Sierradump

Thanks for the update! I must have spent 2hrs looking for that 2nd filter yesterday! Thanks for the idea on making my own gaskets! I ended up doing that - I used some fiber gasket material about the same thickness as my "squished/used" old gaskets... They should hold up well and limit any air leaks at the carb.

Thanks for the response... Yes it is an 1985 StationWagon GL with the EA82 motor. Any help on locating this elusive 2nd fuel filter is much appreciated!

Okay I am having some bad luck finding all these parts on this car! Never found the 2nd fuel filter and now I am looking/hunting for the Coolant Temperature Sensor that is throwing code 24 on my 85 GL. The sensor is the one for the computer or feedback carb system... I found the one for the temp guage which is located by the upper radiator hose on the intake manifold, but I can't seem to find this second CTS sensor? By any chance does the computer AND guage use the same sensor? NAPA sold me a part #: TX-18 sensor and I can't find this sensor anywhere on the car! I am beginning to think they sold me a bunch of parts I don't need/have on the car? (i.e. this sensor and the 2nd fuel filter:confused:) Just confused because the car is throwing code 24 which says CTS sensor/circuit failure.

Driving me crazy!!! Anyone know where this second filter goes on the EA82? I found the one under the car at rear by tank, but I can't locate this 3 inlet/outlet filter? I am beginning to wonder if I don't have this 2nd filter on my car??? Would hate to button everything back up after cleaning fuel system and have this elusive 2nd filter dirty up my carb again!!! Thanks to anyone who can help!

I found the first filter in front of gas tank and right rear tire, but where is this 2nd fuel filter i hear about all the time????? People say it in engine bay but I can't find it??? (ALSO, does anyone know the part # for the carburetor to intake manifold gasket? I took carb off to clean it out and I can't find the gasket!!!)

Hey I really appreciate you helping me out with this! I notice the car never gets very hot to the touch? The temperature guage constantly stays around 40% (no digits, just a L and H)... Does the temperature gauge run off of the CTS? Just curious as the gauge seems to read accurate? When cold guage is at COLD (marked L on guage)... After 5 mins the gauge slowly rises to about 40% and stays steady. At $400 I would like to try and get it to pass smog and just use as a beater car this winter!

Hmm, I can do any swaps I want AFTER i get it smogged... I live in a county that only requires smog upon transfer of title - after that I could put a v8 chevy in it and would never have to smog again! However I simply bought it for good gas mileage. I think at this point I will try and clean the carb and associated vacuum hoses and just try to get it to pass smog. I took it to a pre-smog inspection this morning and it was spitting out crazy #'s for HC (like 980ppm)... Its supposed to be around 100-120... Any quick fixes for this to mask the problem just to pass smog? Once I get the certificate I can swap out to SPFI or the Weber carb

Can anyone confirm this??? I do live in CA and bought the car from a california owner...

For code 24 is it possibly related to the IDLE-UP Solenoid/Circuit? I found this while researching code 24: "coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted)" Car is hard to start cold (dies unless I feather throttle - once warm it behaves but idles at 1250 RPM) What parts do I need at the junkyard? Guage cluster and speedometer cable? Is it possible to rip the computer out? That doesn't bother me if the car will run the same! (also needs to pass CA smog though :-\)

Thanks for your suggestions, can you tell me how I would reset the codes??? Also I found this while searching the code 24: coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted) . The subaru is hard to start when cold, and once warm behaves as normal - but idles at around 1250 RPM. Is this possibly related to the IDLE-UP solenoid/circuit? RE: broken speedometer? Is there any way to check/see if it is somehow salvagable? I don't have any oil dripping on the floor above drivers legs? I trust your judgement so if you say replace I will, but the dash is otherwise in pretty good shape!!! Clean with no cracks!

1985 Subaru GL (carbureted) 5 sp transmission. Got my codes finally flashed, thanks to all who helped me figure this out. Turns out the module with the led that flashes codes was dislodged and pointed up towards steering column and I couldn't see the light at all!!! I had to turn all lights off in my garage (total darkness) and saw a hint of a light!! Repositioned the module (silver box) and was able to pull codes!!! I am getting the following codes, any tips as to what sensors may need to be replaced - or what needs to be looked at? CODES: (-- 1984 Through 1988 Carbureted Models --) 22 --- Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 24 --- coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted) 73 --- Ignition Pulse System Possible issue causing code 22 ??? Not sure if this is an issue but the speedometer hasn't worked since I bought the vehicle - as soon as car starts rolling(1-2mph actual speed), the speedometer pegs itself out to max travel at 125mph and stays there until car stops, it then drops back to 0mph... Possible issue causing code 24 ??? The subaru is rough to start. It cranks and fires but unless I feather the throttle when its cold, it just dies. Once warmed up the vehicle starts normal - but it idles at about 1250 RPM and I believe it is supposed to idle at 700-800 RPM? Possibly this is related to the IDLE-UP solenoid? I am clueless to the 73 code!! Any help is much appreciated!

