hicketts

finally got it off, it took an even bigger BFH, a 3lb sledge. The new ones do have the threaded holes, I just guess the old ones didn't. I got them all put pack to together, with new front and rear rotor and pads. Then took it for a test drive runs great every thing is working, there is only a slight "wobble" from the tires sitting half flat for 10 months.

1996 OBW rear rotor Just bought a none running 1996 OBW 176,000 for $500 !!!!! Had it running smooth after 2 hours and a lot of previous knowledge. She had all the receipts including full HG job with all the extras 2 years and 25,000 mile ago. Now I am doing rear rotors, I have done them on my 99 OB SUS, and I know they can be a real bear to get off. However the parts store actually asked for a build date (9-95), and I cant tell if they come off the same way. The originals do not have the threaded holes for removal and even after scraping I still can't see the parting line between the hub and rotor. What are the differences in the early years. YES I checked No parking break is not on Penetrating oil BFH ++++

If you have at least some tools the knock sensor and exhaust gaskets should be easy, there are some good threads on here about the knock sensor replacement. It will take may be 20 minutes and a small socket with an extension, and cost from 75-100 for the part. It's really just a small microphone that listens for detention from the motor. It can actually make you motor start to run hot by retarding the timing. If you are not hearing an exhaust leak I dont know about replacing them to start off. If you get under the front of your car wear the front license plate is you can see the two exuast pipes coming down. Each side has three bolts, between them and the engine block are the gaskets. To just replace "exhaust manifold gaskets" should take 15 minutes, and no where near $437. Now if it were a GM 3.1 V6 that would be an okay price but for the simplicity of the Suby it's unfair.

It's a DOHC so I will have to the valve adjustment/shim my self with the cams in. What about resealing the oil pump, I've read to check the screws in the back but what about resealing it.

I had the dreaded head gasket failure and right now it's apart in the garage with heads out getting machined. While it's apart what else should I attend to on the the block. I am already doing the timing belt, idlers, oil plate, water pump, and full gasket kit. I am just looking for any one's opoinon what they would do.