daddycoolj
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Posts posted by daddycoolj
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Try rocking the car back and forth a bunch of times, then try popping it out of gear.
You can also try popping the clutch out with it running while pushing against the shifter.
If you can't get the car to move ANY at all it's because the parking brake is stuck. Sometimes the cables freeze if they get moisture in them.
Even with it in gear, the car should roll back and forth a little bit if the brake is off.
It's not easy for a transmission to get stuck in two gears at the same time. The linkage inside is designed to prevent that, so it's unlikely for it to happen.
Once I got some help, we were able to move the car uphill a few inches, and relieve the pressure to get it out of gear.it's all good now.
I'm still puzzled as to why it wouldn't roll when the clutch wasn't engaged.
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It was below freezing, and yes I tried it once it warmed up. Still no luck. I haven't tried turning the crank. I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks
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That could be. I was scrambling to get to work ,so i haven,t been under the car.
I don't get why the car wont move.
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Shifter won't budge though. Maybe linkage is binding?
That could be. I was scrambling to get to work ,so i haven,t been under the car.
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Does the clutch have pressure? What happens if you try to double clutch and move the shifter with the car off?
The clutch has pressure. I tried to move the shifter with the car running, and not.
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I have a 2002 Forester that I drove home and parked last night, with no issues. This morning I got in, started it up, let off the parking brake, pushed in the clutch to roll down the driveway, and it wouldn't move. I then put it reverse, let out the clutch, and it stalled. I started it back up and tried again,and got the same result. Now it is stuck in reverse. The shifter won't budge.
Does anyone have an idea what to do?
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OK, I need some opinions.
I'm replacing the clutch in a 2002 forester. Is it easier to pull the engine, or take out the transmission.
I've done clutches 3 times on my previous subarus,and I'm not excited about taking out another transmission in a gravel driveway.
What do you guys think?
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't95 OBW when it's been sitting for a few hours, get in put it in D and take off it will not shift out of 1st. Drive about a mile and it will finally shift into 2nd. Another mile or so and so on it will eventually shift through all. When it dosen't shift and I let off the gas it coasts like in neutral until it slows then it will pull again.
I had a similar experience when a speedo drive broke on another car. sppedo works here though. I am thinking VSS at the trans.
how can I check for that?
304,000 miles
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Turned on the ac, still nothing.
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I have a 95 obw. I need to locate the fuse and relay for the radiator fans. one fan was working a few days ago now both have stopped.
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95 legacy.On cold starts the power steering pump whines and dosen't provide much turning assistance. It stops after minute or so, then all is well. fluid level is good, no belt squeal,and I can't find any leaks.
Think the pump has heard the 2 minute warning or is there a magic way to flush the system?
Maybe a rack problem?
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I've had a coolant temperature sensor that was about to fail cause similar problems.
I unhooked the connector at the sensor. This puts the sensor in default so the ecu thinks the engine is hot. I drove around for the day with no problems.
I plugged the connector back up and the sputtering resumed.
sensor was $23
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I have a good known good pump if you are interested. I can have it cleaned and boxed up and to you over the weekend. I know new ones are fairly expensive.
Thanks, I had to bite the bullet and buy a new one to get back on the road today.
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Good deal. Keep us posted on how it turns out.
Got a new pump and it's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the pointers boys.
Joe
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I have realized power to the pump plug by following expert advice.
Thanks again. I'll get a new pump and hope for the best.
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When you tested for voltage on the plug going to the pump, were the green connectors still connected?
The ECU only energizes the fuel pump relay for about 2-3 seconds to pressure up the fuel system, and then turns off until the engine actually starts.
With the green diagnostic connectors connected, the ECU will cycle the relay and you should see 12v going on and off at the plug near the fuel pump.
If you still don't see any voltage, I would then try and track down the fuel pump relay and check it.
