subaru360
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Posts posted by subaru360
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Hopefully Maine. The house I really wanted half a block from the ocean sold recently before I got enough money together.
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I haven't posted here a lot lately.
This car was a lot of fun to work on. I only drove it around the block a few times but I recall it handling like a go kart.
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all the aa160 mafs are the same. It will work.
97 impreza and 98 outback use the same maf.
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The only way to fix that is to have the block sleeved on that cylinder. You could tap and plug the hole on the outside of the block.
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If you are REALLY motivated you can.
Check out this 3 minute video where a guy put a 4.44 out of an auto into 5mt.That guy is a hack. He was trying to sell that car on ebay and the rollcage was built out of black iron plumbing pipe.
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Anyone have any advise on how to route the fuel lies? IE should I run a return line, should I use the factory evap setup, or should I do something simpler?
I would put a nice aftermarket electric pump back by the tank, below the fuel level or as low as you can. Then run new steel lines up to the front and put a pressure regulator under the hood. I would just vent the evap to the atmosphere somwhere back by the tank. I usually just run a hose with a loop in it along the filler neck and vent it there as high as possible.
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Doesn't sound right.
If the valves stuck open they would have hit the pistons and be bent.
It sure wouldn't run smooth or have good power then.
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I'm getting info I could use gen 1 legacy rear axles (apparently female inner cup) to marry my hub to this LSD from an RX.
I think that would work.
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doing my [first] tranny swap now/... I will use the reversed jack for lifting the tranny. Good tip!
Question! Did you mess with the rear end at all? I'm wondering about inner CV joints and how they pull out of the rear diff on 95 era legacies... I have a diff upgrade which requires pulluing the CVs from the diff, and I do not think mine are like I want them to be....with a pin, like older subies are.
cheers,
-mark-
95 legacy is male rear axles, no pin.
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You need to resurface it now anyway. The guy doing the work for you used one of those 3m pads on the gasket surface and it's not flat anymore.
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There are only 2 of them. 3 wire and 2 wire. Use what the car originally had.
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oh right, i was wondering if these jokers parked it in grass or something. dirt, what does that do?
Same thing rots it out from the bottom up. Holds moisture underneath it.
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Winter driving and especially parking over dirt does them in fast.
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I see that all the time around here. Not uncommon at all.
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Yes, they fit, but it's really tight.
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I'm looking at an engine out of a 98 Impreza OBS 2.2, to put in my 97 Lego wagon.
The Lego has a 2.2 but it needs heads done. They are both automatic.
Will the wiring harnesses match up okay? Are there any differences to deal with?
Same engine. Possibly 1 or two vacuum hoses might be different, no big deal.
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That what I figured after I started web trolling. Is there any reason not to also get the dounut gasket from Autozone or Advance?
Thanks
Greg
The parts places don't stock them and they don't fit right when they get them. For some reason only the factory one fits right.
It'll hold up for a long time, ones I did a few years ago are still leak free.
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You just need to pick up a split flange from autozone and a new donut gasket from the dealer. They all break there. There is almost always enough left for a split flange to grab. Use the bolts that come with the split flange and forget the spring bolts.
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Unplug the abs module under the hood and take the abs bulb out of the dash cluster. The abs sucks on these cars anyway.
Or buy a used hub/spindle assembly if you really want to fix it.
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This tutorial is for an 04 STi, I wouldn't think there would be that much difference in the basic engineering design side of the bushings.
http://turninconcepts.com/instructions/subaru/rear_diff_mount_bushings/index.html
I would give Turnin Concepts an email and see what they can do for you.
The older ones don't have that removable bar. You have to pull the whole rear subframe out.
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You need to pull the crossmember out.
You can try to press them out on a press. They usuually won't come out. Easiest way to get them out is burn all the rubber out with a torch. Then cut the shell with a sawzall and you can get the shell out with a hammer and chisel. The new ones need to be pressed back in.
It's probably cheaper and easier to find a used crossmember with good bushings.
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I haven't heard that before. thanks for the tip!
is that bracket on the axle side or the body side of the trailing arm?
On the body side. The bracket mounting the arm to the body in front of the tire.
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Try Forester or Outback trailing arm brackets before you cut the quarters. They will center the wheel in the wheel well so it doesn't rub the front.
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KYB AGX or Tokico D spec struts will do what you want.
Superoo 72 GL racecar
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
Midcoast or Downeast. I've looked at a few houses in or near Belfast so far.