thecryoflove
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Posts posted by thecryoflove
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Ok. So the last Subaru I had was an '86 gl wagon with an EA82 wagon. I recently bought the said vehicle in the title and was stoked about the extra power with the Turbo (still an ea82) engine, but when I talked to my other soob nut friend he cautioned me against the turbo, cuz when it goes out it creates tons of issues.
So my question... what should I do to check up on and maintain this engine so I don't have to deal with it when it goes out? Also, I read some threads on replacing CV joints (they sound like they are starting to go out) but a couple said "if it's a turbo, disregard everything I said"... great! My Chilton's for some doesn't have the CV joint info (just the CV boot checkup and replacement). So any advice on where to get some info on the CV joint replacement of this car?
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Ok... I;ve toasted it. Ever since I've owned it it has had a tick that goes in and out intermittently, but a couple days ago it started rumbling (the engine) like it never has before. Then I parked it for 1 minute while I ran into Hollywood Video and returned to her not starting. She's turning over but it's a high pitched noise and she refuses to start.
Does this sound like head gaskets? And if it is my head gaskets, is there any way I can check the heads themselves for warping or cracks, or di I got to take it in for that?
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First off, sorry for the delay, it's been crazy...
For me head gaskets aren't an afternoon job =) I did burp it and it belched a lot, they came back (and pretty much instantly...only drove 10 miles before it was gurgling like a SOB)... now also...after letting it sit for a while longer (it's in timeout) it is spiking and jumping on the tacho when i get to about 3000 RPM's... I'm really hating this digi dash... oh, and still overheating
is there a standalone thermometer i can install to check temp?
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Hey all. A brief history of the issues of my '86, manual transmission, 1.8 L, ea82, Subaru GL wagon.
So I came back to Ellensburg, WA early December (central washington) where my baby was parked for about 3 months. She ran wonderfully for a while. Then came gurgling behind the dash... few weeks later she overheats. Top her off with antifreeze and she still overheats. Change the thermostat... works better, but only for a few hours then overheats again. At this point the overheating is like this... temp climbs steadily and fairly slowly until gets to the red, then maybe back down below (but still high), then back up again, and then evens out at running temp instantly. I (unfortuantely) have a digital dash in this thing so I'm also wondering if maybe it's lying to me. Anyways, I must also mention that at this point she only overheats when the heat is ON!!! 2 seconds after I switch it from hot to cold she evens out instantly temperature wise. So I parked her on an incline and ran her with the radiator cap off and she expelled lots o bubbles!!! FInally after about 45 minutes of burping her I installed a new radiator cap and let her be. Seemingly it fixed the problem (idled for about 45 minutes without budging from running temp). Took her in to town.... overheating and now the hot/cold does not affect anything...she just overheats no matter what. Woke up this morning (burped her yesterday) and some new gurgling behind the dash... I am positive she had all bubbles out of her yesterday.
So now... please tell me my head gaskets aren't screwed. Tell me there's an easy fix.... please!
I should also mention that when I was burping her the upper radiator hose was, of course, warm. Then when I took her in to town after that (when she overheated) i checked the upper radiator hose and she was cold!!!!
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Hey. It's been a while, but still need your help...
OK, so about a week ago I started getting some groaning in the front passenger wheel. I took off the hubcap and the nut in the center (with the codder pin in it...excuse me for lack of part name) was extremely loose, to the point of being able to just flick it to and fro. I hand tightened it down and the groans stopped. Next day groans again... nut loose again. This time I really reef on it (mechanic friend says to give it all, that it isn't in conjunction with the bearings and that he impact wrenches 95% of his) and the groans stop again. Two days later (today), it's groaning like it never groaned before and the nut is not as loose... but noticeably looser than when I tightened it (the groaning is more of a clunking actually, seems to go with the wheel revolutions and gets louder with the clutch in and breaking... also, when passing close by concrete buildings I can hear the echo and it sounds like a compressor giving off short bursts of air pst..pst...pst...pst--- this is when there is no clunking). Also, I can hear some tire rubbing where there has never been tiring rubbing before. Really stumped with this one.
So I have two questions: 1) Was it wrong to tighten it with no mercy? Or is it supppose to be super tight?
2) What can cause the nut to keep coming loose? The codder pin has been put back in both times, tho it has been a little loose, didnt think it mattered (figured it worked like a trailer hitch sort of, just to keep it from sliding off in extreme cases)
EDIT: Also... I replaced the fuel filter and it was backwards... just curious how much affect this has on fuel system...
Thanks!!!!!
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can anyone else see the pictures? i uploaded them on a different computer and now i'm at home and can see them
Also GeneralDisorder... how can you be sure I have a feedback carb? There is no computer underneath the the kick panel... what other tell-tale signs are there if I have a feedback carburator?
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Here are some shots of the engine and such... just to preface, I know I have a lot missing out of this car since I compared it to my friends 86 GLSW ea82 he just bought.
If you're standing at the front of the car looking at the engine, this is at the upper right corner.
If you're standing at the front of the car looking at the engine, this is at the upper left corner... the tube I'm holding is cut just out of the picture, don't know where it's suppose to lead to
The dash... don't know why I have the automatic dash and a manual transmission... the tone of the dash is not the same as the rest of the interior either... so I'm thinking it was replaced, rather than the transmission being replaced.
Nothing is connected here....
Shot of the engine... I have a lot of missing parts =)
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Ok, since I'm fairly certain that this is my problem with my lack of power and my 23mph highway..is there a write up on exactly that? Removing the feedback system and jetting it so it works without it? I'm guessing my carb could use a rebuild too, but I wouldn't mind starting with getting rid of the feedback to see where that gets me.
