terronj

I'm having a speed shop modify the eccentric shaft so that it only has one rotor journal and moving the front key-way to the other side. Then hardening and balancing and bolting it together with one rotor. Port both the primarys (because all it has are primary intake ports) Custom intake manifold and exhaust, tiny turbo, inter-cooler, Mega Squirt fuel injection and to handle the ignition and maybe the metering pump, adapter plate, oil cooler, custom motor mounts. I still haven't sorted out the clutch yet. And then you get a single rotor 13b Subaru, or Rutaru, with 650cc's of furry.

No I plan to keep the hi-lo 4wd. I was only concerned about the drivability of the high revving single rotor. Also people around here always say that the 5spd is better than the 4spd but I never hear them say why? Is it just that drivability, or is it mechanically superior in some way? And the oil cooler is on the way.

So I'm in the middle of mating a single rotor 13b Mazda to my 84 hatchback. I'm shooting for 150 hp from the modified 650cc engine when its all said and done. However I'm concerned that I may suffer in the low end torque department and it probably won't start to pickup until higher rpms. My synchros are shot in third in the 4spd that's in it right now so the transmission has to go anyway. So my question is this, taking into account that I have a lot going on with the engine build, is it worth it for me to put a 5spd in my car? What would be required? And what kind of car does the 5spd come out of?

Actually it would be awesome if you could do that. Thanks a million.

Ok thanks.

Hi, looking for help. I have an 84 gl hatchback, and I was wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram for the horn/hazards/clock circuit? It keeps blowing the fuse and even without the fuse the left turn indicator and the voltage indicator are all over the place. I'm pretty sure I have a short but I can't find it. Is it possible for the turn signal clicker to short out inside of itself? Thanks.

I'm sorry for ever doubting you guys. I just opened up the air suction valve and it's toast. Melted the silencer, plastic in my intake and everything. Crap.

I know you guys have horror stories of them going out but why would I want to disable them? Shouldn't I want them functioning so that they can add oxygen to the exhaust? I thought you needed them for the catalytic converter to function correctly? Otherwise I still get the bang bang every time I shift, right?

OK Thanks.

I just found a picture of it. Some one was asking the same question. But I still need to know if I should check the Air Suction Valves. Thanks Again.

My main goal is to eliminate the backfire I'm getting when shifting. It sounds like its just a feature of these cars but I need it to go away because I'm planning a trip to the sand dunes and I don't want to explain to the ranger why I burned down half the surrounding forest. Anyway are you saying that there isn't an Anti-Backfire Valve on my car or are you saying that I should be looking at the Air Injection System and the Air Suction Valves? Thanks for the help.

I have an 84 hatch. I'm looking for the anti-afterburning valve, anti-backfire valve, or the aav what ever it's called. I can't find it. Can someone snap a picture please.