it's my only car and both me and my girlfriend have commutes to work:( I don't have access to a gauge...so I guess I'll have to bring it somewhere to have it checked out...

Maxlife is a thinner oil then I take it? Recommendations on brands for an engine with 215K? thanks much for the quick replies.

The light comes on only at operating temp. As soon as you hit the gas pedal, the light goes out.

I used the Valvoline Maxlife stuff with a tuffguard filter that was picked out using one of those computer guides. I put in the 4.8 quart capacity...and then added about a 1/2 quart more when i saw the light come on the first time. It had been about 4,000 miles since the last change and it has now been about 200 miles since I changed it.

92 Legacy wagon, 215K that I just changed the oil on for the first time on my own. May have put slightly too much in (1/4 quart or so). Anyway, OPI light comes on at IDLE and only at idle. Manual says if there is sufficient oil, which there is, there may be a problem with the lubrication system. Is there a quick fix or did I mess my baby up?