lollydolly

Yeah, it has fairly low-ish mileage for it's age - I only drive it 3 days a week to work - 4 miles each way, but in very bad traffic, so it's running for about 45 minutes. I walk everywhere else. As long as I can make it to the store tonight and back before taking it in tomorrow, I'll be happy. I'll let you know what the mechanic tells my husband (oh yes, he goes in, not me for obvious reasons!)

Sorry, it was probably green. I know it was colored - but I know that it wasn't the windshield fluid. That and oil are the only things I trust myself to fill up because I know where they are. It was the white tank next to the radiator.

Nope, West Side Imports in West Seattle.

1/8 of coolant in the overflow (the white tank, yes?) is too much? Crap, this is where we added the water to half way up. Did we just screw up the car? When we drove back, after filling the overflow tank with water, the car didn't have any issues. The coolant was blue, looked fine... I wish we could go back to horses. Not sure on my mileage - I think I'm hovering around 85K. Would this be discounted through the dealer? I bought this car used about 3 years ago.

Sorry to play the dumb girl, but do you have some quick and dirty instructions on how to know when the fan is on, and how to clear dead insects, etc?

I have to drive about 2 miles today, non-freeway. As long as the temp stays in a good place, do you think it will be ok? Thanks also for your response!

Do you mean just looking at my driveway and making sure there isn't fluid that's leaked out of my car? Now that's something I can do! And I doubt I have the Conditioner in it. My tune-up was done by a garage, not the dealership. I've only taken the car into the dealership once, and that was years ago. But I could order the coolant from a local dealership - I've ordered parts from them before. Thanks!

Thanks for all the replies! I did state that there was coolant in the overflow tank, probably about 1/8 full of coolant was still in there. We then filled the tank to about half full with water before returning to our house. Also, when the car "overheats" (not sure this is actually correct, as the temperature only gets near "H", never goes above that) it's only for maybe 30 seconds. When it's driving it's always fine, always a little under half-way up, where it's always been. The instance where heat didn't come out has only happened once, and when it happened, it lasted for maybe 3 seconds - wondering if what you all are describing is an event that happens more frequently and for a longer period of time than that? As you can see, I'm really hoping this isn't the HG - $1500 is fairly un-doable for us right now! (thanks hot water tank for dying last month!) Is the cost for that mostly labor? Is it because it's just difficult to get to or something? Thanks again everyone! I love this forum. Hate my Subaru sometimes but love that I can get advice from this place!

Sorry, forgot to tell you what kind of car I have! 2000 Subaru Outback. Yes, I know, prime candidate for the headgasket issue.

Hi all, I've been trying to find info on this from all over but keep getting blown headgasket results, which isn't my problem. Here's my situation: Live in Seattle, so traffic is awful. I drove home from work in heavy, then light, then heavy, light, etc, traffic. Car was fine. 15 minutes after getting home, back in the car with my husband to drive to a suburb about 20 minutes away. We drove about 1/2 mile, hit a stop light before getting on the freeway. The engine temperature starts on it's way up to red. Husband turned on heater full blast, the temp went down to normal. Got on freeway, car was fine. Drove 50-60 mph the whole way, no issues, no acceleration problems, nothing. Got off freeway, first stoplight, car was fine. Second stoplight, temp goes up again, turned heater on full blast, heat comes through, but then for a second or two, no heat, just regular air, then seconds later, back to heat and temp went down, no other issues during other stoplights (3) and after arriving at our destination, we sat in the car for a minute or so with the car idiling, and the temp was fine. Before leaving about 3 hours later, we put some water in the radiator overflow, which had still had some coolant in it. Drove home, with heater on "0" setting, no temp issues at all on freeway or at stoplights. - The headgasket isn't blown (yet I know), so finding info for a blown headgasket isn't helping. - There is no coolant smell coming through our vents. - The CEL is not on, has never come on. - Car drives wonderfully, no hesitation, no shifting issues, no high RPM, no engine noises. - Had a full tune up 4 months ago. So, could this just be a thermostat problem? If so, how much could that run to fix? Also, if it is a headgasket, and I get it replaced, how much should I expect? I've been finding (online) stories of $1000-$2000, but this seems to only be for blown headgaskets, which I know when they blow, they cause other issues. Sorry for the novel, but wanted to get all the circumstances in. You all helped me SO MUCH with my knock sensor issue months ago I had to come back. I'm taking it in tomorrow, but want to be braced an have all info available to me as possible. THANKS!

