garthpro

sounds like new engine time. anyone selling on here?

mike, where are you located exactly?

got it up. Rear drive shaft U-joint. it does have 271K on it! down side is ~$600 (retail) for the entire shaft, which is the only way you can buy it, no replacement for the U, but an easy swap out.

OK, I got a new set of Michelins. Vibration is still there at same speeds, ~30mph and 50-60 mph, whether in gear or coasting. I have an appointment to get it in the rack Saturday morning. I'll post an answer. If / When I find one! positive though is that the Pirellis cost me $30 to run for a year, 37k out of teh 80K rating with a rebate and 251$ credit.

I have not noticed any clunking. the tires ARE wearing EVEN though.?

Thanks yeah, hand made costs more. I avoid hand made as machines really never have "bad days". These tires are Pirelli cinturato. they weren't cheap, but not super premium either. thanks and I will let you all know if a new set, NOT PIRELLI this time, clears it up. I was hoping that a rotation would help me find the problem tire, but I can't pinpoint it. which is odd

cool. thanks. so with that in mind, does it still sound like a bad tire? causing this issue? The guys just came out and said "they all balanced out fine"

right on! yupp, it's been a time since I had the alignment done, like 100k+. but squeeky wheel, no probs = no reason. I run around 35 in the summer, lower in the winter, just in case I hit some slick spots. I am unclear as to why the wobble or vib wouldn't show on the spin balance at Discount Tire. can you tell me how that works?

no pull. I will get some credit on the tires, so not a big deal. Still no reason for the vibration at certain speeds though?! could a bad belt that doesn't show in the spin balance explain. not from what I can figure. anyone?

2000 OBW manual, 270k miles I noticed an odd vibration into a long trip. only at ~55mph. threw it in neutral, still there at same speeds. a few hundred miles later (no choice weekend trip and no where to get them checked), it was spreading through a larger range of speed, 50-65. Got a rotation and balance, they said it was good but tires were wearing way too fast. 35k into an 80k tire and near the Wear Bar Last set of tires was fine and outlasted the 60k rating by 10k. said wear was even, didn't appear mechanical. -Could this be a bad tire? that didn't show in spin balance -if not what is it? could it be? Mind you I am super anal about rotation, balance, and mileage. none of these showed any change.

you win. I just got a sitter and felt like staying up

thanks/. now why are we on here at 11 on friday night? I have no power. wind storm. 2 dayz now. a week this summer

so low cat eff bank one (1) is front or rear? O2 sensor

do you have the website? and is that the problem? p420 again, I am not going to fix it unless it will get me better mileage! but then again, you are the man

front or rear? front was way more I think .

pcv I did with a little carb cleaner. I was talking about the O2 sensor

cheap. where? I paid 120ish on a 20% discount at napa

Over 2000 miles since the rear main and rod access port re-do. We couldn't get an o-ring for the port so we used form-a-gasket around it. No choice other than wait a week on the o-ring. So far so good. BUT, getting that damn pesky P420 (ha) code. Low Catalytic Efficiency Bank 1 Any ideas? I have replaced the front and rear O2 sensors. thanks THe clutch was stellar. I guess the mileage drop was due to extreme cold and snow here. 3-4 mpg. it is back to 26ish.

how would one check that?

After pulling engine and replacing rear main, this time only putting it in to the edge of the bevel, and perma-texing the O-ring on that access port, which looks like it was leaking, I have put about 120 miles on it. so not enough time to really know anything. The Oil separator plate looked intact and the permatex was not compromised. I think it was a combo of the rear main and the access port. any way to tell if the pvc valve is bad?

A couple of notes if any is reading this. It is much easier to pull the engine than the tranny, and work forward. If you can, pull the entire engine out! takes about 1 hour with a hoist and something to lift engine with, we used a forklift. The rear main is picky, NOTE how far in it sits. that little access port on the left as you look into it should have the o-ring behind it replaced as welll. NO one has it in stock, so before you start, order it or be prepared to make one out of permatex or some other sealant. I hope that works! still getting a code 420, catalytic efficiency low, bank #1. ANyone out there have an idea?

there was a LITTLE oil in the bell. It was definitely engine oil. And there was a a fair amount BEHIND the inspection port for the rods. Gotta figure the engine overheat (see my thread on head rebuild) caused the O-ring in there to go bad.

what is the clearance between the flywheel and the engine blok? I have some 2 mm flex scopes. same as the ones they stick up your bumm

EJ 25 Pretty sure it was the access port for the rods. that plate had some oil behind it! The seal on the separator was not compromised. the rear main?? couldn't tell, but for $11, we popped the new one in anyway. No drive time to tell if we got it tho! I am wondering if I can snake a flexible camera (aka colonoscope etc.) thru the clutch inspection port and look? anyone ever done that?

PS. I re-did the oil PAN with permatex already, I couldn't find a leak on that.