letank
-
Posts
18 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by letank
-
-
Any good shop in San Francisco? Helping my neighbors one more time... but they declined my cheap labor, to replace their water pump on the 85 GL... seems like a no brainer... The local shop could not locate a water pump.... Oreilly's has them....
and another post suggested to get the subaru gasket.
-
Sorry but what that p.i.t.a.factor means??
Pain in the "part that you sit on"
As for the problem, you still need the restriction of the thermostat or the coolant may go too fast.
Otherwise check the temp difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses right after turning off the engine... watch for the running fans...
Does putting the heater to full heat lowers the temp gauge? that will tell you that your coolant system is not up to specs.... it cannot keep the temp steady when the weather is hot, the water pump impellers could be worn out... it happens...
Does running pure water lowers the temp... water is a better coolant than coolant but boils at a lower temp than coolant mix... you can add water wetter to the water.
-
As you said that increased speed delays the overheating, more air more cooling.... this is my guess:
if turning the heater to full heat dropped your temp gauge a tad, I would suspect that the radiator is in need of a rodding... plugged w
tartar built up. You could try a chemical flush with one of those prestone for neglected radiator flush chemicals.We expect your temp gauge to be correct... one of those infrared thermometer should help you... and should show a good 30 to 50 F degrees difference between the upper and lower radiator hose... depending on outside temp.
-
Search and did not find any alternate choice for the recommended NGK : BPR6ES-11
this is what the TSM recommend for the 85GL.
Thank you
-
Congrats. They show up here west from time to time, but check these for yards:
found this as I can never remember the one above
-
1
-
-
here is the 84 GL that I have been toying with, almost original owner, bought it when it had 6 months....
-
We sprayed some seafoam, then put some more in the gas. He drove the car for the last month, and decided to go for a smogcheck.
The NOx has dropped from 2600 to 1200 but still over the 834 threshold. All the other values were dead on for a lambda of 1.005
So I tested the egr and this time, applying vacuum made the engine rpm drop and more vacuum made it stall.... This is so good.... but no vacuum signal from the thermoValve, which is impossible to access, I got a little vaccum when reving past 4000 rpm, but nothing in the 1500rpm of the smog test.
I decided to install a secondary vacuum hose from the thermovalve feed, which is reading vacuum, and added a small restrictor, the EGR gets vacuum as soon as 1500 rpm...
from this port
Replaced some very cooked vacuum hoses, and the PCV valve hose was barely holding due to major cracks... decided to replace it, plugged with carbon deposits, so was the manifold for the PCV hose by the oil filter cap.... no wonder the engine is leaking oil.... I cleaned the other PCV hose as well....
Will post results when the owner comes back.
The old data with only the pipe clean up
NOx dropped from 1196 to 645 at 15 mph and 1800rpm (limit 834)
then 595 to 306 at 25mph and 2900 rpm (limit 706)
CO increased from 0.38 to 0.56 at 15mph, no changes for 25mph. (limit 0.65) so that is a big change to be addressed later.
Here is the printout passing with the EGR hose vacuum upgrade
and the initial Gross Polluter data as this has been viewed quite a lot since the initial post
-
Tried depressing the throttle today before starting and it didn't seem to have any effect.
Gonna check hoses and plugs...etc. but the thing that puzzles me is that it's only for the first start of the day. If i go for a drive and then start her up again, all is well.
the first time of the day....
As said... recheck your choke operation.... flapper too close or too open.
Next:
1) Some dew on electrical, take the distributor cap off, and clean it up.... my civic is terrible for that... one morning no start.... clean the crap inside the cap.... started well, my fuel level is fine.... but first stat is not good.
2) May be the fuel is low in the bowl, fuel drains overnite.
-
IIRC, the carb has an altitude compensation adjuster, that is not automatic, it is done by turning a screw.... Forgot the location.... But lean idle would make it hard to start, and hard to drive, likely to stall as you accelerate from a stop.
Time to check the basics, spark plugs, vacuum leaks....loose connectors...
-
The vacuum pumps may go out at about 350K miles or get cracked at the nozzles. Then you lose lots of suction that helps advance the timing at high rpm. Mine were on the passenger side over the wheel well.
vacuum pump..... hum.
