sprale
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Posts posted by sprale
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I'll snap a photo pf my buddy's GL. He painted it with black matte paint, plates read "CHALK" and he leaves a bucket of chalk on the hood in the parking lot at work.
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Ok - first - how is the battery and what works/doesn't work on the car right now. Does ANYTHING happen when you turn the key on? I'm assuming that since you were looking for spark that the crank circuit is ok but how are the rest of the accesory circuits?
There is a main feed wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible link box - it supplies one whole side of the box with 12v - so you should have 12v on one side of each of the fusible links. Sounds like the links are ok - 0 means there is no resistance (0 Ohms) and that's as it should be with them.
First we have to determine if the ignition switch is good and if there is voltage to the switch.....
One thing just occured to me - the folks that redid this engine as a carb (bless their wretched soul's) could have wired it in all kinds of funky ways. Perhaps a good picture of the coil area would help me to see what has been done and try to direct you further. We are working with a kludged together system and there won't be a wireing diagram in any book for it. So it's going to be a guess and check sort of deal and although you don't know much about the electrical side of things now..... you will before this is done I suspect.
GD
GD, everything else seems to work properly; lights, radio, starter, windows, mirrors, horn. The fan controls don't seem to work, but I'm not sure if it did originally. I'll take a handful of photos and post them in a bit.
If you would be interested in the correct carb for your car, I have more than a couple layin around, they ran fine when I pulled them, id let one go for $5 plus shipping...-Bill
Bill, I appreciate it. PM on the way.
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Ok - so that would be 12,500 Ohms on the secondary. At the 2K setting you need to test between one of the threaded terminals and down in the coil wire tower (down inside where the wire to the distributor cap connects to the coil).
So with the ignition ON you get no voltage to the coil? That's either a problem with the fusible links, the fuses, or the ignition switch/circuit. Check the fusible links (in the black box on the side the of coolant overflow bottle) - put the DMM on the 2K setting and check that you have continuity on each of the links (with them removed) and then check that their connections are clean and tight. Then check all the cabin fuses. From there we will have to start troubleshooting the ignition circuit....
GD
The fusible links display zero at 2K ohms. All interior fuses are okay.
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Yeah - today is lazy for me. It's my birthday and I think the woman is dragging me out of the house.... I may be leaving shortly so I might not get another reply in. If not maybe someone else can help or I'll be back later. I'll try to check from my phone....
GD
Dude, happy birthday, get out and enjoy it. The Soob will be around to keep me busy. I'll try your suggestions and post back. Until then, enjoy it old man!
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GD, I get nothing testing between the coil and the battery.
Testing the coil I get: @ 20k ohms ~12.50, nothing at 2k ohms
I appreciate you helping out on this. Funny thing, it's raining for days solid after almost 2 months of drought in central TX, radar looks clear up in the NW :/ So I'm working on the Soob instead of riding the motorbike today...
-Levon
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Here's the vacuum advance unit ports. I'll follow your tips, GD, but I need to pick up a few feet of vacuum line first. I appreciate it!
I'm not extremely experienced with electricals (my strengths lie elsewhere), but I can follow directions well. I borrowed a volt meter, what am I looking for?
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Wow.
That, my friend, is sad.
Get a proper EA82 carb at least. Someone on here will probably send you one free as a charity offering.
That carb is too small for that engine and that modified base will not likely hold gaskets well.
Whatever tractor mechanic did that should have his tool-belt taken away.
GD
Great idea! Anyone wanting to donate to the GL fund, send me a PM!
I may actually swap out the carb later.
For now, I'm not getting spark at the coil, so I'm going to swap it out for a spare and see if that works.
I also see two vacuum ports on the disty vacuum advance unit, but they weren't connected when I got the car. I can't tell where they should go from the manual, I'll add a photo later. I think one port may go to the intake manifold. Also, where does the EGR vacuum line end up?
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I'd love to have the extra cash to throw at it, but don't right now. I've seen Webers on eBay and heard lots of good things about them.
The carb is finally back to where it should be, now I need to work on getting spark. I have a spare coil, I may also need a disty cap. It's rainy this weekend, so I'll probably spend some time in the garage with some Shiners.
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Nice one GD. I have a 2000 Infiniti i30t (Maxima sibling) and love it.
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I recently tore the engine down and replaced all the gaskets and a few other parts. Actually, it's been a project with little time dedicated until recently.
