timmckee

Has anyone found a cargo box long enough for skis - 185cm that still allows their hatch to open fully? I have a 07 Outback Sport.

Well after driving approx 200km's there's no appreciable difference in the coolant level and there's no more water coming out of the exhaust. I think it was just a winter's worth of condensation built up in the exhaust pipe/muffler. Lot's of worrying for nothing!

Thanks

I think I snuck it in underneath so that the other end of the wrench was pointing down. See there's my bad memory again, it's mounted on two studs with nuts, not bolts into tapped holes.

... might have been a 16mm bolt. My memory is pretty bad. All I remember for sure is they were two different sizes. have fun!

Replacement isn't that tough of a job. There are two flange bolts, one of which is a bit tough to get to. I seem to recall they were different sizes. I think 14mm and 17mm. I had to pull pretty hard on the 17mm bolt with a long box wrench, so 3/8" drive might be a tough go. Besides the two flange bolts you need to disconnect the ground and power cable. It helps to pull out any misc. vac. hoses to make some room. I didn't rebuild mine, just threw in a spare I picked up cheap from the wreckers, so I can't comment on that end of the job. Best bet is just google "starter rebuilds".

It's a 1995 Legacy with an EJ22 engine. The circuit is powered through the main relay and a 30A fuse in the main fuse box. I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me so I can't remeber what other sensors/instruments are also on that circuit. I was having a previous problems with the car which I traced to a loose ground wire on the intake manifold. I'm also loosing coolant. Is it possible there's a crack in the valve body and coolant is getting into the intake manifold?

Could it just be a dirty/sticking valve?

At first I thought it was the alternator so I disconnected that connector. I could still hear the buzzing of the solenoid.

After the car has been shut off, the IAC Solenoid still has power to it - full battery voltage. Is this normal? Is the main relay f'd? I didn't see how many amps it was pulling.

Okay, so per Murphy's rule, the first thing I should have checked but didn't was the ground wire on the intake manifold. I gave 'er a giggle and she stalled the engine. The bolt was only finger tight. On to problemo numero dos - the water in the exhaust. I'll keep poking around and post an update if I find anything conclusive.

John - I'm not sure I understand where the coolant could be getting in to the valves/head. As I remember it, the only openings on the head where the manifold bolts on are for the combustion air, no coolant passages.

Hmmmm, what to do, what to do. Well, since I might be taking the timing belt off to change out a HG anyways, I think I'll just check the timing for now. If it hasn't jumped a tooth or two, then at least I know it's not a timing issue.

Ok, so the timing might be off and that's affecting the engine at higher RPM's? and causing it to run poor creating the condensation in the exhaust?

I did put a new timing belt in and gave all the pulleys a good inspection. How would a manifold leak cause condensation in the exhaust? Running lean?