Zoo Mob

Definitely more of a shaking vibration. Any thoughts on which of those mounts to look at first?

Well, I've let this thread sit for quite a while since my wife has been driving the car. After getting behind the wheel a bit again, I'm motivated to get this fixed. Any chance that worn motor mounts could be the cause of my woes?

This is a resurfaced flywheel. I read what people have said about not resurfacing Subaru flywheels, but since it has been checked, and is balanced, what might be the problem there? No vacuum test yet. No leakdown test yet. We've removed the harmonic balancer and checked for separation, but have not inspected it while running if that is what you are suggesting.

Took the flywheel and clutch to another shop to check balance, and they were seemingly ok. The flywheel by itself was only 5g out, and was fixed. With the clutch attached, it was only 2g out, so I'm thinking this is not the issue. Correct me if I'm wrong, but these engines are internally balanced correct? There was a thought that there could be a fault with the pressure plate, but that was not something they could get on their balancer. My friend suggested that bolting that back on in a different orientation might help. Leakdown test has not been completed yet, but we're really freaking stumped here. HELP!

I've got a '98 GT wagon I'd like to swap some heated seats into, did all of the GTs have the under seat harnesses? Will this be a simple plug and play?

Motor is out as we and the professional shop we took it too suspect the flywheel is the cause. A few questions; the flywheel was a from a '98 OB, and this car is a '98 GT any chance we have the wrong flywheel? Could the machine shop have resurfaced it poorly and caused it to be out of balance? How can this be tested, and how would you recommend I proceed?

Well, finally got around to taking the timing cover off and triple-checking that everything was lined up correctly.....it was. Haven't checked the vacuum stuff yet, any other thoughts?

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

Well, spent some time, tried a few things and got nowhere tonight. The crank pulley was removed and checked for separation, there did not seem to be any, but we swapped on another with no apparent effect. Next, visually inspected the plug wires which looked fine, then we turned off the lights and looked for arcing and there was none. Lastly, we swapped the coli pack for another and it made no difference. We did a little experimenting with trying to see where the shake begins and ends; it seems to come on around 1750rpms, is the worst around 2k, and might get a little better towards 3k, it was not revved past 3500 and was still noticeable at that level. This leaves valve shimming as a possibility, but as mentioned, there is no noticeable valve noise present. Injectors also seem a possibility, but as I recall, the shake was not present or at least I did not notice it prior to the auto-manual swap. If we do swap the injectors out, the plan was to swap them two at a time and leave them connected to the rail. Does this seem the right way to do it to you guys? Next time we tackle this, the timing covers will come off for inspection, but my friend who did the work is pretty certain the belt is on correctly. Is there anything else we are missing here that you guys can think of? Also, how would we incorporate a vacuum gauge into the diagnosis as was suggested? Many thanks!

It is a has a manual transmission and will vibrate if the rpms are brought up in neutral while standing still.

I'm pretty sure the crank pulley was properly torqued down and it is not off by a tooth, but I will verify both. The flywheel was resurfaced and it has a brand new clutch. Seems pretty unlikely, but could it have been resurfaced improperly?

Just got my 1998 Legacy 2.5 GT wagon on the road after a auto to manual swap, at the time, heads came off and were resurfaced, all gaskets replaced, new plugs and wires etc. etc. The car runs and shifts pretty well, but I know its just not where it should be. It idles very smooth, but once the car gets past 2000k, it begins to have some vibration issues. The vibration is not that bad, but I've got a friend who has the same car and it much smoother running throughout the powerband. The check engine light is not on. The vibration happens even if the car is not in motion, so any driveline issues can be eliminated. Possible thoughts thus far are: it may need a valve adjustment; there have been some who suggested at 140k it could be necessary, though there is no apparent valve ticking etc. crank pulley is wearing out and could cause the engine to be out of balance motor mounts? Not really sure what else to consider or how to proceed from here, and thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.