This car has a lot of personality. The back seat doesn't fold down anymore, the plastic inside cover for the tailights has fallen off, the door doesn't seal all the way... lots of personality.

This is good to know. There is a Carquest store also very close to me - any opinion on them? And I may have solved the mystery of why the CEL goes off after my husband has used the car. It makes no sense though. The only difference when he drives it is that he adjusts the seat, and I have to adjust it back. (It's motorized, I'm sure you know). I did that yesterday and this morning, and for the first time in, well, I can't remember, the CEL was off when I turned on the car after I was the last one to use it and with the CEL on. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it's either a huge coincidence, or I have a really freaky car. Thanks for the help all!

Probably a realllly dumb question, but that is a different sensor than the knock sensor, right?

...and sorry for all the typos.

After doing a quick and dirty internet search on knock sensors, I see that the problem may have been caused by me using the crappy grade of gas? One messageboard I say someone said the dealership wanted over $500 to replace it. Yeek. Surely, a sensor couldn't be that expensive? Also, I sa if you don't get it fixed, you can cause engine damage. By driving with my CEL on for about 2 months, do you think I may have done more damage? A always, thanks for the help!

Um, I think you're fine - you are fine, right? Not playing around with the resident "my car light thingy is on what do I do" girl. So, I got the code: P328 - knock sensor 1. Guy at Schucks didn't tell me what it did, but said it costs about $89 - $150. They didn't have it in stock. So, is my car going to blow up on my commute into work tomorrow?

I've read a little of the headgasket scariness. So, if the Schucks guy mentions that, try my best not to break down sobbing in their parking lot, and laying down on the ground, clutching his ankles while screaming "WHY? WHY????" Knowing my luck this year with gas leaks, emergency plumbing and leaks, I wouldn't be surprised it wasn't worst case scenario.

I wish I had known about this board the last 2 times (and about a thousand dollars ago) the CEL went off. I'll try and check in tonight and let you know.

Sorry - I had no idea these could be two issues. And I just called the Schucks near me, they will do it for free.

Oh, I'm posting it here. You've already been so much help. Not sure. I'm going to have my husband look at that tonight. [QOUTE]Get a new radiator cap. Subaru caps seem to get tired after 4-5 years for some reason. Sometimes this is simple enough to solve the problem. This is very helpful to know. Would the CEL coming on and then going off behaviour be inline with this issue? I'm going to call Shucks in a few and see if they'll do it. And clear it.

Yes, I need to know this too. All I know is my ugly orange "Check Engine" light is on, glaring at me. No other lights are on - the temp light is not on, and the gauge shows it being where it needs to be - in the middle. (Oh, and I have made sure the gas cap is secure). Thanks for the welcome guys! I'm learning already from this board - I had no idea Autozone would do this for free. I've taken it into the mechanic before and they've charged me like $40 just for the codes to be pulled. Too bad it's autozone, I live about 4 blocks from Shucks, and the nearest AutoZone is pretty far. But I'll do it to avoid taking it in and getting charged and not seeing the code myself (and finding out on this messageboard what it means!)

I know this is probably really broad, but thought I'd check here before I take the car into a mechanic so I may sound like I know what I'm talking about when talking with them. 2000 Outback, 80K miles. The check engine light comes on whenever I'm driving - seems to happen more often when I'm stuck in traffic going less than 25 mph. Nothing seems wrong at all with the car - performance is fine, engine temp is fine, no shuddering, etc. A couple times lately though, I've noticed the heat being normal, nice and hot, but then it will turn lukewarm / cold for a minute or so before going back to hot. The engine temperature appears not to waiver. This doesn't happen all the time. Probably 3 times in 2 months. Also, another weird thing - when my husband uses the car, when he first turns it on after I've used it, the check engine light is on. He will drive it, then the next time HE turns it on, the light goes off. The next time I drive the car after him, the light will be off, but eventually come back on. And usually I take it in the second the light comes on - I'm not normally this neglectful, but we had a huge plumbing disaster recently and we haven't been able to afford to take it in. Bleh. ANY ideas would be appreciated.