SoobrDad02
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Posts posted by SoobrDad02
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Hey everyone, I just wanted to find out if I could use a '99 4EAT n/a transmission to replace the currently non-working one in my '91 4EAT n/a transmission. I need to know if it'll be a direct bolt-up, or if I'll need additional parts to make it work. I don't know the gear ratio on the '99 yet and wanted to know if this would be a plausible swap. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, THANKS!!!
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I've re-pulled the engine, re-seated the torque converter and put her all back together. Only thing is when I start her up and put her in gear, she goes nowhere. I give her gas and the engine just spins, no engagement of gears at all. I'm guessing that I toasted the transmission when I bolted the engine to the transmission the first time with the torque converter incorrectly seated. Grrrrr.....
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Well, here's the latest... I pulled the first flexplate-to-torque converter bolt and managed to muscle the crank enough (with the help of a breaker-bar) to remove the remaining bolts. Now that it's un-bolted I can turn the crank easily (it seems to encounter one "tight spot" at the end of a rotation). So does this mean that it was an un-seated torque converter all along, and if it was, will I be able to pull the engine again, re-seat the torque converter and put it all back together without worry?
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Which Richmond are you in? I am in Richmond Va and could possibly come over and take a look if that is where you are.
Hey Doc!!! It's Thomas. This thing's killin' me. I'm looking at pulling the engine again and re-seating the torque converter, and if after that the engine still won't turn I'll DEFINITELY be taking you up on that!!!!!
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I did bolt the flex-plate to the torque-converter after bolting the bell-housing to the transmission, it did seem to be a difficult last 1/8th or so of a turn to get to the last bolt-hole.
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In order to re-pull the motor to check on the torque converter, I'll have to get out the bolts that link it to the flex-plate. Issue is though, I can't get it to turn clockwise by hand(or breaker-bar) to allow me to access the bolts! What the heck can I do?
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Wanted to ask the pro's on this board for some advice before I decide to set my car on fire... I drive a 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon 2.2 n/a 4EAT, and I just pulled the engine, replaced the flexplate, and re-installed everything only to find that when I try to start it all it does is "click" audibly once and then nothing. I've put a breaker bar on the crank and tried to turn it manually and I can't get it to budge in the least. I pulled all 4 spark plugs and tried again to turn it over manually, and still...nothing. I'm not too sure where to go from here and I don't want to get frustrated and mess anything up anymore than I may have already. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Installed a NEW OEM Coolant Temp Sensor...no change.
Picked up 2 j/y IACV's today, installed the first one and took it for a test drive...no change. I got back to the house and tried pulling codes and found nothing either by using the green connectors or d-check mode. I unhooked the battery before calling it a night in the hopes that re-setting the system will magically fix everything. in the case that it doesn't though, I'll install the other one and see how it goes. I have spare MAF's sitting around and I'll try installing one of those as well. I DO want to know though, if I install the sensor that sits in the intake, do I also replace the unit that the wires run to that's attached to the fender? Also, what's the recommended technique for cleaning a used IACV? This car's gonna be the end of me... 
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Just updating... Spent some time(and an ENTIRE can of carb cleaner) looking for the vacuum leak the other day and still couldn't find anything. Removed the airbox/intake tube assembly to allow for further visual inspection of vacuum lines and couldn't see diddly. I am also experiencing a very random/rare issue with the throttle. While attempting to pass in traffic the other day, I found out that she'd get to 3,000-3,500 RPM's and then just kind of top out without gaining any speed. ideas as to what could be causing this? I'm thinking that they're connected, but not sure... :-\
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More to do here in hust a few hours. I'll keep everyone posted.
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I'll swap in a new CTS tomorrow, and do some snooping around the intake as well and I'll post up whatever I may find.
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I r&r'd the intake a while back but didn't have any issues until recently. As for the CTS, I replaced it with a used one I had lying around.
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I'll try the carb cleaner, and as for water in the tank, I did think of that and have added some of the "super" HEET gas treatment at my last two fill-ups to no avail. As an aside, I do want to say thanks for all of the great advice I've gotten on this forum, everyone here has proven EXTREMELY helpful whenever I've posted with a question/problem, so THANKS EVERYONE!!!
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Here's my idea... If I have a leak somewhere in the general area of the intake that's allowing an excess of air IN, would it be possible to "smoke-test" it using a fog-machine to flood the general area and a timing-light to see where the excess is being pulled in?
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Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice pertaining to the issue I'm dealing with in regard to my n/a '91 4EAT Legacy wagon. She starts up and runs fine for about 15-20 minutes, and then she warms up and (when stopped) the idle starts dropping from the standard 750 rpm's to 500 rpm's, and, if given the chance, she'll sputter out and eventually die unless I give it some gas:(. I'm not getting any CEL's and I've swapped out the Coolant Temperature Sensor and did my best to check for vacuum leaks:banghead:. Does anyone have any ideas on wha could be causing this:confused:?
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If you can let it idle in park and get a whiff of the smoke, you'll be able to tell if it's coolant by the slightly sweet smell.
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Holy poop! If that poor Legacy could've been able to turn to avoid the giant that stepped on it and squished it:rolleyes:...hee hee. I like the 1st gen's ridin' low, but DAMN!!! Keep us updated on the build!!!
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BUY IT!!! I got my '91 Legacy wagon after her previous owner had given up on her and dropped her (and her title) off at my old shop after being diagnosed as a candidate for an engine replacement (not a single drop came out when I pulled that drain-plug). not knowing a thing about Subie's, I got her back on the road (hooray for pull-and-pay's) and she's my DD now. A Haynes & Chilton manual in addition to forums like this and legacycentral will give you pretty much all the help a guy could ask for. Now go get that car!
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Great posts everyone! Can this count as my "something new learned every day" for today? Seriously though, everyone on this board is a huge help, whether it's because they've asked the right questions or because they've given the right answers, this board is immensely helpful! Thanks everyone!
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Finally got the chance to swap in the injector rail from last week's junkyard adventure (#'s 2 & 4) today, and it's only made things worse. After swapping out the old rail for the new rail, I can't keep the car running for more than 30-45 seconds before it shudders and dies. I'll turn the key, and for some reason the tach(4EAT) will climb all the way up to about 1750 before dropping to zero and shutting off. Pulled the codes and I'm getting #13, #15 and #17. So now it's BOTH injectors #2 AND #4 along with the cam sensor! I also noticed that with the car completely OFF that if I manually open the butterfly valve in the throttle, the starter seems to be making a humming sound
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I thought that was what those might be. Any other oversights worth mentioning in those two manuals?
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While dealing with the crazy injector issue I've currently got going on, I've came across another perplexing issue...finding my ECU! I have both a Haynes and a Chilton's manual and both insist that my ECU is under the carpet on my front passenger-side footwell, but I'm not seeing anything. Ideas?
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Sounds like after the junkyard tomorrow morning, the multimeter and I have a date with the wagon. Gotta love cold, rainy days with no garage!
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As far as wiring goes, it was the harness mounted under the intake plenum that was replaced. How exactly do I check to see if the injector wire has made contact with the body?
Noob Ques. re: removing engine 95 legacy 2.2/auto - The flex plate & torque conv.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS HOLY, YOU ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY MUST MAKE SURE THAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS SEATED!!!!
I've got a first generation Legacy wagon holding down the driveway currently because I have yet to locate a transmission with decent mileage to replace the one that was destroyed when I didn't ensure that my torque converter was re-seated before final install. 