That was my first reaction... where is a run-through of making the feedback system a non-feedback system?
EDIT: Oh yea... I also have adjusted the timing up to 12 from 8. The manual says 8, but there was a lag (accelerated and would hear about about .5 sec worth of whirring before it actually revved) and there is no lag at 12.... would this be a bad idea?
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Irregarldless, it's probably still not "clogged". You can punch it out and drive on. Most models had only a single cat in the y-pipe anyway.
Unfortunately, you have a very difficult situation as I feared from your first post. You have a feedback, computer controlled carb. It's a very complex system - one that is difficult to work with based as much on it's complexity as it's age, and obscurity.
It does have some self-diagnostic abilities. There is a computer under your dash on the drivers side. Remove the kick panel and LEAVE IT OFF. The computer is primitive, and does not store codes. When the indicator light on the dash comes on (if it hasn't been disabled) the ECU will flash codes in a standard long-short format. This will help you diagnose the feedback system itself.
Most likely, a major cause of your poor mileage is BOTH the feedback system, and the carb itself. You are going to need to rebuild the carb as the top-plate gasket will be shot along with a lot of the rubber bits. It will need cleaning and reassembly to function properly again.
You will also need to learn a LOT about the feedback system to repair it and acheive it's rated 28 to 30 MPG. There's almost no one outside of myself and a few others on this board that know anything at all about them - Dealerships are no help, and generic auto shops will do more harm than good in all likelyhood.
Frankly your best bet is to yard that carb off and install a non-feedback Hitachi, or re-jet the feedback to the specifications of a non-feedback. Either choice is pretty cheap.
You could also install a Weber 32/36 DGV with an adaptor plate, or you could retrofit the later throttle body injection. Both are a bit more work - the TBI (SPFI in Subaru land) being the most work, but also the larges return - best mileage and best drivability.
GD
What do you mean when you say "retrofit the later throttle body injection"?
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I'm sure it's not a fuel injected... it's a carb. As for the catalytic converter... the mechanic told me I had one out, and from the sounds of it I think I do also. Sounds just like the Suzuki I had when the cat was bad on that... really rattley when I get up to about 3000 RPM.
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You need the O2 sensor. That explains why you are getting 16 mpg. Carb or SPFI?
Carb i believe
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Hey thecryoflove,
Where is the cat that is bad? The one mid-car? I've gutted one, but I had to remove that mid-pipe it's connected to, then gut it. Save what comes out of it, it's worth $$ to a recycler. The front cat is a different story, the one in the Y pipe.
I recommend you don't mess with the thermostat until you understand what you're doing, and why. You can damage your engine if it's not done right.
Doug
What do you mean the front cat is a different story? As in,don't touch it... or you won't have to remove as much to get at it...
Also... does the O2 sensor affect this engine much? Mine is connected, but all the wires are cut! I'm assuming it's a bad sensor... but is it worth replacing?
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Johnson']First things' date=' plugs, wire, cap and rotor. Bring the cap and rotor into the store to compare to the ones they give you, they like to give the wrong ones.
Fuel filters, I think if it is carb'd, there's two. One in the engine bay and one in front of the rear tire, under the car, above a shield, next to the fuel pump.
For the brakes, I bleed LF, RR, RF, LR. Make sure the fluid that's coming out is good looking and that you're keeping the brake resevoir topped off.
Goto a local Subaru dealer and get a thermostat. The dealer is the only one that carries the right Thermostat, all aftermarket ones seem to suck and not be as flowing.
If your mileage doesn't improve after that, I'd check your catalytic convertor to see if it is clogged, that could be the reason your car is getting crap mileage, and if the leak is in front of the convertor, it could also be from too much back pressure because of the convertor. Do you have slow acceleration?
I'd do timing belts too. Here's a write up on how to do, thanks to Board member, Milesfox.
Welcome to the board and don't feel afraid to ask questions, after you search.
Replacing the thermostat will improve overall running condition? Also, I took it in to get the muffler replaced and I've been told I have one bad catalytic converter. Can I just remove it and hollow it out till I can afford a new one?
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Hey all. New to the forums. Was given a '94 Suzuki Sidekick that was not running. Got it running and sold it for $2250, to buy a $380 1986 Subaru GL Wagon. EA82 engine, 5 speed manual. Anyways... it needs some work on it. I got about 16 MPH on the first check (only 104 miles but I was too anxious) and was pretty disappointed. The brakes are really soft, bled them once and no difference though I read you need to do it RR, LF, LR, RF, so I'm gonna do it again (how much of a difference does it really make?). There's a leak in the exhaust...anyways I'm stoked for the cheapness of it. Will be asking more questions and posting pictures tomorrow.
Question:
As far as a general tune up goes, upon getting a Subaru, what are the first things I need to check/replace?
'90 Loyale AWD Turbo Wagon
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by thecryoflove
Thanks for the tips guys... sounds like replacing the axle is the way to go.
Also have another question... this thing is idling super low (about as close to zero as you can get) and usually dies coming out of reverse because of it. On cold mornings it idles higher (about 2000-2500) and settles low so everything is working properly there, but what should I set it to idle to (I'm assuming my Chilton's will have the run down on adjusting it)?
Also, last time I worked on my 86 wagon (when I used these forums more) I saw a thread about people's preferred timings. Should I stick with what the book says for my timing or does anybody got some better ideas?
Sorry if these are stupid questions, but I've been out of the soob game for a while now =(
Also... what should I ask for when I go in for the CV front axle parts? CV front axle? Is that what it's called? =) Sorry guys, I'm no mechanic... just a DIY guy =)