The distributor has vacuum, I tested it, no vac at idle and vacuum starts at some higher rpm.... I was going to add a little vacuum to the EGR valve from this port.... but alas the intake carburetor port to the EGR is blocked.
-
Yeah, got it fixed.
The side pipe was full of carbon and were the manifold passages. Fashioned a brush from a piece of steel cable and a long slender spring (sort of like a pipe snake). Cleaned out the passages and the pipe, engine full out stalled when I manually applied vacuum. A can of the spray Seafoam helps too (the one with the long squirt tube).
You need to double check that the engine doesn't have a side pipe... and probably clean out the manifold passages.
On a side note, I also replaced all of the hoses with new silicone ones when I bought the car. Parts were less than $30. Do one at a time, and follow the vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood, use logic, go slow, you'll be fine.
Thanx, very helful, managed to pull the side pipe which was full of oily carbon deposits, tried to snake and spray the manifold. The owner said that it was never done.... Engine has 191kmiles.
Bought the seafoam, sprayed the manifold.... But still no stall if I move the EGR.... I cover the opening holding the EGR, and the engine cranked up.... So the manifold is really plugged up.
The owner in his seventies said to forget about it, will buy the $50 extension sees if it passes smog...and get a newer vehicle in a few months.... After cashing the $1000 to junk the car, a lot of rust around the windshield and rear window.
Too many hoses to replace.... vacuum and coolant, we patched a few exhaust leaks....the engine is pretty steady, many oil leaks.
Thanx again.... Will update the smog results...
-
Try to find a carburetor repair place... they still exist in major urban area and they will fix the throttle bushings.
In SF we have
but after looking at their prices .... you may try to do it yourself... and find the right reamer and bushing size. Could not find a reamer for import on dabay.
-
Did you fix it?
Reviving the post... same issue, same issue with an 84GL with the 1800cc and hitachi, we have high nox on the 15 mph at 1400 but the 25mph is 650.
No vacuum going to the EGR when you revup the engine at 3000-3500 after 8min.... This is what the manual specs, there is a timer for a 8 min delay.
I applied vacuum to the EGR and no drop in idle...and the plunger moves.... so I did as described, pulled the EGR which was full of crud and oily deposits.... reinstalled and no change.... applying vacuum to the EGR did not changed the idle. This is an 1800cc, there is no side pipe.
I was trying to find an alternate source for ported vacuum to activate the EGR... but this is such a mess of hoses.... most of them are so hard. I suspect that the Thermo valve is not up to specs... but not too sure where is sits... the manual is totally useless...
So if someome has a pict or a detail on that thermovalve... is it the yellow one....
Thanx for my neighbor..... I am helping him....
-
1 quart of lucas oil stabilizer with each oil change will help. I know.
I used something similar w the jeep: Bardahl No smoke.... it took a while to work, it is as thick as honey, and you pour it when the engine is warm, I only put a little.... not the whole 6 oz at a time... only a couple of oz and waited, then added a little after a while.
It used to smoke only after warm startup... lets knock on wood... it is not as bad for now. Engine 199Kmiles, compression is good at 150 on all 8 cylinders.
Michel
-
Fixed, the small shop owner looked at it and fixed both sides for $80. I took a peak at it when the owner returned, so I believe that they managed to extract the broken stud.... and I got a nice bottle of cabernet for the help, which I had to declined... I cannot.
Thanks for the help.
Michel
-
GD, thanks for the reply, it seems clearer now.
Michel
84 GL
74 wagoneer
-
The stud on the exhaust manifold by the head is MIA and so are the threads.....It was probably helicoil at some point.
Looking at the part it seems like an intermediate piece that is bolted to the head, am I correct, can you get this part from Subaru? I looked at all the online catalog that are listed on this forum, but none make even a mention of that part.
I found this pict of the EA82 here (I have the EA81) but it looks similar:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SubaruEA82.jpg
so the question will be can the parts at the exhaust manifold is a removable part, here they are still attached.
Thank you
Michel
84GL
PS: realized that it is my first post.... while I registered first in 08..... I guess I found most of the infos using the search function.
A Network of Subie Mechanics...
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Well he is 30 miles away.... the water pump will not hold that long...