Right I realize that the plugs are male/female, but are all the connectors supposed to be connected??? In the diagram on trouble codes - it shows several pairs of connectors that are NOT connected - I assume this is the factory default? I.e. the green connectors disconnected, the black connectors disconnected etc... And to get the codes to flash the numbers you simply connect a pair of these connectors and turn the key to the "ON" position... EVERY pair of connectors under my dash are currently connected? Can anyone confirm that they are either supposed to be connected, or left unconnected for regular driving around - not diagnosing? Thanks!!!

Thanks for the info... I have turned my attention away from flashing codes, and just want to get the wiring back to factory default - I think the previous owner has hooked up a bunch of cables that were not supposed to be hooked up (probably looked under dash there and plugged everything together that he could...) Does anyone know if the green connectors AND black connectors are supposed to be plugged together when NOT diagnosing the system? Just factory default? I think part of my confusion was not seeing any wires that WERE NOT connected? Looks like previous owner was digging around under dash and hooked all the connectors up to each other...

Ya I am still confused and haven't successfully gotten any flashing lights... I looked all over the ECU and did NOT see any hole or led where a light would be flashing? Can someone describe where on the ECU of an 1985 Carbed GL I would find this LED? Also I found 2 connectors under my steering column that were ALREADY connected? There was a pair of green connectors (1 terminal in the connectors) and a pair of black connectors ( 2 terminals in the connector ). BOTH OF THESE CONNECTORS WERE ALREADY CONNECTED? So I didn't assume they were the diagnostics connectors? Is it possible the previous owner didn't know what they were and connected them together? Does it sound like these are the diagnostic connectors? I unplugged both of the connectors and the ECS light is no longer coming on - but I think it is because by unhooking both of those connectors I disabled it? Sorry if it sounds like I need spoonfeeding - but this is my first subaru and I have no experience with the ECS light or trouble code system on this vehicle... Thanks for any input!

Okay so for anyone else that might buy a Subaru and is interetsed in finding their connectors, I found this to be very much informative! http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Sorry if it sounds like I need spoonfeeding, I just don't see these connectors? I just need to know where these connectors are!!! Iv'e already been banging my own head against the fenders! Can you just let me know if there are supposed to be male and female connectors? Like the green one for instance, Do I need a paperclip to short out terminals on the connector like I did in the ford??? There are no other connectors in the vicinity that would plug into that green terminal.

Haha okay now I am really confused... Thanks for bearing with me. I know how to read the flashes, I just need help figuring out how to get it to flash!!! I have a 1985 Sub. GL. So according to the instructions, my connectors should be under the dash. When I look up under the dash I don't see any wires - do I need to remove the lower covers on the dash to see these "connectors"... Also you mention my green connector is in the engine compartment - I see that, but what do I do with it? Do I short out some terminals? It says to "plug connectors together" in the instructions - but there is only a male connector and no matching female connector? Thanks again for helping me figure this out and sorry if I am not understanding something that is apparently easy for everyone else!!!

Ya I saw where it mentioned that but I am a little confused... Is that for ALL carbureted models, or just the 1989? So if that is just for 1989 mine should be under the dash then? What about the light? It says it flashes the codes on the oxygen monitor light on the ECU? Is that a light that is on the actual computer? Where can I find the computer? Sorry if this has been asked before but I have been searching and can't find it. I even went down and bought the chilton manual - it has wiring diagrams, but doesn't show the location of the ECU... Thanks again!

Hey thanks for the links to the codes, but I can't figure out how to get the car to flash the codes to me? Right now I am only concerned with the "read memory" codes, or the codes that are stored... With my old car (ford) I just had to use a paper-clip to short out two circuits and the check engine light would flash? Do I do something similar here with the Subaru??? Where are the connectors located? I have some wires/connectors on the engine side of the firewall on the drivers side that don't have anything attached to them - are these the diagnostic ports/connectors???????????? Is the check engine light supposed to flash, or is there another light under the dash somewhere? THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Okay I bought the car and had it towed home. When I got it home it took me all of 4 minutes to get it started! It turns out there was a hose that runs to the carburetor that WAS NOT attached, it looks like a vaccum hose. Once I attached it, I sprayed a shot of starter fluid in the carb just to get it to crank/fire a few times to prime the system - but it actually fired right up and with a little feathering of the throttle it ran and I drove it around the block a few times. The carburetor definitley needs to be cleaned up. It is gunked up and something has the accellerator sticking at WOT where the spring won't pull it back down. But other than that I can't complain for $400!!! Hopefully it turns out to be a great winter commuter for my 2mile round trip to work! BEATS FIRING UP MY DIESEL TRUCK EVERYDAY! Probably save that $400 in about 2 months if I use the subaru everyday!

