zedhead
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Posts posted by zedhead
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Well, if the pump was damaged, there's no real way of telling until the engine is started. I suppose you could pull the tranny and inspect things. But, your prolly better off just bolting it back together and testing.
I'd install the shafts, and then align the cogs on the TC to the shaft.
It might take quite a bit of figiting to get everything aligned, and seated properly. The TC should be behind the mating surface of the trans/eng 1/8-/1/4" You can use a straight edge across the trans mouting surface to check.
Climb into the engine compartment and sit on the crossmember to get every thing aligned.
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I sure hope that your not working outside, in Wi.? Brrr.. If you are, add 2 hrs for Warming Hands!
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How many miles? Is the input shaft worn where the seal rides?
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Lets hope that the wrist pin didn't score/ ruin the liner!
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FWIW, buying a bottle of heet for every tank is a waste of money.
In the first place, all that Heet is, is Isopropal Alchohol. You could go to walmart and buy a quart of it for about the same price as a pint of heet. Add one or two cap fulls to a tank would be just as effective as a bottle of heet.
Secondly, You should not need any heet/alcohol in your fuel. The refineries have already included it in your fuel. The winter blended fuel is so full of additives, that it effects mileage. If you buy your fuel from a high volume station. You should never have a problem with water in your fuel.
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I feel that history has shown in these as well as rear main seals on Subarus that they are far more prone to leak when replaced. They don't usually wear out.
As far as the torque converter, - take a small tape measure to the back of the starter opening and measure the space between the TC and bellhousing of the trans. You should be at about 1/8 of an inch. And to put everything together the TC will move slightly forward as mentioned.
Sure, they wear out. Also, these are extenuated circumstances. $5.00 is cheap insurance for doing a job twice.
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I'd replace the tranny front seal.
$5.00 seal vs pulling it all apart again if it leaks???
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Both of my Suby's run with the guage showing half way.
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As far as the wheel bearing goes. I usually remove the knuckle/hub at home. Then take it somewhere that has a hydaulic press (and knows how to use it) have them press the old out/new in. IIRC, around $50 per
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It will fit. There are a couple of minor differences. The horns on the later hood are a little shorter, and the windshield washer squirters are a little closer together. Nothing that most people would even notice.
So, Yes. I'd say the rad support is off. Around $60 for a new one. You'd need a spot weld remover, and a welder to attach it.
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Fuel additives are a muilti million dollar scam.
You can use them, but show Me a study that conclusively shows any improvement in a properly maintained engine.
There are already so many cleaning agents in the fuel You buy.... more is not always better.
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A Drive Shaft is a tricky thing to get rebuilt properly. I bought one from a local rebuild shop, and it was a POS. Vibrated from the get go.
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Weird, over on the other site it says Suby, and Honda are the top resale autos
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208K Miles on my 2.5. HG's Done @ 200K
It'll prolly go for another 75-100K miles. Perfectly acceptable Duty Life if You ask Me.
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You Guys are funny.
With thousands of EJ25's out there with updated HG's. VERY FEW have failed again.
When the HG's are done properly, they'll out last the rest of the car/engine.
IMO the prob stems from FHI using a coated metal gasket.
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I've been contemplating this mod for a while. But I think I'll use the factory relays. They're already wired in. Just need to rewire them with 14 ga wire, or better.
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If the TC is not seated properly, damage to the pump is possible.
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What bothers Me about Subie is that the new OB has fallen into Toyota's clutches. Toyota is the biggest shareholder in FHI, with a 16.55 percent stake.
Teh New OB has been Camryized! Generic styling, inside and out. Crappy CVT Transmission to give You that nice Null Feeling.
My Wife can't drive a stick, and I'll NEVER buy a CVT.
It's only going to get worse, before it ever gets better.
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Generous application of Kroil got My 200K mile Exhaust Nuts to turn freely.
If You get to the poing of galling the heads, You might want to try a Nut Breaker. It's a small tool that will split the nut, available at most tool vendors.
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I paid a local shop $385 for machining heads, valves ground (1 bent valve replaced), lash set.
Check with the local car clubs. They'll have the low down on good shops.
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How can You condemn an engine so quickly?? There's no proof of internal damage. Just the possibility.
Personally, I'd take the bill to the shop, and as stated, go over it with the Owner. They have failed to complete Their end of the deal.
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windshield wiper issue
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Worn bushings?