Duh, I didn't think about the relay function, I'll go out and check it again. I'm fighting 4 vehicles at once, so frustration is winning right now. Be back in a few. Thanks for the help.
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I hooked up the green connectors and turned on the switch but I can't tell which relay is clicking, but i didn't hear any activity near the fuel pump. I found 2 black with gray dots wires hanging near the green plugs with spade ends that looked like they were pulled out of a plug but couldn't figure out where after looking at connections and counting wires.
I removed the fuel pump and hooked up jump wires to the terminals on the pump motor..........nothing.
Then turned on the ign switch and checked the plug at the pump for power at the heavier gauge wires that go to the pump motor. I got zero. I did get 12 volts at the wires that go to the sending unit.
Now what?
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This is a 95 OBW ej22. Got in, turned the key, started right up then died. After that nothing.
I sprayed starter fluid in it and it would run for a few seconds.
Took off the fuel line at the filter and turned on the switch and nothing comes out.
Which wires are hot and ground in the plug at the fuel pump
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Has anyone given any thought to converting a regular run of the mill gas burner to run on the E85 fuel?
I have this fuel available in my area, so I experiment with it in both my legacys with ej22s. I have tried a lot of different mixtures of straight gas and E85. A mixture of 6 gallons of gas (87 octane) and 5 gallons of E85 works best. The octane for alcohol fuel is around 105, so mixing with the gas is a nice boost to stop the pinging I get with low octane gas at a 30 cent savings per gallon at the pump.
It would be nice to have a flex fuel vehicle conversion, possibly to straight alcohol.
Just trying to find someone else interested.
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Since the obd readers for anything older than a 96 seem to be non-existant, is there a way to extract the cel codes without one?
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sounds like you burped it right, but i'd do it twice just to make sure.
multiple overheats? was it limped home, shut off immediately when running hot, coolant added, run hot for a couple times before being fixed?
if any of that is the case then it sounds like the 20 year old headgaskets took a beating and are returning the favor.
personally i'd just keep adding coolant and make sure it's not leaking somewhere simple. heater core hose, heater core, bypass hoses...?? nice to make sure before concluding the worst.
I ran a flush thru and filled up with straight water. I then drove around with the thermostat out, drained off a sample of radiator juice into a clean jar and gave it the smell test. I got a second opinion from my daughter, smells like exhaust. So, as they used to say in France " Off with her heads."
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I put the passenger front wheel about 6 inches higher than the rest, opened the bleed screw and filled thru the rad cap until no bubbles out of the bleed hole. this worked out on the last rad replacement that I did on a 90.
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Everything was going well until 3 weeks ago. Engine overheated checked and found low coolant level, topped it off, temp back to normal, drove home. Inspected and found drips from water pump. Replaced water pump, thermostat, and timing belt.
Good for 2 days then same issue, low coolant, overheating. replaced rad cap, then found crack in rad tank. Got brand new radiator.
Good for 2 more days, same thing, found hole in top rad hose. Replaced and tried again.
Next day drove about 10 miles, hot again. Pressure tested system. Results were no leaking for about 2 minutes under pressure (14 lbs).
Coolant still disappears and I can't find a leak anywhere. Now, I'm thinking the dreaded blown head gasket. No water in the oil or white smoke or any of the other normal symptoms.
I've read about a hydrocarbon test for coolant but am clueless about what the official term for it is to search for. This is beginning to cut into my nap time.
What say ye?
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I had a similar problem with a door speaker. We found it by banging on the door panel open handed.
Turned out to be a loose negative wire on the speaker terminal.
Also check to see if the speaker frame is firmly attached-grounded to the metal door panel
As a preventative measure we hot glued the wires to the door a few inches from the speaker to keep them from flopping around.
stuck in reverse
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Once I got some help, we were able to move the car uphill a few inches,
and relieve the pressure to get it out of gear.it's all good now.
I'm still puzzled as to why it wouldn't roll when the clutch wasn't engaged