Losiho
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Posts posted by Losiho
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I bet the present oil in there is Castrol SLX 5W-30 "Longlife"
I guarantee you it isn't. SLX was discontinued in Australia years ago.
The oil dealers use is Castrol Magnatec FM 10W-30 (a workshop oil, unavailable in retail outlets).
There's no need to run a xW-40 or xW-50 in a new engine requiring a 5W-30 or 10W-30, especially during the warranty period.
Dingbat, if you want "the best", in a xW-30, I assume you mean synthetic, which means your choice is Mobil 1 10W-30, Motul 8100 EcoEnergy 5W-30, Motul 300V 5W-30, or Redline 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Other non-synthetic choices are Castrol Formula R 5W-30, or Penzoil or Caltex Havoline 10W-30.
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My 99 Outback will change up at the redline (6,200) every time the throttle is floored. If you really get a good kickdown into 2nd, it will even change up at 6,400rpm (fuel cutout is 6,500).
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I just filled my Outback with Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40. So far it has been excellent.
And I wouldn't hesitate to use a dual rated diesel engine oil in a gasoline car.
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Getting back on topic, I actually find the temperature control (climate control system) more annoying than the fan speed button. Sometimes when I turn the round dial clockwise to increase the temp, the temperature will actually go down ! You have to be very slow and deliberate when making adjustments.
Does anyone else's Outback have this issue as well ?
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I would be happy if ALL the local franchised Subaru dealers could do a god job and not return the vehicle dirty and covered on coolant.
OT
Graham - I've heard too many negative things about Subaru's dealerships in Melbourne. Do what I do, and take your car to Makin & Luby. They very professional, knowledgeable, and don't return your car dirty or covered in coolant.
My car is heading down there tomorrow for its 87,500km service
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Mine has a one button fan speed control. I think all models with climate control are the same.
Slightly annoying, but just something you have to get used to.
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Australia - MY99 Outback (same shape), I either use 95 or 98 Octane (RON).
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That is damn impressive. I wonder what his secret is.
Well, he's from Sweden, so like my Outback, his car was probably built in Japan and not the USA ! :-p
(Sorry, only teasing 
)Seriously, just regular careful manintenance and a lack of abuse....I don't think there are any secrets to long vehicle life.
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The problem that I'm having in this thread is the EJ engine designation that I keep hearing. Since I'm a Subie newbie I don't know where to find this number on my car or if it's even written on my car.
I don't know if this applies to US made cars, but the letters EJ25 are stamped on my engine block, easily visible just below the intake manifold.
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Sorry, I have no idea regarding Phase 1 or 2 2.2L variations. My reply was specific to the 2.5L Legacy/Outback engine.
"EJ25" is just a Subaru nameplate and ID code for the 2.5L engine.
I have also heard that the main reason for Phase 1 EJ25 headgasket problems is the fact that it's a bored out 2.2L block.
FWIW the new Outback/Legacy line and the Phase 2 EJ25 were released in late 1998 in world markets.
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The phase 1 is a DOHC engine, the phase 2 is a SOHC. It's hard to describe on a computer without showing you a pic, but probably the easiest way to spot the difference is to look at the black cam/belt covers at the front of the engine (directly in front of the radiator). The DOHC engine will have two "humps" for the camshafts, the SOHC only one.
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Thanks for the link.
Over the time I've owned my Outback (almost 2 years) fuel consumption has ranged from a best of 8.92 L/100km (26.4mpg) on a long highway run, to a worst of 13.76 L/100km (17.1mpg) in city driving. Note, although my Outback is a 1999 model, it's the SOHC 2nd generation Outback model that arrived in Australia in late 1998 (our Legacys / Outbacks are imported from Japan).
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I don't know how to convert to MPG, but my Outback auto gets around 11.5 L/100km in city driving (driven hard).
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RST-555......I love your rego !
Nice ride.....I almost bought a RS Turbo back in 1993, but insurance would have been a killer
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It's got nothing to do with the AWD system or tyre pressures - the clunk happens as soon as you touch the brake pedal. There is no noise at all when shifting from forward to reverse until the brakes are touched.
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Thanks guys.
My service dealer (Subaru) seems to think it's normal, but I might contact them again to make sure.
As I said over at the Nasioc Forum, I want to try Bendix Ultimate pads (I think they're called Axis Metal Masters in the USA ?) with DBA slotted rotors all round - the braking performance should be much better, but this combo definitely isn't dustless.
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Whenever I reverse my Outback, then select a forward gear, my front dics pads make a knocking noise. For instance, I'll select reverse, slowly reverse out of a car parking space, then stop. I then select drive, drive for a short distance, and as soon as I hit the brakes with the car travelling forwards, the pads will knock (a clunking noise from the front end).
I complained to my service department, who said it was "normal" and anti squeal applied to the pads is the only solution, but I have never had a car that's had the same "problem" (if you could call it that - more of an annoyance). The only thing is the effect of the anti squeal they applied to the pads at the last service only helped for about 100km before the knock came back.
Do all Outbacks suffer the same problem ?
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I cared, and it was good info for all to read
Changing all filters and fluids and knowing your car is in tip top condition gives you that warm fuzzy feeling inside !
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Originally posted by Neil
I think the impreza RV over here in Aussi are turbo ,this is the odd looking wagon not many around but ,gee they are fast .
go like 40 basterds !
Impreza RVs are 2 litre N/A and definitely not turbo. You're thinking of the WRX Hatch.
What make & model tires do you have on your suby?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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MY99 (3rd Gen in the USA) OBW. The original Yokohama Geolander G040s, 215/60/16 (which I believe are unavailable in the USA).
I travel to the snow at least once or twice a year, hence the need for a M+S tyre.