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CJK440

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Posts posted by CJK440

  1. The A/c system in my 96 Legacy GT crapped out. It keeps blowing the 10 amp AC fuse. If I temporarily jump the fuse the compressor clutch engages but starts to slip (you can see the clutch hub spinning with the belt then it skips etc).

     

    I assume the solenoid that engages the clutch is bad, its burnt out which doesn't grab like its supposed to and draws more amps than it should. I checked with chain parts stores and they want $300 for a compressor but don't list the clutch seperate. Any way to fix the clutch on this reasonably or should I look for a junkyard part.

  2. I'm familiar with a part time 4wd system, the bind occours due to the fact that the front diff carrier rotates at a different speed than the rear when going around turns.

     

    To prevent the binding a center "differential" needs to be used to allow the carriers to spin at different speeds.

     

    The Lecacy has something like this I guess. A viscous coupling?? Not familiar with the inner workings.

     

    My car is an automatic. I am not sure of tire circumference. The tires, allthough the same brand and size are shot and need replacing.

     

    But irregardless of my tire curcumference something has to give when turning. The operates fine in regular driving and regular turns. Only when the wheel is locked to one side does it feel like there is a bind. Maybe its a CV joint getting near lock, not sure.

     

    I just heard that "torque bind" is a common ailment of these cars and wondered if what I was experinceing was that.

  3. I have a check engine light on my 96 Legacy GT.

     

    It was scanned and shows a knock sensor problem. I changed plugs, undid the battery and no difference.

     

    Should I look at the sensor itself?? Any way to test it????

     

    Would a tank of 87 octane cause a check engine light when Subaru recomends 91 octane???

     

    I recently filled it with 93 but after I pulled the battery cable so maybe the fuel change helped but the computer is still showing the old fault.

  4. Yesterday I changed the timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires pcv, air, fuel & oil filters and oil in just a few hours.

     

    I must admit I am impressed on how easy it is to work on this thing. About the toughest thing to do was remove the spark plugs since I had to really jam my big hands into the engine bay.

     

    Not to shabby.

     

    I have all but avoided foreign cars in the past and this is really the most work I have ever done on an import.

     

    My "other" vehciles include a 96 Dodge Ram 5.9, 95 Mustang GT 5.0 and a 71 440 Cuda all with good ole american V8's.

     

    I am truely impressed with this car's construction.

  5. I didn't have a strap wrench for removing the crank bolt so I used the alt/power steering belt wrapped around the crank and alternator and double-backed over itself. A little hand pressure on the belt kept alot of grip on the crank pulley.

     

    Take the belt and place it over both pulleys. To remove the bolt take the slack on the driver side and push it in to the pass side. Let the slack feed under the belt as it wraps over the crank pulley and slowly rotate the crank. The belt will jam under itself and as long as you keep the belt from slakening it will allow you to loosen the crank bolt.

     

    Probably not the best for the belt (end up with a kink) but worked great.

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