jreb10
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Posts posted by jreb10
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Does the button light up when pressed? If so, I'd check underhand to make sure the vacuum line from the intake to the cruise unit is hooked up. If it's a manual transmission car, the pedal stopper on the clutch pedal could be broken making the system think you have the clutch pushed in.
Ditto for the brake pedal. There will be a switch somewhere such that the cruise control disengages when the brake pedal is pushed. The switch may be mis-adjusted or broken. Check these type of things first as they are easier than digging into the guts of the system.
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Another idea. I once found a worn front strut top hat in a Hyundai. The rubber had broken down and the bolt was free to move sideways about half an inch, Easy to check by visual inspection. That car had been into an alignment shop and they missed it. Clunking was the symptom as the bolt shifted position.
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Thanks to all. Now that I have recovered my Photobucket access I can post some much needed photos. I should also add that I discovered the axle to be different when I inspected it side-by-side the old axle. I confirmed that the spline count of 23 on the transmission stub end is not right for me. It went in too easily (diameter too large) and did not engage the stub splines. I concluded I need a 25 spline count, and instead rebooted my old axle.
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I tried to order a used OEM Subaru front axle shaft for my
1998 AT Legacy wagon. I messed up, and the axle I received did not fit. I
solved the immediate problem by rebooting my original axle.Now I need to figure out what axle I bought, so I can sell
it to someone who can use it. I did a lot of searching for an answer but remain confused.Supposedly it came off of a 1994 Legacy, AWD with manual
transmission. It is definitely an OEM axle, made by NTN, with the green paint.On the transmission side there is stamped “DOJ 82 AC
NTN”. Inside the tranny end are 23 splines.
If anyone can tell me what I have I would be very happy.
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In addition to Rooster's comments, I like to change the oil and filter before storage. I also use sheets of "Bounce" (used in clothes dryers) to help repel rodents that may try to set up housekeeping. Don't forget to stick a wad of bounce up the tail pipe. Those critters can get up there, as well as into the engine bay. They have been known to gnaw on wiring.
If storing over the winter months, make sure the antifreeze is up to snuff, as well as the window washer fluid.
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Or even simpler: Is the gas cap screwed on properly?
This ^. A loose gas cap can set a code.
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This was an easy fix on my 1998 Legacy L. Search for threads on this topic. As I recall, the switch can be removed by shoving it out of the dash from the rear, then unplugging the harness. I used the Radio Shack bulbs (the ones used for the climate control bulb replacement) for the cruise control switch. I would replace both bulbs in the switch while you are at it.
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This is a common situation and has been discussed a few times. I have done the procedure with Radio Shack bulbs. Here is one link:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&page=1&pp=10&highlight=clima te+control+backlight
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Thanks for all the replies. The boots are intact. I have tried jacking up the front end and trying to wiggle the tires to check the wheel bearings. Everything feels solid.
The rattle sounds too low in tone and frequency to be a heat shield, but you never know. You could almost call it a mechanical knock, usually periodic, but not always so. It does seem to diminish when the car is warmed up, so that is a worthwhile direction to explore. I hope it turns out to be a heat shield.
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My car has 124,000 miles on it. I can hear a sort of rattle from the right front at low speeds, especially when turning to the left. It may be present at higher speeds but masked by the increased engine and road noise. I pulled up the right front caliper but everything looks fine.
I notice that there is a TSB that might be relevant. It is NHTSA #625877 classified under steering. I can only find a summary of the TSB, which describes it as "REGARDING STEERING KNOCKING/RATTLE NOISE WHEN TURNING".
Does anyone have any more descriptive information on this TSB? Thanks in advance for any information.
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how much did you pay for it? im hoping for liek 30 or less...
I Just looked it up. It is $34.37 at http://www.1stsubaruparts.com, before shipping.
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I had the same problem on my 1998 Legacy L. There was a little piece that surrounded the ball that was broken into pieces. That is why the torx screw would not tighten it up. I did glue the pieces together as a short term fix. This worked until I ordered a new mirror. The new one was surprisingly cheap.
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From the McMaster-Carr website:
Part Number: 4860K141
Shape
Adapter
Adapter Type
Female x Male Adapter
Pipe Size
1/8"
Pipe to Pipe Connection
BSPT Male x NPT Female
Material
Yellow Brass
Maximum Pressure (psi)
2900
Maximum Pressure Note
Maximum pressure is rated at 72° F.
Specifications Met
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
ISO Specification
ISO 228 Class A, ISO 7.1
I used this adapter in my EJ22 when I installed an electrical oil pressure gauge. I also used two brass 45 degree street els and a brass tee to keep my transducer and the existing pressure switch well clear of the alternator. Coat all the threads with good quality high temp sealent.
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You may want to consider seat rebuilding as an alternative.
I had the same problem with my recently acquired 1998 Legacy L wagon. The driver's seat padding was toast. I could not find a used seat of the same vintage that did not have the same problem to a greater or lesser extent. I ended up removing the seat and taking it to an auto upholstery shop where they rebuilt the padding, and added some much needed lumbar support. It cost me $140 but the seat is now quite comfortable and good for another 100K miles.
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I just replaced all three bulbs in the HVAC panel in my 1998 Legacy L. Just follow the instructions in the links in the previous post. It is quite straightforward. I did it in less than an hour, working slowly.
The Radio Shack bulbs work just fine. I did make them "longer" to match the old bulbs by using a small length of the empty end of the plastic ink tube from a cheap ball point pen. One tip I can add is that after you have them in the Subaru holders, test them with a 9 volt battery before you trim the wire leads. It's nice to be confident they work before you put them in.
Battery Help
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
CCA is Cold Cranking Amps, and if you are trying to start a car in very cold weather then the higher the cca the more amps will be going to the starter.
But you may want to consider that there are other things that can make starting a problem, such as a balky starter solenoid, worn starter contacts, or internal corrosion on the starter power cable that is not visible from the outside.
Can you elaborate a bit on what you mean by "hard time starting". Is the starter turning the engine over very slowly, or is the starter just clicking a few times and then turning the engine over? Does it take multiple attempts to get the engine to start?
A few more bits of information that could be useful is the mileage on the car, the age of the battery, and if the starter has ever been replaced or overhauled.