PROBLEM SOLVED: The light that flashes codes was on a module that had been dislodged/pointed up behind steering column. I could not see the flashing light. LIGHT IS NOT ON THE ECU MODULE, BUT ON A SILVER COLORED MODULE DIRECTLY UNDER STEERING COLUMN. Light points forward towards driver. Green test connectors should be unplugged, black connectors plugged together for normal/factory-default configuration. With this configuration drive car till ECS light comes on, leave car running after light comes on and look at light; note the code flashes - then look them up here on the link posted further down this thread. THANKS TO ALL FOR HELPING AND BEARING WITH ME! READ BELOW FOR ORIGINAL ISSUE: I have a carbureted 1985 Subaru GL I just bought (I bought the 5sp manual instead of the automatic! I like the lever for 4WD instead of push button!) I was cruising it around today seeing what all I need to fix and everything seems in order HOWEVER the ECS light is on? It wasn't on when I started the car, came on about 5 mins after I started it up. Is there a FAQ or Walk-Thru for reading the codes on this vehicle? I would really appreciate it! It wasn't overheating, it had good power, all the fans come on - it seems like a good buy at $400.

So this year Subaru (1985) doesn't have any cam or crank sensors etc to worry about? The Wagon fired up a few times when I went to look at it but would only idle while feathering throttle then would even die sometimes while feathering throttle. it would backfire out the carb at the end of cranking when it didn't start starting... I think the timing is good as when it did start (while feathering throttle) it sounded good/healthy. I am sort of thinking it may be spark related??? Maybe the coil or distributor? Does this make sense? As there was fuel squirting out of the carburetor when pumping accelerator. I am going this afternoon to look at it again so any advice or things to look at check would be REALLY appreciated! Thanks again!

Thanks for the advice! For the sake of getting it started to get it home for proper repair is there anything I can do to get it started? Any "band-aid" tricks??? how do I check the choke? I want it completely closed on the front barrel/butterfly when cold correct? Could I give it a shot of starter fluid to see if I can get it started??? Whats a pull off???? You mention to check it? ALSO - Does this car have OBD? Is it possilbe that the issue is a crank or cam position sensor? There is no check engine light on or anything - but I spent the last hour searching on here and most of the "won't start" threads were from cam/crank sensors! This is an 1985 so I don't even know if it has those sensors or not!

Okay sorry for posting a 2nd thread but my other thread is rather long and this is sort of off topic from "which car should I buy"... I want to buy this 1985 Subaru GL. Naturally Aspirated (carb) with a 5sp. I had a friend go look at it for me last wednesday because I had to work and he said it drove GREAT! He said it had enough power to cruise up hills in 3rd gear... ( I live at 6200 feet elevation so this was a concern of mine) When I went to buy it - it wouldn't start. It was cold outside and it almost seemed like a fuel issue? We found that the carburetor was stuck wide open, and we had been cranking it for about 30secs like that before we found that out. We got the throttle to close (linkage was binding on a hose) and it fired up but then died/shut off immediatley. After a little more tinkering, we got it to start and run for about 10-20 secs as i feathered the throttle. But as soon as I let off, it died again... I know it was getting gas as it even backfired a few times out the carburetor while we were cranking it - a sign that there is gas and possibly a flooded manifold? The guy said he thinks it needs a new carburetor - but that didn't sound right to me? Carburetors don't just stop working - sure they get dirty, but you wouldn't need a NEW carburetor - you could clean the old one? What has me confused is it seems to be an intermitent problem? Like last Wed. my buddy drove it all over and it ran great, idled great, no problems. Now it won't even start? The owner said he had fuel issues with it and ultimatley just gave his daughter the extra car they had... and that is why they are selling this one? Should I buy this? It seems to me to be an easy fix? Maybe cap/roter/spark plugs? Or possibly cleaning the carb and linkages??? He is extremely negotiable on the price and I could probably walk away with it (since it doesn't drive right now:grin:) for $300-400. I figure i'll get it started and get it to my house 10 miles away. Thanks for any tips...

HELP ME FIGURE THIS ISSUE OUT??? Okay so I went and have looked at ALL the vehicles... I think I want to go with the 1985 5 Speed NON-Turbo. It is the cleanest and looks well taken care of... Couple of issues though - IT WOULDN'T START ! I had a friend go check it out last Wednesday and he drove it all over town -- said the thing had plenty of power for our hills... I went late last night to check it out and potentially buy it but it wouldn't start. I had a mechanic buddy with me (works on tractors/loaders so not really a car mechanic but he knows his stuff) Took him 5 minutes to figure out the throttle was stuck WIDE OPEN. The linkage on the carb was sticking to a hose of some sort... After we got that closed and back to normal the car wouldn't start - we figured it was flooded so we waited about 20mins and tried it again. THIS TIME IT FIRED UP but died immediatley. We waited another 5 mins and started it again -- it fired up ran for 10 secs and died. He then pulled the air cleneaner off, popped open the choke plate just a little and I started it and it ran fine, I had to feather the throttle to keep it going. THIS WAS NOT AN ISSUE LAST WEDNESDAY WHEN MY BUDDY CRUISED AROUND IN IT... He said it drove great. IT DOES SOUND REALLY HEALTHY WHEN IT WAS RUNNING... It sounds like a 4stroke dirtbike! Has a real throaty sound to it. Unfortunatley I didn't get to drive it around anywhere. The owner says he is willing to work on the price so I figure I should buy it and see if I can fix it myself. For $300-400 I am willing to take the risk. WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK? Sound like an easy fix? maybe clean/disassemble the carb and replace sparkplugs filters - AND DEFINITLEY THE BELTS!