soccer13wv
-
Posts
3 -
Joined
-
Last visited
soccer13wv's Achievements
Newbie (1/11)
0
Reputation
-
Had a similar issue recently with my Forester. This is just a possibility, but it's simple to rule out. There is a little flange on the back of the starter that a connection slides over to allow the engine to start. On your car because it's a manual it's connected to the clutch pedal. If that is not connected then the ECU assumes that clutch pedal is not depressed and will not allow the car to start. On an automatic it's connected to the neutral safety switch on the transmission. It will immobilize the vehicle if not connected. Best of luck.
-
I installed a 2003 Legacy L transmission into my 97, I should have pointed that out previously, my apologizes.
A separate question. Once I installed the newer transmission, i feel like the revs are considerably higher then before. Is there any reason for this?
Thanks for all the help.
Rick
-
The "linkage" consists of the part you mentioned - the "yoke" that bolts to the transmission - as well as another similar yoke inside the cabin that attaches the rod you noted to the actual shifter. Both of those unions have bushings on either side of the "inside" tube that the bolt goes through. There is also a ball and socket inside the cabin as well as front and rear mounts for the whole mess..... the front "knuckle" that is pinned to the transmission shift rod can either be bolted together or can be riveted starting sometime in '96 or '97 I beleive. The riveted versions often fail and cannot be serviced.
Rick
-
I am not overly familar with everything. i just did my first engine and transmission swap in the last month. So still got a lot of learning to do. I just need to understand what exactly I need to look for in the shifter linkage. That is also assuming that I understand the linkage to be the u shaped piece of metal connected to the shifter near the bottom and exiting the bottom shifter boot at an angle towards the front of the vehicle. Thanks for the help a head of time.
Rick
-
Syncro problems are usually related to grinding when shifting, etc. If it's not staying in a gear then you may have lost one or more of the three spring loaded keepers that maintain the syncro posistion - unfortunately no amount of expensive gear oil will help with that. It could be something wrong with your shifter linkage also - I would check all your bushings, etc. Slop in them might be causing you to not get it into gear far enough.
The clutch cable would not be related. The gear selection is entirely internal except for the linkage rod that goes to the shifter.
Rick
-
Hey I am a friend of Gary Gross's and he said you might be able to answer a question about a 5mt problem I have. I just installed a used 5mt into my legacy and it is slipping out of 4th gear after shifting from 3rd. Once I try again it will stay in 4th it seems. I assume this is a the start of a synchro problem. Do you think switching to red line gear oil will fix this problem? Also, is it possible that when I re-installed the clutch cable that it's too tight/not tight enough and causing this problem?
Thanks,
Rick
-
Thanks for the input. I appreciate the clarification as to which was "in" & "out". I failed to mention what my car was in the original post. I have a 97 legacy L with a 2.2 and 5 speed. The noise is being made when the clutch is not depressed, does any of this information change any input? My car has 165k miles on it.
-
About 2 weeks ago I started noticing a sound when I started the car up. It seems to have gotten a little worse but not much. It makes the noise when I am driving but it is harder to hear over the engine and tire noise. While idling the car only makes the noise if the clutch is out. As soon as I engage the clutch the noise stops. It is a continual but cyclical noise. I am looking for some help in diagnosing the problem and how soon it is going to need to be fixed. Thanks, Rick