It's back together now. I'm just sorting out some electrical issues.
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Here's the carb from below showing the modified base to fit the manifold. Maybe this will give some indication of it's origin.
Here's the holes for the two plugs I forgot to reinstall, done now. Next it's on to the electrical to see why it's getting no spark.
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I've finally sorted out what I did wrong, minor goof. I forgot to put the plugs back on the bottom of the carb, hence the fuel dump...
I'm more excited at the ability to crank it over again after being in parts for so long. I've been feeding fresh fuel into the carb this afternoon with no results, yet. Still no fire (no spark), but I'm working backwards now. Got it on the charger to make up for it when resting.
I'll post some pics of the base of the carb and the intake. The carb is modified to fit.
Thanks again for everyone's input and guidance. I really appreciate it! A second baby (son) due in November means little money or time for the Soob, but I refuse to scrap it. With proper funds, I'd love to turn it into a GL-10, but nothing other than practical work is going to be able to be done to it for a while...
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Reminds me of an article at Jalopnik about a turbo Colt that overpowers its own transmission. The video shows it's clutch making better time than the car!
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And please please for the love of god get some car ramps and ditch the cynder blocks.
I had loaned my ramps out that weekend.
It's in my garage now, just took it off the jack stands. Hopefully it'll be sorted out enough in the near future to be moved under it's own power again.I'll take the carb off and check to see what I missed. This is the first full carb rebuild I've done on a car, I'm generally working on bikes. I don't think it can be mounted 180°, as the alternator is too close. It may be an EA81 intake and carb, but I wouldn't know the difference, this is my first Soob. I'm just happy to have it back together and able to crank over again. Sorting out carb and fuel issues is nothing compared to the work done already.
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This is how I got the car, none of the original FI parts came with it. I have a buddy with a proper FI '88 and know what it should be like, but don't have the money to fit the FI again right now. It's an extra car, so I'm not relying on it either.
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It's been a while, but I finally found time between two jobs and family time to put the Soob back together. The engine went back together well, but the carb took a while to rebuild. There are quite a few wire connectors going nowhere, mostly from the original FI and AC systems.
I'm really happy with how it turned out so far. This is the most intensive tear-down and rebuild I've done on a car. I'm usually working on motorbikes, two wheels is more fun for me.
I'm currently not getting spark, I'll run through the ignition/coil/distributor later. The first issue is that the Hitachi is dumping fuel out the underside. I'll post a photo of that shortly, I can barely see where it's dumping.
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Full disclosure: I don't lift weights. I'm a tech guy. I don't work out at all.
I tried to pull the short block by myself, that hurt a bit.
I was able to rotate the block in the engine bay, allowing access to the oil pan. That ended up being the primary source of the oil leak. The old cork gasket had broken down over time. I guess 20 years is not bad. All the bolts felt barely hand-tight.Having managed to re-mount the engine to the tranny and motor mounts (that's fun!
), I lightly mounted the cylinder heads, I need to find a torque wrench to borrow or rent for tightening the heads down.I keep looking at the various hoses and wires strewn about the engine bay, wondering if I'll remember where they all went before I tore it all apart...
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I dig some of your fixes, made me jump a bit when I realized what I was looking at.
Reminds me of my old Tercel in school. I've been spoiled by vehicles that start, run, AND stop for too many years and am looking forward to getting my '88 GL on the road. -
Anyone around here done any EA to EJ engine swaps? I have an '88 GL with a carb'd EA82 that I'm putting back together. The body is in great shape for its age, so I'll keep it either way. If the engine ends up being less than reliable, I'll probably look at a FI EJ-series engine. I've heard that there's an adapter plate to mount to the EA tranny. Any other major issues to consider? Any completed swaps with long-term impressions?
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Maybe with the heads off I'll try muscling the block out and on to my work bench. It'd be easier to get to there anyway...
I'll let ya'll know if I pull my back instead of the engine! :eek: -
The Soobie does sit much higher in front after some of its bigger bits have fallen out in the garage!
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When I did a motor job by myself I used some pipe staging and a come along!
I'm not sure I understand... I have a come-along, but how did you set up the rigging?
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I don't have a hoist...
Thanks for the tip!
What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by sprale
The entire car is done in black matte chalkboard paint. It gets covered with graffiti daily, washed away when the rain comes. Austin is a fairly creative city, lots of art cars here.