[06 Outback wiper blades]

Valeo wiper blades are pretty awesome. Tire rack usually has BOGO on em.

[Differential and Gear Oil]

I am about to switch to valvoline synpower in my wagon

[So what's the deal with 2003 head gaskets?]

Is 2003 2.5L out of the range of potential failure?..or was it 2004?

 

I am considering a 2003 outback with ~45,000 miles but I'd like to avoid any potential head gasket surprises.

[96 OB whirring sound]

5MT + EJ22 was available on the MY1996 Outback. :cool:

 

 

Only year to get a "true" outback with the 2.2L and not the 2.5.

 

'95's had the 2.2, but the weren't "real" outbacks

 

Mobil 1 in the diff is a good idea. I just switched mine after reading suggestions on here (been lurking and reading the site for about a year now).

[Subaru Dreams]

Ha, I had one last night. Driving around in a new sti, which I proceeded to take off a huge jump, but when I landed I was skiing. Yea kinda crazy, but most dreams are

[how much does dent removal cost?]

pics will help. Paint-less dent removal may be able to get it out.

[Fancy Subaru key blanks with LED lighting.]

Thats cool, very cool.

[Looking at a Legacy 2.2]

From what I have read, and experienced first hand, the oil seals will start to leak around 120k. Sure enough my 2.2L started to leak at about 115k. The autos are prone to torque bind which is mucho $$ to replace. Manuals are better IMO. as stated 1996 and before are non-interference which is very good. If you don't know when the timing belt was replaced, then replace it...and since you're in there go for the water pump and oil seals too.

 

I traveled over 4hrs to buy my subie which is a 2.2L with manual tranny. I would accept nothing less. It has been superb, besides all the oil leaks. Once you replace all the seals you should be good for another 120k, again with proper maintenance these cars will runt till they rust out.

[Milky, white paste on oil cap and filler tube]

Well I noticed the crud on the cap...changed the oil...drove 2.5hrs at highway speed...looked at the cap 4 days after the trip and saw crud again, on the cap (and filler neck).

 

I am going to replace the pvc, it is cheap enough. Just unsure if that will solve my problem. What does black chunky stuff on the pvc indicate?

[Milky, white paste on oil cap and filler tube]

No problems in driveability....(and the oil is ~500 miles old btw). I change the oil, so I'll check next time. I should also mention that I took a ~2.5hr all highway trip on this new oil. The crud seemed to start once I started to get cold, it's a pretty thick coating on the cap. I'll try to get a pic tom. although you probably wont be able to notice the thickness.

 

So if there is crap on the pcv, then what kind of problem do I have. Am I looking for chunks of black stuff, cause I saw that when I changed it last time.

 

What does the air filter have to do with this? It's only a few months old, but it was a cheap puralator one.

[Milky, white paste on oil cap and filler tube]

The oil was just changed. I change the oil just about every 3,000 miles since I owned the car (2yrs). The coolant is fine, level hasn't dropped noticeably. I did run seafoam thru the fuel last tank, so ?? I replaced the PVC last year with subaru oem...but that doesn't mean it isn't bad/clogged...

 

So...? go ahead and replace the pvc?

 

Thanks for the replies btw

[Milky, white paste on oil cap and filler tube]

Hi, first post....been lurking for awhile

 

My problem is just as the title states. I have a 1996 Legacy Outback 2.2L. I drive ~20 min everyday one way to school on the highway and just started to notice a white paste like substance in my filler neck and my oil cap. I did check the dipstick, and that shows no signs of whiteness. What do you guys think this is. It has been getting cold around these parts, but as i said - I drive highway+ speeds ~15min one way everyday.