[96 Legacy is no-start]

When the key is in "acc" or "on", everything is fine. When I turn it to "start", it's not so good. Sometimes it starts just fine. Sometimes, I get a repeated clicking like a starter solenoid, sometimes everything electrical dies - radio turns off, lights go out, horn doesn't work. I don't understand this, since the horn should always be hot.

 

Let it sit for a few minutes, or unhook the battery cable for a split second, and you hear a click, followed by the electrics coming back to life. Is there some sort of circuit breaker responsible for this, and what could be offending it?

 

I threw a new, used ignition switch at it, but that didn't change anything. Battery tests nice and strong, I don't see much corrosion anywhere. I'd really appreciate any insight you could offer.

[Replacement Battery Suggestions]

Most people aren't aware that lots of auto parts stores sell used batteries from time to time. Call a few local AutoZones and AAPs and ask if they have any used batteries in stock. Should be $25.

 

Often, the batteries aren't used; just past their expiration date. Other times, customers with a bad alternator turn in a battery core that's still fully functional. Try to get the former.

[Quick question: Where's the Coolant Temp Sensor?]

Yeah, it sure sounds like it. :-P

 

I drive the car 2000 miles a year. I don't need it to run well. I just need it to run.

 

The CTS was covered in a mm-thick yellow-brown paste. I'll do a flush and fill tomorrow, complete with a bottle of Coolant Flush. Then we'll see about air bubbles.

[Quick question: Where's the Coolant Temp Sensor?]

Awesome. Thanks, Porcupine! Mine is under a knot of wires, a mass of plastic wire armor, and a wad of electrical tape.

 

What a pain that was for such a simple job. My PCV hoses are probably the original ones, and they're rock-hard. I probably should have changed them, but whatever. And I'd like to slap the engineer who chose those squeeze-type hose clamps over normal worm-gear hose clamps.

 

Once I removed the PCV system, it took me thirty seconds to change the sensor. It naturally leaked a bit of coolant onto my engine, so I did pour 5 gal of water all over the top of the engine. Heh. It didn't run too well until that dried.

 

But it's all sorted out now. I love my 'ru again, for now.

[Quick question: Where's the Coolant Temp Sensor?]

Hi, Porcupine! I'm in Buffalo, as well. Actually, I'm only a few miles from UB, so I ride the bike to school and only put about 200 miles on the car in a month.

 

I've located the IACV, PCV port on the passenger's head, the coolant pipe, and something bolted to the manifold runner that I think is part of the evap system. I'll keep looking.

 

I ordered the part, so it'll arrive on Wednesday. If I can't find it then, I'll start removing nearby parts until I see it.

[Quick question: Where's the Coolant Temp Sensor?]

1996 Legacy, 2.2L. The Haynes manual says it's on the coolant pipe by the upper radiator hose, but I can't find it anywhere.

 

The car won't start when cold. Plus, my Check Engine Light's been on for a month, saying I need a new C.T.S. I'm hoping to locate the sensor so I can unplug it until I get around to replacing it.

 

Thanks.